I love how 3D printing is being used by people to cast, mold, etc. The ability to print plastic is cool, but then to move from a plastic printed part to things like metal dies, or concrete casts is amazing.

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

I agree, when I saw the Roadster Shop folks doing it I got REALLY excited about the idea and how to apply it in my projects in the shop.

@TheOystei

3 жыл бұрын

I love how some people are printing metal, thats unfortunatly not for us mere mortals yet. Papadakis Racing 3d printed inconel headers for their Formula Drift Supra in some parts (to suit the printbed size) and just welded the parts together.

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheOystei I'd absolutely love that capability, maybe one day

@tifhorn3311

3 жыл бұрын

Most PLA printers can be used with wax-like filament, so you can make really detailed metal casts, when done carefully and properly... :)

@grimfpv292

3 жыл бұрын

@@tifhorn3311 That's the method that gets me really excited!

Dont know why the algorithm recommended this to me but kudos on the prototyping success

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Glad to have you! Thanks for checking it out

@mcaber

3 жыл бұрын

@@GrindhousePerformance h

@brokeandtired

3 жыл бұрын

The warpage can be probably easily fixed with a ball peen hammer. It gets it most of the way.

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

@@brokeandtired oh without a doubt, I'm still really pumped with my first attempt straight out of the dies, especially now that I've got ideas on improvements

@JC-XL

3 жыл бұрын

See you in 5 years, people, when the Algorithm meets us again 😂 😂

A couple of notes: cold rolled steel sheets have surface stresses that make for 'anisotropic' stretching resulting in wrinkles outside the die, sometimes changing orientation of the cut blank 90 degrees will change results. Too little or too much die pressure on the outside perimeter (clamping) along with friction high/low can cause wrinkles to not iron out. If you annealed (heated) the sheet to remove residual cold rolling effects and let it cool slowly you can have smoother bending too.

@timdomes2301

3 жыл бұрын

annealed soft aluminum probably would have come out perfect

@jrshaul

3 жыл бұрын

Would you want to re-anneal halfway through forming?

@drhender6943

2 жыл бұрын

@@jrshaul Mild steel doesn't work harden, so re-annealing shouldn't make that much difference. On the other hand, annealing and re-annealing aluminum would be for an interesting experiment.

@tsstn

2 жыл бұрын

@drhender mild steel won't anneal much, but if it cools very slowly (eg in vermiculite or similar insulator) it will soften enough to make more consistent bends and curves. I have done this with 14 gauge several times. It is a significant process. Not trying to knock you, just adding my personal experience. I agree that annealed aluminum would likely yield fantastic results.

@jons5366

Жыл бұрын

I think the wrinking around the outside of the drawn part is because of a lack of pressure holding the blank tight around the draw die. A draw ring and die cushion would normally be used to keep that blank tight. As the forming dies close, the draw ring is already closed, with heavy springs or a die cushion creating upwards pressure on the blank, holding it tight around the draw dies. Any excess materail would then trimmed off. This is a very complex part to form without any wrinkles. The fact that these dies were3D printed out of plastic is utterly amazing.

That's really impressive, would never expect that from a 3D printed die. Add a lexan guard to the press just as a safety precaution.

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

This honestly opens up a big world of customization to me, I just need to work on it some more to get the design and process down a little better! Thank you!

using resin to fill the mold is such a great idea ! I think it adds some flexibility to the rigidity of the PLA, reinforcing the whole mold. Perfect !

Good job for a first go. With your 3D prints add a 'brim' in the settings it will help hold the first layers down. With your resin it is Polyester not Epoxy. Polyester shrinks a lot on cure compared to Epoxy so it is a poor choice for this application also as you found heat is not your friend with Polyester resins. Slow cure Epoxy while more expensive will get you a better result. Keep at it :)

Impressive 😎

@sebvv5219

3 жыл бұрын

You mean imPRESSive? 8-)

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

🤣

Good job. I have been watching 3d printed metal forming videos on youtube for over 1 year but I think your results are some of the best. Thank you sharing with us.

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Wow, thanks!

That's legitimately impressive. The resin filling was such a smart idea.

@alestbest

2 жыл бұрын

I would have tried a high performance mortar. Cheaper and no thermal problems

@ignacioaguirrenoguez6218

9 ай бұрын

@@VooDoo_BlueResin is a thermoset and has a higher strength, that way the die is harder than with 100% infill

For simple beverage can, they use more than 20 slightly different presses for precision. Like progressive stages from sheet to a can.

@SwapPartLLC

Жыл бұрын

Engineerguy did a great video on how they make the soda cans. kzread.info/dash/bejne/momcy9WiYqmopdo.html

Impressed too! Just a few thoughts; mixing the epoxy with Sand, would try concrete as an even cheaper alternative. And using oil/grease to reduce friction, maybe this will keep the pressure up for forming out the Details. Now let's try a fender!

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

I REALLY want to get to doing larger panels and really intricate custom parts. Good advice with the sand, didnt know it would work that way in the resin!

@nickopedia5669

3 жыл бұрын

Putting in sand would also mean less resin and therefore less heat to warp the molds. Maybe also sand the roughness/high spots off the back of the molds to reduce cracking. And epoxy resin has a much higher strain limit so it could withstand flexing of the molds, even though it is also as stiff or stiffer than the polyester resin.

@davids.6671

3 жыл бұрын

I would mix in chopped glasfibers to stop shrinkage. that should work :) nicely done

@KarriKoivusalo

3 жыл бұрын

I would use chopped fiber filler too. It improves toughness and adhesion immensely. Plus the other benefits.

@oviwan42

3 жыл бұрын

@@davids.6671 worth a try, of course! My guess was that Sand will take the pressure better, if it's not grinded too fine.

This is the era we are so late to catch up on! Technology advancements only make our lives easier sharing this information even more detrimental! Thank you for sharing your experience as it serves as a template to get started on 3D printed parts

Nice work! The resin you used is actually Polyester, not Epoxy. Had you used Epoxy, it would have probably not cracked as easily. Also, if you use a slow curing Epoxy systems, it won’t have that crazy exothermic reaction that the Polyester did, thus not heating and deforming your printed part. Epoxy will get warm, but nothing like the Polyester.

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

You're absolutely right and thank you! Im hoping to try this again with actual epoxy soon to really see how durable the dies can be

@Mr2winners

Жыл бұрын

@@GrindhousePerformance Hawk epoxy with normal cure hardener(slow) not the extra slow, takes about a week to fully complete the hardening process tho after a few hours you can move it Maybe add some lubricant in the mould when pressing

Would love to see a continuation on this idea, really interesting.

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

I've got some parts that I need to press for the Datsun project in a few videos. I'm planning to make a new set of dies, and use a handful of suggestions from the comments here to make a couple different styles to compare. I learned a TON on the first go and am excited to do more with it

Thank you for sharing. This is an great application for the old 3D printer.

Next time, try spraying some mold release when pressing the metals. Try Pam, WD40, wax. You need to give some lube to let the metals move or slide over the mold. You will need the metal to slide over the mold instead of pinching. Possibly try generic blue "waterproof" grease. Just rub it on well after cleaning the mold. You don't want leftover dirt/metal shavings to stick to the new piece you are molding.

@GrindhousePerformance

2 жыл бұрын

Good advice, I picked up some dry graphite spray to use next time, 👍

@rodrigocozta

Жыл бұрын

when working with metal shape, the metal should not move, but stretch. when metal wrinkle that´s means the metal has moved, in his case, would be good screw metal on model board.

I can 1000% see this becoming common knowledge regarding 3d printing. Thanks for pioneering!

I’ve also watched ppl 3D print an image and then make a cast for exactly what you are doing. Nice video 👍

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

That's wild hahaha, thanks!

That was an impressive experiment. Thanks for the video.

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Hey thanks for watching!

I'm really impressed (see what I did there?) Dave, I'd never thought about 3d printing dimple dies - that's opened up a whole new world of fabrication niceness for me!

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

I'm really glad to hear that! I'm excited to start using this for practical applications

Same effect in the shrinking of steel as i have had on projects, my simple fix was 3-5mm thick rubber, you would be surprised, try add like a small section of 2-3mm thick rubber on those ends & you will notice a big difference! Best of luck

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

That's a great idea, thanks for letting me know!

I like your resin filled approach!

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you! Id seen the roadster shop folks doing some testing with this, I just really wanted to try it myself

This is so cool!! thought of doing this on thin alu for a logo and found this, now I'm very optimistic 😁

@GrindhousePerformance

Ай бұрын

Hey thanks! Good luck 👍

This is awesome, this is going to help me with my resto now , so glad this video was recommend. 3d printing is changing everything. Great video, 👍

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Hey that's awesome to hear I'm glad it helped you

This is a fantastic idea! I'm restoring a car soon and this could definitely come in handy when replicating old parts - who knew plastic and printers could be so versatile?

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Hey thank you! Im excited to do more with this

I'm definitely impressed! Especially given that this was a youtube suggestion and I have no idea why I was watching this...

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

LOL! Thank you

Great vid. The flex in your press as you unloaded (on the second to last piece)was unreal. Great vid again thanks.

@GrindhousePerformance

2 жыл бұрын

Yeahhhhh it definitely got me moving away from the press 😅 thank you!

Nice video. It's a good demonstration and gives me some confidence going forward in my own 3dp metal forming project. Thanks!

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Hey thank you, let me know how your project goes when you give it a chance!

Just got my first 3d printer last week. As a shop owner, I was wondering how this idea would work. Great video. Thank you!

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Exactly why I picked mine up, I'm glad that it helped!

We've all had that press experience where you stand sideways and cover your valuable bits. Really cool project. I wonder if the same could be done for louver dies.

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

LOL that's exactly right! I've been really curious if I could come up with something to do louvers.. it certainly couldn't shear the sheet, but I'm not sure the cleanest way to slice it before forming

Very cool. I've been wanting to do this for a while but just havent come across a project to try it. Thanks for sharing!

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

I wanted to try it before having an immediate use for it. I learned a TON going through everything this time around and I'm really excited to try it on the cars

This mold thing starts to get me crazy!! I have to try it!!! Good job!!!

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

I'm really excited to start figuring out ways to incorporate this into my design and fab work on my projects! Thank you!

Something you might want to try is filling the inside with concrete instead of resin, you can add strands of fiberglass to it if you're afraid of it cracking. Also: leaving a gap between the dies is not at all silly, you should always take into account the thickness of the material you are forming/pressing, you should also always expect some bounce back, i.e. depending on the material you're using and its thickness, it might not want to hold its new shape and will "bounce back" (you press it to 90° and it goes back to 100°).

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

The manufacturer of the resin had also recommended glass strands in the resin pour to strengthen the part. I wanted to try it without it first just to see how it would do. After seeing what this was able to withstand, I'm still interested in when to add sand, glass strand, or other media to the filler.

I'm impressed!

great project, thanks for sharing. i used it at work, for 3d printing casting moulds, very, very pleased.

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Hey that's awesome! I'm glad that this helped and that it worked out for you. Really, really cool to hear

I for one.... am really impressed!

Great video. We just made our own dimple dies (I run a manufacturing company). We started out of PLA then went to steel but during the process we learned you have to design the dies with just enough gap for the material you plan to use. If you don’t, that’s where a lot of your wrinkling is coming from. It sucks but you really need a die for every material size it you want it to form properly and flatten the edges out Great work tho. Love the shape you did and it was a great video!!!

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Hey thanks so much! I learned a ton doing this the first time

Good use of 3D printing. We posted this video on our homemade tools forum this week :)

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Hey thank you for sharing!

I'm really impressed of how you're impressed man! Great stuff!

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Hahaha thanks !

Wow! I actually just recently bought a 3D printer and I am just sifting through videos to learn as much as I can before I get it and came across this and glad I did. I’m actually doing a renovation/restoration on a Vintage Airstream trailer where parts sometimes can no longer be found. I have one part I need that no longer exists, but with this video I now have a idea to print a die and should be able to make that actual part from aluminum myself. Thank you for this content and explaining how you designed the die initially at the beginning.

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Very very cool to hear this, good luck with your project! I will be following this video up with some other modifications to the designs as well to test out so be sure to check back

This is incredible. I've been 3D printing non-stop for the last 6 months, and dreaming of translating my designs into metal parts. This looks like the way.

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

I left a lot of room for improvement, but I think there's a real viability to 3D printers being used to form metal. Im planning to perform durability testing on upcoming videos so be sure to check back 👌

@arcadebit1551

Жыл бұрын

Look into lost pla metall casting. Basicly you enclouse your print, burn out the pla and cast metall into it. There are a lot of different ways to do it and the only thing you need is a furnace, which can be build for cheap.

I‘m pretty impressed with this! 😁

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

This does not get old to me LOL

That's very impressive! Great job.

Fantastic. Thank you so much.

That’s impressive! I think you may be responsible for me getting a 3-D printer. The thought to make a die set, then to use the epoxy infill is really cool!

@GrindhousePerformance

2 жыл бұрын

I love it ! Filming some follow up content this week, be sure and check back!

Just saw this today and I am blown away. I’m a modeler and and engineer and making something like this for small scale using aluminum from soda cans or roof flashing would work awesomely. When in cad program making the male part I’d probably go at least 5% or 10% in reduction to give more room. I’ll definitely be looking into this for making RC parts

@GrindhousePerformance

2 жыл бұрын

Hey thank you! This has a ton of potential applications, good luck!

@sterlingdiaz6205

2 жыл бұрын

That Z looks awesome

Brilliant workflows!

@GrindhousePerformance

Жыл бұрын

Kind of you to say, thanks!

I certainly didn't think the stainless would form soo well given how hard it is. Nice work. 3D printing opens a works of oportunities for makers.

Cool stuff, some advice: You should look into the spring coefficient, basically if you want to deform steel to a certain degree, your form needs to be overexaggerated a bit because it springs back a few % when you let go. You should also probably sand the back sides of the forms flat to avoid the force being applied non-homogenous. Lastly, when I test this out in a few weeks I will install guide rods and guide frame to make sure every piece is correctly positioned.

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the advice, good luck and be safe!

sixth 3D print... 👏. For a small casting project where I have needed a similar filler, I made a concrete out of epoxy and extra fine sand. I get the sand from the aquarium section at Petco. The consistency is just like concrete, you can handle and pack it. I liked it because it solves some issues around the epoxy spilling and being level to the top of your form. Also, it is a large decrease in the epoxy needed to fill the form, depending on what you are doing with it. Not a huge car guy, but I'd love to see where the finished part ended up. They look great. I plan to use 3D printed parts in a press just like yours, so thanks for this video.

@GrindhousePerformance

2 жыл бұрын

Awesome piece of advice, adding aquarium sand is a really solid idea. I need to try this in the future. This part was actually just for testing- I've got some plans for the future but I wanted to make sure it was viable before committing to the design for functional parts. I'm also planning on following up to this video with a lot more tests on the concept as soon as I'm able. Thanks !

Very cool. I wouldn’t have guessed that the 3D printed material would hold up to a press like that. Thanks for sharing!

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Hey me neither haha, thank you for checking it out!

@thesfreader3068

3 жыл бұрын

I think the resin helped a lot too. My guess is 100% infill PLA would have been more brittle, and cracked under the pressure

Wow, amazing work!

@GrindhousePerformance

2 жыл бұрын

Hey thanks!

On 6061T6 might try annealing it first. I think it will go down to T0 at around 600 degrees. It will move like putty and next to zero stress on your dies. You might do that with a torch and temperature pen or cheap laser temp sensor. The 6061 temper will come back to like around T4 on it's own over time. Commercially they uses salts baths to re-temper but probably an expensive process.

I'd use quick setting high performance cement for backing filler. That stuff has incredible compressive strength and it's relatively inexpensive vs epoxy.

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

I'll check it out 👍👍

@ZipperOfficial

3 жыл бұрын

ohhhh good idea!

@drhender6943

2 жыл бұрын

@@GrindhousePerformance If you decide to check it it, make sure you mix is very loose (runny) and use something to vibrate the print so the concrete can get into all of the smallest holes in the print.

Nicely done!

SUper cool video man, nice content all around, thank you.

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks so much!

This is really interesting. I've had it in my head that making the primary part with a 3d printer is missing the point and flexibility of the thing. But this suggests a new (to me at least) line of tool creation possibilities.

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

This really opens up a whole lot of opportunities for me, I've wanted to do a bunch of really small quantity run parts and this will let me do them while making them look way more professional

@madwilliamflint

3 жыл бұрын

@@GrindhousePerformance I know nothing about the material science behind these plastics, but I wonder if you get more rigidity out of an ABS print. Also, look around for a vid on "Salt Annealing." It's an interesting process for post-processing prints for strength. I haven't tried it yet. But it seems like it might be useful.

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

The 'tough PLA' is supposedly very close to ABS in terms of strength although is subject to the lower glass transition temperature. Id like to retest this in the tough PLA with a different epoxy, then possibly try another one in ABS if that's something people are interested in

I'm going to be trying something like this and I loved your video. FYI, SmoothOn makes a product called EpoxAcast that's formulated especially for making stamping dies. Their product is intended to make the dies, not reinforce 3d printed dies, but the fact that it is so strong should make it a good thing to use for this kind of work.

@GrindhousePerformance

2 жыл бұрын

Very cool, good luck and thanks for the tip I'll check that stuff out

Nice. Another use for this amazing tool!

The press definitely racked which is going to cause that deformation on one side of the sheet. Excellent video and great idea on the infill using epoxy.

Really a great idea and an extension of the application of 3D printing I would say, To avoid that pinch (a wrinkle actually) on MS you need to have a holding to flow the metal properly and in an ironed way. Should work better for the ductile metals like Deep Drawn or Extra deep draw material (DD or EDD types). The real surprise is that SS one. All features came out very well and sharper considering SS

@GrindhousePerformance

2 жыл бұрын

I was truthfully blown away with the SS, theres no camera trickery behind it, it really came out that good

You could always anneal it, then heat treat it in an oven. It'd be super easy, you'd get hella better results with it being easier to do as well.

Never in a million years did I think this would work. I am beyond impressed!

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Hey thank you!

This is such a cool idea. May work well for 3D printed Injection molds!!

That was amazing! Perhaps if your dies were a bit longer... The edges might not have the capacity to give enough pressure. If the die was longer, you might be able to get a better edge pressure from the press.

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

I think so too

If you get to print em 100%,use the salt method to remelt the plastic in an oven ,that way you wont have layers break on you.

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

I had to look up what you meant, that's insanely cool- have you done parts that way before?

@welldoitlive675

3 жыл бұрын

Those molds are going to be way stronger with actually less infill and more epoxy. I'd try again with thick walls and 5-10% infill, a high compression strength epoxy, and a very slow cure time. The beauty of the 3D printed plastic is the ability to create complex curvature, but it's got no strength compared to epoxy or (even better) epoxy with chopped fibers

@lykourgosdenaxas8908

3 жыл бұрын

@@GrindhousePerformance only once when i had the chance to use a half broken oven and had to grind the salt since i was not able to find "fine salt" ,there are no vapors as i know since the pla is in the salt but i would rather not use the same oven i cook food with. As far as pla after you remelt it can withstand a bit more heat before it starts losing shape.Pla starts going soft about lets say 60c or so after anealing in salt it can go over 100c without losing shape you can check CNC kitchen .Btw how about using the same method you used but with a more flexible resin that is of a lower durometer so that it will not crack as easy and prolong the life of the mold.

@lykourgosdenaxas8908

3 жыл бұрын

@@GrindhousePerformance maybe if you print it the same way with constant infill and the bottom open,you can fill the inside with salt as well like the outside ofc, that way the pla will be able to withstand more heat enought so it will not deform from the heat produced from the curing resin

You’re doing very well dude, keep it up 👏🏼👍🏼

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Hey thanks so much!

Awesome video man!! Has really inspired me to do the same with some parts on my build

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

This makes my day! Im really glad it helped!

Maybe if on the next project before the resin has completely cured you could sandwich the tools between a couple of slabs of Aluminium tool plate of about 10mm thickness and clamp them as they cure. This should help the tool remain flat. With regards to your pressings...first 6061 benefits massively if you anneal it first. Take an Oxyacetylene torch and black your part with the yellow flame. Now carefully remove all the soot with the blue flame. Do not go to far with it, if it gets too hot it will be in the scrap bin. Heat it with the blue flame until the soot just disappears...Then it's perfectly annealed. In this condition you will be able to shape it with your hands. It will regain it's hardness as it age hardens. The other materials all pressed quite well except the 16G...That wasn't because of it's thickness, it was because the surface finish was poor. A rough surface will grab on the tool and prevent it from flowing across the die, which is why you had good success with the stainless. You can help the situation by DA sanding the material first and also give it a spray with WD40. Looking at your tool I would suggest making it about 20mm wider on each end and cutting the blank to that length, that should help get rid of the pucker at each end. Also make sure that you don't have a rough saw cut finish on your holes. Grind them smooth and round with a spiraband in a die grinder. This will help stop hair line cracks developing at the holes.

@GrindhousePerformance

Жыл бұрын

All very good comments, thank you for sharing! I think to prevent the warping of the dies, I'm best off looking at resins with lower shrinkage rates, and lower thermo reactions. I think that if I used the same poly resin, trying to force it to stay flat puts a lot of pre-stress into the dies that could cause a failure once its being pressed. I'll be doing a follow up series of tests on this in the future definitely check back in the future!

Excellent process development, and super clever using the resin. Suggestions: Lubricant on the dies! that would help quite a bit. Obviously the epoxy exotherms; many times on a pour, if we took too long, the plastic (not styrofoam :-0 SMH) cup would start smoking, therefore using many smaller pours would be better, and maybe pouring one end with the form on a slant until cured (or at least until the temp drops, reverse slant then pour the other end, repeat, that way you would have alternating 'leaves' that overlap where they are thinner, allowing faster curing with thinner, but still structurally connected layers. Too me it seems that the next pour should be done when an overlapping layer is still a bit 'green' for best interlayer adhesion. Also, I think I would try printing a lip with a recess to allow the last layer to receive a rectangular plate of aluminum or steel (say 1/8"); fill the last 1/16" with resin, coat the contact side of the plate, and lay it on from an angle to exclude air which would give a nice final surface to receive the direct load and be the buffer for distributing pressure to the resin/print block. It seems to me, care in curing to avoid the temp warps in the print to maintain original shape would be key. Doing experiments (maybe on a non-part) to see what layer depth limits for temperature limits/rise might be beneficial. Also for the ends, creating deliberate 'waves' for control of excess metal bends so the compressive material at the ends is formed in a way beyond the part for the purpose of eliminating 'wildness' that affects the ends of the part.

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

That's some really good insights thank you. I think there are other resins I can use with less of an exothermic reaction as well that will help mitigate that issue. I've got a few variations of this experiment I'd like to try in the future. The lip idea is interesting, I think it could be printed in 2 pieces to be more print friendly. Ive got another few ideas to expand on I think you'll like, thanks again👌

Wow - mind blown. Great stuff.

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Very kind, thank you!

Great video, theory to concept. Good use of modern tech to make old school.

@GrindhousePerformance

Жыл бұрын

I'm very interested finding more ways to apply this concept, I'm glad you liked it! 👍

Stuff Made Here made some good videos on using 3d printing for steel forming

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

That dude's crazy smart, love his videos!

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

@@DieselRamcharger For giggles I looked up Mike's old post, and it was posted almost a year and a half before stuff made here's video.

@rpavlik1

3 жыл бұрын

You can tell which one of you has more experience with sheet metal work, though 😁

Using PETG or other higher temp plastics might help with the deform in the future.

@underwoodblog

3 жыл бұрын

multiple layers of epoxy and longer cure time to

@danielr9708

3 жыл бұрын

Or heat-treating maybe.

I've been taking a weekly foundry night class at a local high school shop through a community college. The high school amazingly still operates a metal melting furnace that they melt aluminum and brass in order to make castings in sand molds (like how they've cast aluminum, brass, iron, etc. for 200+ years). If you wanted a harder die set and therefore theoretically more accurate finished stamping, the 3d printed dies could be rammed up in casting sand to create a sand mold of the die set in order to make an aluminum or brass die set. It's also possible to cast it in iron as well if you had a hot enough operating furnace. There's also a long-used casting technique called lost wax casting where the work piece is made of wax and is one-time use sacrificial. You ram the wax casting up in the sand mold and rather than removing the workpiece before casting you heat the sand mold, some use a hot plate, in order to melt the wax, creating a void where the wax once was. In recent years with the use of 3D printing becoming more common, this same technique has been used but with 3D printed items. This is referred to as lost PLA casting.

@GrindhousePerformance

Жыл бұрын

I'd love to try lost PLA casting sometime, it looks really promising as a process. I don't have anything to do it at the moment. That's INCREDIBLE that a high school is still offering those kinds of classes. I never would've guessed that melting metal was still taught in a high school setting

@Aikano9

11 ай бұрын

I remember seeing a filament designed for cast making, it supposedly burns up completely leaving nothing behind

That was crazy to see with regular PLA (though strengthened by the resin). Thanks for sharing that!

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

You should change to a bigger nozzle man. Even .6mm nozzle with .3mm layer height. makes a huge difference to print time (and strength too!). I only use a .6mm nozzle or bigger now as my quality doesn't look much worse and it cuts my printing time in half or more. I like the idea of filling the infill with epoxy.

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Hey that's good to know thanks! I'll look at nozzle options.

@TheBreaded

3 жыл бұрын

@@GrindhousePerformance No problem man. Also know that once you go too big (like .8mm or bigger) a lot of hot ends can't keep up with melting the plastic. But most hot ends will go from .4 to .6 without any other changes. And good rule of thumb is to print at half your nozzle diameter or smaller. (like .2mm or less for a .4mm nozzle; .3mm for a .6mm nozzle ect.)

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

That makes sense, thanks again!

@JP-xd6fm

3 жыл бұрын

filling with epoxy is a terrible idea as he showed due the heat. Fill it with something that doesn't heat it up. Seriously, maybe use shell feature so it's just the wall layers and fill it with wet sand.

Impressive! It'd be interesting to see how long it would last without the warping issues. Is it worth the effort for 100 parts made? 20? I dunno lol

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

I really debated keeping on hole sawing and shearing plates until it failed, but maybe next time I'll get a bunch of plates laser cut to try a bulk run when I have a practical part to build rather than a proof of concept/ learning exercise

Nice work! Thankyou Sir!

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Hey thank you!

Amazing work a true craftsman who waits for the perfection and celebrate the joy of success.. good luck buddy for all your hard work and sharing your true knowledge...

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

That's very kind of you to say, this was totally unknown territory for me but am definitely interested in improving !

You might try Bondo Short Strand Fiberglass Filler. Len

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

I'd be curious on how that'd turn out, that stuff's pretty thick to handle. I think you'd wind up having to print the shell with 0 infill or else you'd struggle getting it into all the crevices completely without air pockets

I've heard that meniacle laugh before, he lost his fingers.

"i am impressed" Metal sheet: "you don't say!"

Really interesting use of 3D printing! Maybe I'll give something similar a try!

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

It's definitely worth experimenting with! This technology is really, really powerful! Love my new printer!

He pressed, and was really impressed.. while im watching this bloody depressed.

@xxTheWhiteTiger

3 жыл бұрын

if you wanna talk, im open

This is legit.

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Im seriously mind blown 😂

very cool, thanks for sharing - never considered doing this sort of work

@GrindhousePerformance

2 жыл бұрын

Hey thank you!

Very nice. I really like your experiments and results. Congratulations.

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

That's very kind of you to say, thank you!

Hey, with the 16ga aluminum, you should have it put in the oven to annealed, once annealed the forming should be easier. And one other detail making die. The space between each of the forming die should be the thickness of the material you are pressing betweeen. Now instead of using a 3D printer with PLA, you should use a 3D metal forming printer. You would have better results and you could use light oil to help with the forming process. And to finish my comment, they are books on that subject that could have helped you instead of rushing the process. In real life the stamping process of metal is done in multiple succession with one or multiple dies.

I set all sorts of progressive dies for a living, including roll mills dies and 800 ton press dies. I very much like this idea, a simple stamp press, along with a 3D printer opens the imagination up a bit. I'm invested 😁

@GrindhousePerformance

Жыл бұрын

800T geeeeeze, that's awesome. Any recommendations for changes based on your experience?

@michaelliddy8490

Жыл бұрын

Nothing you probably don't know already. Maybe, make sure the spacing between the two dies does not squeeze the material pass it's material thickness. Also it would help you if you made each blank a little bigger and add a shear edge around the upper die to trim the excess off the part. I don't know much about 3D printers, but I'm about to start learning thanks to you.

Nice results. PLA certainly stands up to the pressure.

Well, I'm impressed!

Very nice recomendation! Nice Work Man

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Hey thanks so much 👍

This awesome. I used to have to make wooden dies for stamping wing ribs but this is way better

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

I'm glad to hear this gave you some ideas of your own! Absolutely not an end all be all process, but the concept seems promising

Great video, would love to see more on this

@GrindhousePerformance

2 жыл бұрын

Hopefully soon! I've made a bunch of improvements since this video, I just haven't been able to record everything

Great job I’m really impressed

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Hey thank you!

Awesome work for just starting out! For warping issues I found what works for me is glass beds and Aquanet hairspray. After mechanically levelling the bed the prints stick well and come off easily after a short time in the freezer. Glass is cheap and I keep a stack for swapping out after print runs, keeps machine down a minimum of time. Hold the glass in place with 3 small binder clips. Good luck!

@GrindhousePerformance

2 жыл бұрын

Hey that's some solid advice thank you!

I had actually been looking into this a couple months ago, but wasn't turning much up online. Then this video showed up in my "recommended" videos on KZread today. Ironically, after not seeing anything before, now I'm getting other recommended videos along these lines. Another thing would be once you have it dialed in, if you were going to make something in production, you could have it machined out of something more durable. But it also looks like the 3D printed versions stand up reasonably well and would likely work for small runs.

@GrindhousePerformance

Жыл бұрын

I just recently posted another video on this topic I think you'd also like checking out 👍 . I did look at having these dies machined and was quoted somewhere around $1000 per die to get them milled, I think this is a great option for low production requirements

@thom17043

Жыл бұрын

I did watch the Z panel video too. That turned out great! And I saw your comment about the machining cost after I made my comment. I have access to a CNC mill, so I'm a bit spoiled in that respect. Still $1K seems high for the work involved.

Iv seen a bloke in the UK selling simple dimple dies on ebay that are 3D printed. You have taken this to the next level.

@GrindhousePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Very kind of you to say, thank you!

3d printing in compression is Very strong as you see. Depending on orientation of the printing process can increase even more with careful planning. Type of filament is important factor. Pla is very brittle choice of filament, Great video showing it in a very positive light. Been using 3d printing for a few years now and it’s an incredible tool to have 💪👍

@GrindhousePerformance

2 жыл бұрын

Hey thanks!