What are your favorite warm-ups to do before hopping on your project??

@Connordrs1123

3 жыл бұрын

Doing one hamstring stretch, immediately hopping on the project, getting hurt, realizing I need to actually warm up, and then warming up😂

@christophedurand811

3 жыл бұрын

After watching your video I will incorporate it into my warmup. My warmup is : 2 x ( jumping jacks + tendon glides (but I didn't know about doing it with force) + pushups). Then about 30-60 minutes of climbing from V0-VProject(6). So I usually do 10-20 V0-V3, 3-6V4, then work on projects V5-6-7 (starting with big holds). I feel that if I don't do that, I'm not warmed up enough. Do you think I'm overdoing it?

@HoopersBeta

3 жыл бұрын

If you feel like that's what your body needs to be totally warmed up, that's OK. BUT, it does seem like you're doing quite a bit to work up to your projects. I would just be worried about being fatigued by the time you are ready to put in a higher level of effort. I would consider reducing some of the V0-V3. But, your body is the ultimate boss and has the final say. If you need that longer warm up, take it.

@kardnails8729

3 жыл бұрын

@@HoopersBeta I read somewhere that you need about 120 holds to properly warm up, which is either 3 easy routes, or a dozen easy boulder problems. What are your thoughts?

@LuxionPierce

2 жыл бұрын

I love to use the rubber finger exercise bands before climbing. It really warms up the complimentary forearm muscles and finger muscles. I have a set with 4 different resistances and just use level 1 and then go to level 2. P.S. I love your videos! As a scientist, I greatly appreciate the scientific perspective. Thank you!

Hot diggity dang, I've been looking for this type of content for quite some time and have somehow missed your channel. Saw the first couple of episodes just now before you posted this and appreciate your approach towards discussing these subjects. I feel I've consumed endless amounts of subjective "hey I tried this it totally works" - kind of mumbo jumbo content and have been desperately searching for consistent scientific stuff such as the stuff you peeps post so thanks for this :) I'll just go back to binching more of them now

@HoopersBeta

3 жыл бұрын

It took me a minute and then I was like, "wait, I know this guy, I've watched a bunch of his videos!" haha. Thanks for the kind words and glad you've found the videos helpful :)) - Emile

I feel immediately stronger whenever Jason winks into the camera!

@HoopersBeta

3 жыл бұрын

Stay tuned for tomorrow's episode. *spoiler* I wink again.

Sir Dr Hooper 😉, I just discovered your channel today and it is incredible, thanks to KZread's recommendation algorithm!

@HoopersBeta

3 жыл бұрын

😅 haha this is great. Welcome to the channel!

I feel like your guy's videos are too well made for the amount of subscribers. I love it

@HoopersBeta

3 жыл бұрын

Haha thanks! I think that’s better than the other way around 😉

quite possibly the best climbing informational videos out there. Much love for y'all

This video is so incredibly helpful!! For sure incorporating this warm up into my next session.

Thanks, Dr. Hooper. That´s important advice!

Excellent video, great information! Cheers

Every single video on this channel is pure gold!

I've been using this warm-up for just over a month and it has helped so much with my performance and with injury prevention. I used to never warm up but now I actually quite enjoy going through this routine due to how much better I climb when I've done it. Keep up the great videos!!

@HoopersBeta

2 жыл бұрын

That's awesome to hear!! Thank you for sharing. Stoked that it has been helpful in your performance and prevention!

Cool!! always great videos from you man! keep it up!

This video deserves 10x more likes!! Thanks for making this!

Really good video ! Hope you'll have more views soon !

Incredibly informative video as always 💪

Excellent content, brilliant channel!

Thank you so much for this informative video! Coming from a dance background I only knew how to do warm up related to that but since switching to climbing, I've had no clue! Can't wait to try this out at the gym ☺️

@HoopersBeta

3 жыл бұрын

Awesome! Hope it helps you!!

I've been enjoying some of your new content and I'm glad to find this older stuff to. The Jay and Silent Bob cuts were top notch and the data is awesome to have as well. Thanks for what you do!

@HoopersBeta

2 ай бұрын

Thank you for the kind words and for watching the new & old! It's fun sometimes to see the progression of our video process from the OG videos to now.

Thanks for the video. Great advice! I like bodyweight cossack squats for warming up the lower body.

The quality = chef's kiss

I love this routine. Can we get a cool down video?

¿How can this channel have so few subscribers? I´ve just started climbing recently and this has so much to offer!! I love it!! Very well explained, nicely put together and extremely important stuff!! I hope to learn a lot from you guys (hopefully avoid stupid injuries) and watch this channel grow!!

@HoopersBeta

3 жыл бұрын

We love all those things! Welcome to the channel and hope you continue to find it useful!

Helping Tower hands now too not just the rock climbing community. I’m a big guy and your videos are really helpful especially climbing in these negative temps! Stay 100 y’all!

@HoopersBeta

2 жыл бұрын

That's awesome! Happy to hear that our videos were able to help. Stay safe in those temps!

Great topic. Thank you

That intro was amazing! 😂

This warm up is legit!

Thats literally my exact warmup! I find a natural feature to hangboard off of, after the band work. I tend to do the tendon glides regular too.

@HoopersBeta

2 жыл бұрын

Sounds like you have it dialed in!

This is great, thank you!

@HoopersBeta

3 жыл бұрын

You're very welcome!

Shoulder dislocates are amazing for shoulder, rotator cuff, etc. you should already have the band in your approach bag so why not

Excellent stuff! I wonder if you also have thought of a good routine to do AFTER or at the tail end of a solid climbing session? How soon after should stretching or deep tissue massage be done?

Hi Dr Hooper! Just discovered your channel and absolutely loving it! Question: I often encounter pain in the inside of my thumb when hangboarding or hanging on small holds (when my thumb gets tucked inside my hand). Any recommendation on how to warm up/exercise to avoid this?

thanks bro. please more content!

@HoopersBeta

3 жыл бұрын

Always at work so more content on the way :)

Great video. I love science backed exercises... makes it a bit easier to convince people to do them.. and by people I mean my girlfriend who hates warming up.. but is glad I'm doing the drill sergeant's job.. 😎

@HoopersBeta

3 жыл бұрын

haha, yeah! Happy to help ;)

My must have for stretching is my hips! I feel lots of climbers often overlook opening and stretching hips. The shoulders and the hips are the most important joints to maneuvering your center mass. For me, I like to use lots of acrobatic-like movements to climb. (high feet, splits, heel hooks, extreme drop knees, kicks) May not be the case for others, but lots of injuries from that region if I don't stretch it.

@HoopersBeta

3 жыл бұрын

Hips are super important! Being able to use your legs effectively is crucial to climbing better. Mobility and stability are both important in avoiding injuries :)

Question @hooper's beta: Can you comment on why you do the recruitment pulls full force from the beginning? Most warmup suggestion focus very much on slowly increasing the load. To your question on what our favorite warmup is: I always warmup by moving every joint in it's whole range of motion, before going to muscle or any meaningful load. Just to prepare cartilage. Thanks a lot for the valuable videos, a true fanboy.

Especially if you're climbing in a gym on more modern style problems, I would recommend doing a full body warmup. Including neck, sides, hips. I've had it happen plenty of times where I'm in a horizontal position and my lower leg slips, ending up pulling my side muscles.

@HoopersBeta

3 жыл бұрын

Absolutely. A good warm up is super helpful. glad you're taking the time to do yours!

Thanks 👍

@HoopersBeta

2 жыл бұрын

Welcome 👍

Laughed and subscribed for JSB reference, will donate for isolated clip of that please!

I'm a PTA who appreciates getting the info to add to my knowledge base. My work considers me a "climbing expert" just because I've taken course work and have climbed for a few years. I saw you in that article about climbing in ... Inside PT ? I can't remember. But the article was disappointing- why was it teaching what trad climbing means but not showing a crimp or a gaston or anything technical/ kines related! Would have been more useful for non climbing therapists IMO. Appreciate the content and I should watch it all repeatedly. Thank you, and the humor is subtle and on point!

This one has the sassiest science hahaha. Nice 3 warm up picks, my tendons thank you

oh sick I have that same lamp

💚💚💚

Loving the jay and silent bob inserts

yeah science!

Hi Hooper! Loving the videos. I have a question regarding tendon gliding. Doing the last one for the third row (with the L-shape) I feel some uncomfort/pain at the inside base of my index finger. Also felt some paint when perhaps holding a wooden spoon that puts requires me to bend my fingers around and puts pressure on that inside base. Do you have any suggestions what could be the case for this uncomfort/pain? And what can I do to make it better? Thanks for all the helpful tips!

@Zeptinn

3 жыл бұрын

I should add that I feel it mostly when I try to do it with some force, whilst keeping the L-shape

@julianisface

7 ай бұрын

A2 pulley strain that's how it feels for me when I'm dealing with one.

No monies are money. Definitely love the motor neuron recruitment to loading the tissue.

@HoopersBeta

Жыл бұрын

Hah that's a great way of putting it :)

Great, now I will have to watch Dogma for the umteenth time. Thank you :).

Normally when I climb in rock I can be more than half an hour belaying or stopped until I climb again, sometimes near 1 hour. That means that I need to warm up every time I gonna climb? Thanks for your videos.

I know this video is a year old now, but do you maybe have tips for a extended warm up? Shoulders/Back, maybe something for the lower body?

@HoopersBeta

2 жыл бұрын

Hard to be super specific! So many things that "could" be warmed up beforehand. It really depends on each individual and their needs.

Nice portable bro! 👌

@HoopersBeta

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you guys for the hookup! I really love the port-a-board. It's so perfect for my recruitment pulls.

As always, came for the ending outtakes but stayed for the awesome advice. I have an specific issues with this one though. When doing the tendon gliding with wrist flexion, specially when doing the row next to the wrist, I feel a lot of tension on the forearm through the medial side. Is this normal? Thanks!

@HoopersBeta

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah you're simply shortening the muscle quite a bit in that position so the tension may feel uncomfortable. Perhaps just don't do the wrist flexion when the fingers are at that extreme row and that may solve the problem! 👍

@guillermotesoro

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks! I just wanted to make sure it wasnt a sign of an issue on the forearm.

One chapter is labled #2 where it should be #3 ❤

Is it normal for the first section (tendon glides) to cause some amount of pain/discomfort in my fingers? I've often refrained from doing these because I feel like they are doing me more harm than good.. Thank you so much for the video though, I look forward to your advice :)

@santi_super_stunts2573

Жыл бұрын

No homie that aint normal

Why is this better than doing "warm up climbs" easy routes etc. They seem They would be more specific

Touching the first row with my fingers is impossible :(. I have to heal myself before starting any warm-up.

flexor digitorum profundus... flexor digitorum superficialis.. repeat three times.. to warm up your tongue as well.. 😅

I like to do some scapular pull-ups, I feel like it helps me keep those back muscles engaged when I'm on the wall. Also planks and glute bridges for core and glutes activation

How many nordic hamstring curls do we do for warm-up?

@HoopersBeta

2 жыл бұрын

Start with a 2-3 sets of 8-12 reps and see how ya feel :)

Hello Dr Hooper! I tried doing some tendon gliding but my right middle finger couldn't bend all the way and touch the top of my palm (top row) due to synovitis. Should I be trying to to push it down using my other hand to get a full ROM?

@pretor89

3 жыл бұрын

I’m in the same boat as you. I’d like to know this as well

@HoopersBeta

3 жыл бұрын

This is a great question! I wouldn't start with overpressure. If this is new for you, give your joint a chance to loosen and improve it's ROM with simple range of motion work through tendon gliding. If the joint doesn't demonstrate progress in a few days to a week, there may be other more specific interventions that should be applied to help loosen the joint up and then work on the overpressure.

@Benkkuful

3 жыл бұрын

I have DIP joint synovitis on both my middle fingers. What helped me a lot is doing tendon glides and finger rolls daily. I can't promise it will work for anyone else, but it's worth a shot.

@valkamochalin3348

3 жыл бұрын

@@Benkkuful Totally agree - I could actually touch my palm with my middle finger at the fully bent position, did tendon glides thrice a day for a week - works a miracle

For recruitment pulls, if I don't have portable holds, would using the hangboard available at my gym work? Keep one foot on the ground so I don't fully load my fingers?

@HoopersBeta

Жыл бұрын

Yes that would work! Except if you're strong enough to lift yourself off of the ground with 2 hands then you may need to weigh yourself down or just use 1 hand.

@Nixthyo

Жыл бұрын

@@HoopersBeta Thanks for the reply! I am on light climbing now due to a A2 pulley sprain on my ring finger (hurts when I pinch it).

Should this be preceded by a total body warm up, like jumping rope?

@HoopersBeta

9 ай бұрын

You can if you want, but it’s not strictly necessary

What if I can’t bend my middle finger to the base of my finger

Dr. Blooper > Dr. Hooper

@HoopersBeta

3 жыл бұрын

Must reward those who stay until the bloopers (or just fast forward to them)

Is that Culp Valley? wink, wink...

Magnus Mitbo left the chat

@HoopersBeta

2 жыл бұрын

😂

Snoochy boochies!

7:01 This...🙌 This is what I do before each send, same stick, same superior brushing technique, same intensity. It propels me to the top of absolutely every problem imaginable (as long as it's a V1). 🦾😎🚀

@HoopersBeta

Жыл бұрын

Hahaha it's the ultimate brushing technique!