guys, he said pp hehe

@capti7555

5 жыл бұрын

Love your content

@TheRealKitWalker

2 жыл бұрын

😂😂

@Bryan-es2tl

2 жыл бұрын

Centaur pp 😮

@tiestofalljays

Жыл бұрын

hehehe Centaur pp

@John223

11 ай бұрын

And he sucked on it, too

I have been wondering why polypropylene isn't much easier to source as a 3D printing material. Given its incredible flexibility it should be much more widely used than it is. The price would also likely fall with greater demand. Your dedication and attention to detail are admirable.

@hyperhektor7733

5 жыл бұрын

PP,PE and PET are mass products already and 10-40x cheaper than pla, but you need companies to form it into Filament and then you need buyers. Booth things which depend on each other , a chicken-egg problem :D

@WaltonPete

5 жыл бұрын

@@hyperhektor7733 Yes. I'm aware of the widespread adoption of PP, PE and PET. Although PET is fairly widely available in filament form, as you point out, with increased demand other polymers could, hopefully, become more available as such.

@VestedUTuber

5 жыл бұрын

It's a specialized material that's primarily useful for practical prints and isn't exactly cheap. The average person isn't going to be making anything that needs that kind of strength and thus can't justify the costs.

@joncue0304

4 жыл бұрын

PP is about the cheapest raw material is to buy. I was a materials manager in a plastic manufacturer for years. Part of my job was negotiating contracts with suppliers. I was buying high performance PP for around 68 cents per pound. That was after the price of oil went through the roof (PP price is directly tied to the price of oil). Before that I was paying well under 50 cents per pound. If you get into the cheaper PP material, for example T20P100, which is 20 percent talc filled, the price goes down significantly. Which basically means they throw dirt in the material to make it last longer, lol. In comparison, the ABS material we used was of a VERY low cost provider. That material was 1.40 per pound if I bought full truckloads. I can't speak for 3d printing yet, but in injection molding this was about the easiest material to process. You can crank out millions of parts with this stuff and not even show wear on the tooling. The bad part, in the automotive world at least, was that it couldn't be used for much. The vast majority of the material was nylon 6 or nylon 66, which varied between 2.25 and 2.75 per pound most of the time. And with the fillers needed became extremely abrasive, most commonly glass filled. I'm just starting to get into 3d printing. If I decide to start using PP, I'm going to pick up a filament extruder and make my own since I can get it from the last place I worked. Even if I pay twice what they're getting it for I'll still be way under 2.00 a pound and I know where the material is sources and the specific specifications it has to meet. The more I think about it, I might talk to my friend that bought the place I was working and see if it's viable to start producing filament.

@joncue0304

4 жыл бұрын

If you are really interested in the actual raw materials, matweb and ul prospector are great resources. Here's an example. www.matweb.com/search/datasheettext.aspx?matguid=a0f26e2f748a479a81cc98276e25e316

Why my polypropylene hard

@bilIy

4 жыл бұрын

Cok

@connor1667

4 жыл бұрын

Yo 100th like

@MachineManGabb

4 жыл бұрын

You have to low nozzle temperature

@adamarmstrong6234

4 жыл бұрын

Prob cause you like a good centaur pp

@ritabhate6924

3 жыл бұрын

0imp

I love a good Centaur PP

@gamer2morrow

5 жыл бұрын

oh no. i get that reference.

@edwinng4610

4 жыл бұрын

Why

@journeyfan05

4 жыл бұрын

God just thinking bout that centaur pp makes my pp so hard

@chikukumar2442

4 жыл бұрын

@@edwinng4610 pl p

@chikukumar2442

4 жыл бұрын

@@gamer2morrow ppppppp pm p lp p

Thanks for the video. i haven't been able to find much info on PP. You always supply so much information, thank you.

You are the boss Stefan! so much rich information, perfectly sort, wow, you are doing a really professional work ! keep doing this amazing job and providing this invaluable information!

I'm so happy that you tested this material. PP is something I have been wanting to print with but have always been intimidated by the potential for warping. It is quite interesting how well the interlayer adhesion performed. Cheers!

those layer bonds are amazing. as for tape residue. thats easy. painters tape THEN PP tape. :-) what about high temp deformation? it gets wobbly when hot but does it return to printed shape or "retain" the new shape if you bend it when it cools? ie how well will parts survive in a hot car? might make for good nose cones!

@CNCKitchen

5 жыл бұрын

At 100-120C the parts get mostly back into shape again and this is the point I wanted to make. I think they should totally survive a hot car (at least "hot" in German standards).

@maxamillionschnell

5 жыл бұрын

Does it separate from the tape or does does the tape fuse to the print permanently?

@CNCKitchen

5 жыл бұрын

Most of the time you can release the part from the tape which leaves a really nice, shiny surface. Only in some rare cases did the tape stick to the part permanently.

@anthonyrango4262

4 жыл бұрын

Hehe u said pp

@novembertheduck3575

3 жыл бұрын

"PP tape"

All you videos are fantastic. Thank you for all your hard work. I have a project where PP might be good and your video was just the information I needed.

very comprehensive and honest. this video answered all of my questions about pp filament. thank you.

Because of the mentioned properties ( hydrophilic, heat/chemical resistance etc) I think PP would easily surpass most flexible filaments with some development. Excellent engineering video as always! Thanks.

@kzalesak4

10 ай бұрын

You mean hydrophobic?

Man I love this channel for 3D printer is amazing.

Great video! PP is an underrated material for 3D printing indeed... Thanks for mentioning my channel. Cheers, Robin

@CNCKitchen

5 жыл бұрын

Really great work you did in your video!

Finally some info on PP. Thank you! As a suggestion for the next material to review: POM

Awesome video! thank for the info never thought about PP but looks like a great option for scale RC parts... bumpers, cages and such!

Love the information presented here! Also, that finger poke definitely made me lol :)

Every one: wow this is so interesting and educational Me: hehe pp

@JohnWayne99999a

3 жыл бұрын

loooool pee-pee

@JoachimSeuling

3 жыл бұрын

Pro Patria?

@raphaelmorgan2307

2 жыл бұрын

I just thought it was funny that he has his mouth on the pp in the thumbnail lmao

Thanks for another great video, Stefan.

Einfach danke für deine wissenschaftliche Vorgehensweise!!!

your channel the best!!

I’m a big lover of PolyPropylene I think is such an amazing material and layers adhesion is great!

@void1719

5 жыл бұрын

Simone | FNTSMN big fan of peepee eh

@UPJ777

5 жыл бұрын

@@void1719 i can't help but giggle

@snofox4897

5 жыл бұрын

"Big lover of PP"

@scrimbloofficial1443

5 жыл бұрын

Thas gey bro

@yourguessisasgoodasmine6650

4 жыл бұрын

pp will and always will stand for pussŷ. Power.all e omen have one and really know t her power it holds Others that don't pity pity little kitty let's face it sex sells that hoepolyyi=sthsnecc'cccccccc' u sed the name?

That's an awesome material! Can't wait until it's more widely available!

Soft robotics, pneumatic logic gates, compliant mechanisms will all greatly benefit from this material. Great job, thanks for the info!

This is a fantastic guide. THANK YOU.

Nice test 😀👍 Thanks for sharing 👍😀

Amazing filament, I wish more brands were available..

I was surprised you got this thing waterproof. Would be great if you could make a video about making things waterproof in general. Great video btw!

Great video as always. Pretty interessting filament. You do a grate job thanks for that. 👍

Thanks...looks like a good alternative to flex

Awesome thank you for sharing. I want to try using this filament.

Great video, thanks a lot for your work!

Great Review!

Very useful in our projcet work thank you.

in my factory from Pp we do yarn. it is a very good material first of all... also the good thing that if you want to make the filament by your self, it is the very basic material to begin work with it.. thanks Karl

Now i want to try it... thanks for making me spend quite a lot of money😁

@Chazahc18

4 жыл бұрын

you wanna try the pp

Great video, especially with content you cannot find in many other places if not at all.

Tnx for the video. I may have to try that materiale next time I lack some semi-soft material. There is definitely a reason why PP is used for ropes. ;-)

I gotta say, Gearbest's sponsorships are totally up my alley.

the isotropic properties are super interesting!!

1:20 LOVE YOUUUUU!!!!!!!!!

Thank you very much for the video!

the form futura centaur pp is a realy good and easy filament. I love it

Hey. Thx. :) Would be good for quick-release / side-release buckles, in a variety of forms. I definitely want some, and hopefully it's available in the USA. Also, getting a 3D pen has been on my list for awhile. ;)

With the rise of new printers and technologies, I really wish you could revisit some of these more challenging filaments. Printing PP on an X1C for example. Great video as always.

Great video as usual. I wonder why there not more sellers of this; price wise raw pp is not more expensive than PLA (maybe, turning it into good filament is challenging?); I will try it. Vielen dank.

@ThallesNinja

4 жыл бұрын

You can get raw pp quite cheap if you know which bars to look for.

interesting, haven't even heard you can print it. Awesome tip, will try it.

Nice information Video. :D Thank you very much.

I've used some Forefront F43 TOUGH PP (black) myself and was super impressed by it's layer adhesion and surface finish, when printed in 0.1mm layer height it's almost as if it's injection moulded. The nice thing about the F43 is that it can be printed at 200C so there's less warping. Also the layer adhesion is really annoying when it comes to supports on large objects/curved surfaces, the supports are borderline impossible to remove. I used it to create some velocity stacks for inside of a motorcycles airbox as it's properties were ideal for the application (They were designed to snap fit into the airbox + good chemical/temperature resistance).

@nigelt6319

5 жыл бұрын

What bed temp did you use? The manufacturer recommends 110C for the first layer and 30C for the second and subsequent layers. Don't know how I could achieve that.

@ILoveNeeps

5 жыл бұрын

I used the 110C initial layer and I think 40C subsequent layers. I managed it with an Ender 3, it took about 20 mins to heat up and I was using a polythene sheet as an enclosure. If your printer is struggling you could try covering the bed with a sheet of cardboard until it reaches temperature.

@CNCKitchen

5 жыл бұрын

If you use packing tape on your bed 50 or 60C is okay, even for the first layer.

@nigelt6319

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks - I'll give top insulation a go. I'll also add a significant brim as the corners were lifting. What I didn't understand was the logic behind lowering the temperature after the first layer as, because of the thermal mass of the bed, the temperature is still going to be well above 30C when the second layer prints.

Even 5 year old videos coming in handy, designing a naked GoPro hero case for FPV. This looks like the perfect material. Looks like itll save weight and give the toughness I want with you. Only thing I wish you'd include in your tests is printing with supports. Printing TPU supports can sometimes be a nightmare

Thank, very much, exellent video.

Yes Stefan glue is better remove able when hot. As an example: I change the pei sheet on my mk42 heatbeds when they are heated to 110°C. Then normally 99% of the M3 adhesive sticks to the pei sheet and not on the bed. A litte alcohol to clean it and then you are ready to go :D

Good job, very informative video on something I was interested in for a while. You mentioned that the cup print was not watertight and thought of ways to fix it (presumably printing fixes). Do you think PP can be used for airtight prints (a container able to withstand up to 8 bar)?

At first glance I thought the thumbnail was this dude sipping out of a diva cup and I did a wild eyed double take

Old video, but I came here because I recently discovered this material when searching for light weight filaments. In my hobby (FPV quadcopters) I keep my quads all under 250g, so weight is essential. The current build that I am doing right now will be super tight so trying to shave all the weight from the 3D printed parts (mainly antenna mounts, camera mounts and such). Ordered FormFutura's Pegasus PP Lightweight, which is supposed to have only 0.75g/cc. If I don't have to 'bulk up' the designs a lot, then the savings should be substantial vs. PLA and TPU that I'm using currently.

I bet it would work for clothing applications well. Thanks as always great stuff!

Interesting! I would want to try to make parts for molding from these, as "investment" parts. ie print hollow, fill with lightweight PU foam and then fiberglass over.

@EspenLodden

5 жыл бұрын

If you wanted to remove the fiberglass from the inside mold it might come in very handy that it doesn't adhere well to other materials.

Awesome video! How about covering other ubiquitous plastics (thermoplastic codes 1-6), e.g., LDPE, HDPE, etc.?

*OH MY GOD I THOUGH THE THUMBNAIL WAS SOMEONE DRINKING FROM A MENSTRUAL CUP*

TY for this video

Great video

Awesome video! I have a question tho. Does it warp? I've seen in some places that it needs an enclosure...

I believe another "secret" advantage is resistance to cold temperatures, as all plastic boxes for low temperature (-40°C to -80°C) storage is made from PP. Only boxes for ultra low temp (-80°C and below) is made from PC. Next video about PC Max please :)

Any idea how that PP filament cold works compared to PETG or unmodified PP? It might make good insulators, terminal covers, antifriction inserts, or water nozzle parts. All need the material to not flow to readily. Thank you for your work!

Hell yeah, need me some Centaur PP

Hey man. Thx for reviewing this filament. I am working for a concrete workshop and we are creating molds out of 3D prints (mostly). Have you tested the sanding ability? Is it easy to sand? Would it be easier sanding with water? Cheerio - Ben

I know what I’m going to try and make a spring out of now

I like this filament. Now, we need a way to recycle old pp containers, and this wold turn into a perfect filament.

Very nice, So is that a good filament for long lasting products? does the sun affects the material for day to day use? looks like the perfect filament i was searching for!

Thanks for this Video Stefan. Model Aircraft Hinges would be an application.

I would love to see a comparison between different filaments in their abrasion resistance and friction with common things like asphalt and pavement/concrete.

For prints repair or welding i use ts-100 soldering iron - small, usefull, good temperature control. You can try it, or some others soldering irons, that has screen and temp.control.

I also got a spool centaur pp a week ago, but haven't started printing it yet, as I wanted to research a bit beforehand. So, great to find a video about it! Have you used a Bowden or a direct extruder for it? Asking since the material is semi-flexible....

@CNCKitchen

4 жыл бұрын

I printed it very successfully on both. On a bowden, maybe turn down the speed a tiny bit of you run into problems.

Germany based Renkforce has also PP filament in its portfolio at 21 EUR per 750 gramms.

It was very good, looks incredibly in terms of layer adhesion, thanks! How about PET?

I can think of so many use cases for this in science and chemistry but it would be cool to see if you could use a muli material printer with pp and PLA or carbon insert. This way the stiffnes and perhaps ome of the warping could be midigated.

Do you think it would make a good material for RC planes and quads or is it too flexible ? How do you glue it together ?

I print with a .3mm size nozzle on a creality ender 3 at 235C, with a bed at 90C, I have gotten long parts around 20mm tall 50mm long and 25mm wide to be "perfectly" flat with that heat level on the bed, also a brim helps alot, I have to increase flow for that though as the layers separate a little, I find that a flow of 108-110% was good for all layers however if applying a brim upping to 120% for the first layer was necessary and I've played around with extrusion width a little too but have found it to be overkill. Also keeping the silicon sock may help a little. All other settings like 30mm/s for print speed and whatever CNC Kitchen does is what I do as well.

Did you print these in an open print environment or in an enclosed/heated environment? Is the latter necessary to prevent warping on medium sized prints?

Which do you think is the best filament to use when printing Mods for a printer and which type for printing a Hotend holder?

You should do a test with Polypropylene as a shell and abs and or petg as the infill/core.

@brewmanchu1

3 жыл бұрын

I am looking at doing this in the near future. Create an outer shell of PP around the actual shape made with cheaper filament.

Great videos, I learn a lot. What printer did you use to test this? Does your printer say it supports PP or you just tried anyway? I want to get a printer I can be confident supports PP filaments.

@josiahong5177

2 жыл бұрын

Pretty much any printer will support pp. It basically only needs a heated bed

Nice Video 😎👍🏼 What kind of test do you use for the flowrate-test? I mean the small cubes which looks to me a good way to safe some Filament.

@CNCKitchen

5 жыл бұрын

I basically print 100% infill boxes on supports and judge at which infill percentage the nozzle starts rubbing over the surface. Check out Tom's video about his Filaween test methods where he explains this approach.

@tarekt.4008

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you. I will Check it out. Keep up the good job 😎

I am working on printing a crossbow and I'm wondering what material you would reccomend for the bow limbs? I've been using PETG, which works well at first, but doesn't stand up to repeated flex.

have you seen PC/PBT filament?There are very few information about that but it looks absolutely awesome in all ways.

smart materials have also PP :P it's fun to print, i found that it's best at hy speed and 250º

Who else came in because you though his tongue was revolved 😂

@NilesBlackX

4 жыл бұрын

Wh... What?!

Now that pp is really versatile.

To remove glue from bed I would recommend first using oil + rough sponge, and after all glue is no longer sticking to bed, then use soap + water to clean oil :)

@horus3577

2 жыл бұрын

That's a good way to severely damage printing surface

Nice vid... maybe i can use this to print 3D Molds for pouring chocolate ? that's what i'm looking for ..any other idea's for making chocolate molds ? need to build my printer first doh.....gonne start printing for the first time this week .... you channel wil help me a lot.

Trying out pp for the first time; the packing tape is working a little too well however. No matter how much z-offset I give, or how cold I print the first layer, the tape sticks even better to the print, than the print does to itself. I suppose I just got unlucky with the specific composition of the packing tape I have; but I dont see you having this problem; do you remember which brand that is?

Perfect replacement to TPU for RC hobby :) Just tested Ultralight version of FormFutura PP! 0.75 weight! Can you test it too? used it for camera mount and enclosure print - same way as TPU is normally used. This material is stiffer, so protects better, but it is still flexible so observes vibrations well :) I think it is the ultimate one for part such as those :) PC MAX for anything that needs to be stiff :)

What do you think about pp with a glass fiber? Toughness and layer adhesion with higher stiffness perhaps? My experience is with short fiber composites is not good. So may not benefit here either. But curious for your thoughts.

@CNC Kitchen Stephan I don't see another video for PP in the last three years. All of the water pipes in home are made from polypropylene as it is a popular material. So, using this material for pipe fittings could be an interesting use case. From 3D print testing point of view - It would be awesome to see pressure testing, i.e. if you print a pipe and do air/water pressure test. How much PSI will sustain? Is it possible to print a pipe fitting and put it a water pipe system and last?

@JulianBG

2 жыл бұрын

Sometimes you just need a custom, low pressure adapter, to connect two pipes or siphon with different diameters. I see the test equipment for pipe testing is called "Pressure Test Pump"

Would you say that PP material is the best material to use for a liquid tight container?

@CNCKitchen

5 жыл бұрын

No, you can make liquid tight containers with most other filaments as well. Vapor smoothed ABS for example might do very well in this regard.

Seems like a very good material for a phone case.

Great Video! Seems to be the right material for a kind of zip tie or in general to organise cables. I thought you might be able to help me with an issue with my Tevo Tarantula. When I slice objects in Cura with vertical holes I have a serious problem with layer separation. The nozzle prints on one side of the hole and moves to the other side of the hole and prints there without moving down before. So it prints in the air for a few layers which makes the print unusable. Do you have any idea what could cause this behaviour? Please, even in the Facebook group of the Tarantula nobody was able to help me.

@CNCKitchen

5 жыл бұрын

You Z-axis might me stuck a little. I'd try deactivating z-hop in CURA and loosen the rollers of the z axis a little. If loosening the rollers help, then reactivate z-hop again.

Warping is actually due to high temp since high temp will make the polymer chain move easier and get rearranged, but high temp also can give you good adhesions. there is always a balance between the good adhesion and more "freeze" polymer chain (lower than the Temp of crystallization).

@horus3577

2 жыл бұрын

I have a problem with big PETG parts warping. I tried different filament manufacturers, adhesive I'm using is good for petg (PVP on glass), and bed temperature is reduced to 60° which is significantly lower than recommended for PETG 75-80°. Actual bed temperature is also a bit lower. But big parts are still warping. What am i doing wrong?

@user-noonetakethisname

2 жыл бұрын

@@horus3577 how big is the part and how is the chamber temp control

I appreciate all your videos man. Can you do only a Nylon 3D printing filament video? Please

Привет. Как вам удалось напечатать такие тонкие детали из PP без камеры нагрева? Я хоть грел камеру 50-60 градусов цельсиях, но не удается печатать с этим пластиком. Спасибо.

use it as a hinge for the flaps from rc planes