Наконец-то я нашел нормальный англоязычный канал, где у ведущего нормальное понятное произношение. "Планетари геар" - прям ласкает слух.😀 Отличный канал! Так держать!

I've experimented a lot with fully printed roller bearings, but no matter how hard I try, they always jam or backlash. I finally chose and use printed bearings using Airsoft BBs. Very cheap, and easy to make work smooth.

@ColinJWiens

2 жыл бұрын

I have BB's so I may try this with this gearbox, though I probably I won't be able to repost the design since the original is patreon exclusive.

@Skyentific

2 жыл бұрын

I am afraid that airsoft BBs are too small to make a solid bearing. Because of small diameter they may deform plastic raceway. And also here you would need to make deep grove bearing or angular contact bearing (for the trust loads (axial), which would not be easy with the small BBs.

@Skyentific

2 жыл бұрын

BTW, Let’s Print youtube channel have tested different 3D printed bearings, and Airsoft BBs one was not durable at all.

@ColinJWiens

2 жыл бұрын

@@Skyentific Great, thanks for saving me the time of attempting that

@RinksRides

2 жыл бұрын

I have tried a small 3D printed NEMA 17 7:1 cycloidal gearbox using BB's as bearings on double angular contact races. Did not work out well. Too much play in radial and axial.

I feel like i'm watching the beginning of something very big, and it's exciting. keep up the great work!

@Skyentific

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you. I think this kind of actuator can be used for many applications. And this is exciting :)

Absolute beautiful design and build. That’s for bringing incredible technology to us.

I don't see your videos often but when I do I am amazed at the progress you make. Your Fusion360 skills are top notch.

Congratulations with your new working place/studio and also with this fantastic gearbox.

I really loved how you explain and bring a budget proyect to us in such a nice way! 👍🏽💪🏽💪🏽 keep it that Wey

Just found your channel this afternoon and have already learned so much! Thank you!

I been following your work for the past year and I love it. I will be joining your patron this next Friday. I already have too much money in my projects this week. I look forward to building your gear boxes and learning to make/modify my own soon.

Back to building!! Great one!! I am super excited to see where this is heading!!

you are an inspiration.... it may seem understandable for the experienced engineers but man watching you really makes me so confused but it also makes me want to actually learn and have fun like you do

As usual, a very good build and explanation. I liked the gear evolution part a lot! Thanks.

Better and better every time!

Hey great video. I'm glad to see you're still making videos.

Very nice Sky, awesome prints.

So awesome! Very well made, mate!

Thanks for sharing. Keep up the good work!

Great stuff - as always!! Nice job.

Man that's just wow, soon I will be trying to do it!

Discovered your channel today, this was SO fun to watch, thank you for documenting so nicely. I'm seriously considering becoming a Patreon and printing one up for myself.

If I was going to make plastic bearings, I put them in a bag of sand, then strap it to a paint shaker for 5 minutes. Not all of them would survive, but the survivors would be smooth.

@ziad_jkhan

2 жыл бұрын

Interesting idea...thanks for sharing 😀

@ColinJWiens

2 жыл бұрын

I've been using drill + sandpaper

awesome design! Thanks for the video!

I love your work, thanks for inspiring 👍

So good! This is really nice, good work :)

Impressive work! Looking forward to this arm, I will probably follow you and build it :D

Magnifique boulot de conception et d'impression !!!

Excellent videos as always!

@Skyentific

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Glad to see more people doing 3d printed mechanical stuff! SUBBED!

tuning linear advance /pressure advance really helps minimize seams. you can also manually put a small slit inset at an angle around the perimeter to both be able to choose exactly where the seam is (using sharpest corner as a setting) and to spread it out to avoid a bump at a single angle

@Skyentific

2 жыл бұрын

This is a great idea!!!

@eugene-d

2 жыл бұрын

I don't randomise the seam. Instead I just file it with sandpaper or similar.

@Skyentific

2 жыл бұрын

@@eugene-d I tried this. It takes too much time to send 38 rollers per bearing, so it is 76 per joint, times 6 or 7 joints. It is too much :)))

@eugene-d

2 жыл бұрын

@@Skyentific , that's true. Then fine-tuning the slicer settings seems very reasonable.

@laiquocbao2565

2 жыл бұрын

@@Skyentific You can try using the hand drill and some 3d printed fixtures to vastly accelerate the sanding process

This is AMAZING!! Thank you!!!

You are so much fun! Good ideas, too.

03:35 you can print all the gears in place with 0.1mm gap so you don't need to assemble them afterwards. This could be an interesting test.

@satibel

2 жыл бұрын

That might require pva between the two rings though but maybe pausing and adding kapton tape on the seam might work.

@CatNolara

2 жыл бұрын

That would add quite a bit of backlash in the gear though, and that's not what you want for robotic acuators.

Another excellent demonstration of your engineering skills. One day I will become a patron and make something you have designed, I like this and if a smaller one becomes available, maybe it will be this!

Awesome video and cool gearing assembly! Have you thought about including o-ring glands to add o-rings to seal the unit up and keeping the gears in an oil bath? That would ensure ample lubrication as well as probably quiet the assembly down. It will create a bit of drag, but the lubrication would be more than enough.

Amazing work!!!

I think you're doing some important work here. This isn't just a fun project, this might actually push forward consumer-level robotics significantly.

Amazing Job!!!

This is a super awesome idea!!!! I need to study more

Great work!

Cool build!

Really cool design.

if it can stand up to wear then this will be a fantastic part around which to base your arm.

Very, very, cool!

Nice work!

Thank you!

Yeah man! You are the best

This latest gear box looks pretty good. Now I remember that most planetary gearboxes in cordless tools (up to some price point) is made out of plastic, which works pretty well. Maybe not as reliable as metallic ones, but still pretty good.

Mr sky. Your channel is getting so big ! 100k so soon.

Very cool. Glad to see you printed something to hold your nuts ;) Budget project ftw

Awesome work so much fun to see this I came across you channel researching how to build a electrical actuator, busy printing the inmoov robot but I would love to print something like this also

Man I am speechless watching this... AWESOME and subscribed! And I don't even have a 3D printer

Well.. you've got a new subscriber. This was a very cool and informative video.

Nice video, keep it up, thank you :)

Recently I had a similar problem with seems/print inconsistencies holding up a slighting assembly. One of the solutions I tried was valve grinding compound. Ideally Valve lapping compound would of likely been better as it has a smaller/finer abrasive size. However this solution still worked great in solving the problem. Allowing the highs of the parts to bed themselves in against each other and smooth out. (in this situation it was the relatively small layer lines, catching like threads on the part attempting to slide). This could be a solution for some of your problems as well. I've gone so far on some assemblies to intentionally over extrude, then come back with an abrasive of some form, to reach the final smoothed dimension. (works great when tapping 3d printed parts as well).

Great project! wish you luck.)

2:00 I've never seen a schematic for a gearbox before, but that makes total sense!

Assembly v23, lol. Great job, pls keep up these awesome videos.

finally i got the name of your grease! :D

good job!

keep them coming

Great job. Please keep using stepper motors. The cost difference of the motor and the driver compared to brushless is insane. And most of the benefits of brushless aren't even worth it after the power has been through high reduction ratio plastic gearing anyway. It would also be interesting to see you push this actuator to its breaking point. It might be able to handle some impressive weight. Testing different plasics would be interesting as well.

@eugene-d

2 жыл бұрын

Absolutely, I like the video to push towards high load tests!

@satibel

2 жыл бұрын

Using a cheap brushed motor with a printed plastic ring and a photointerrupter like paper printers use should make it at the same price but including an esp32/100+mhz arm board (stm32) and the driver. Using a cheap magnetic position sensor on the output might work pretty well too. Maybe using both given the price of an optointerruptor and printable transparent paper. I think making a cheap stm32 or esp32 board with an h bridge and connections for an optointerruptor and/or magnetic position sensor would be a great thing. It should be doable for

@togowack

2 жыл бұрын

@@satibel why people are bent on using brushless servo motors when TM motors and other brushed DC motors are very cheap. Are we putting a million miles on them? if economics are the problem then use the cheap stuff to demonstrate potential value of machinery. The only real cost is the servo driver and PSU.

@satibel

2 жыл бұрын

@@togowack with 12V brushed motors, you can use a free or very cheap second hand pc atx psu, they can usually handle 20A or more, so it's not even a problem, just use one per motor and run them at ~50% load, so they last and have better efficiency. windshield wiper motors are also usually fairly cheap (10-20 bucks in a junkyard, especially if you buy like 5) and have plenty of power for most applications (30 to 120W with over 10Nm of torque) also if using that with like a 1:2-1:3 pulley or even direct drive you can probably have a good enough actuator (15-45 rpm would be decent)

@freakinccdevilleiv380

2 жыл бұрын

@@togowack You guys are spot on the money, BLs are overkill for a general robotics application. I've been testing with some large brushed worm and 'box' type gear motors and they give huge power for the money. With a potentiometer or encoder you can get a reasonable accuracy. Lowering costs is key especially once a robot needs ten or twenty joints.

Brilliant

respect for the passion you put into these projects. (Genesis, most sexy actuators)

It's so amazing, it makes look mine a middle school project. ;-;

You could bite the bullet and just use a small plastic round stock for the rollers or make very deep groove ball bearing instead and use off the shelf plastic balls. It would still be cheap and you could clean up the seams on just the four races by hand and have a pretty smooth bearing

This is such a great video, thank you!! Looks like herringbone gears (helical is just slanted one way, no?). Can't wait to see where this takes you. I have 3D printed some slew bearings and have been working on my gears, but my robot is still lackluster. Oh, another question, the bearing you used for the shaft - could that be 3D printed too? Too small? does it have to have a bearing?

Seeing as you're using chevron gears now you might not need the slew bearings, since chevron gears can support an axial load. One of the designs you showcased took this a step further by making the gears conical as well as double helical which further allows them to support an axial load. I think this approach would be functionally just as good as a 3d printed bearing, while being considerably simpler and using less parts.

good job , now it is time to build some kind of robots using these actuators i think

Use "random layer change position" setting to get rid of the seams

Inspirational

You are amazing!!!!!

When you talked about eliminating dowel pins, but still needing something for location and alignment. I recently found a method that works great for 3d printing. Chamfer your holes, as if your going to put a screw with angled head in it. Would probably best to call this the female feature. Then on your other surface make the same feature with an extrusion and chamfer, just in the male orientation. I usually put a screw threw these features as well. It will act similar to a dowel and force the surface to align during assembly. If you want a better example send me a message I can send you some examples or possibly post a video for you to show what i am doing.

@Ibian666

2 жыл бұрын

Awesome tip. Gonna experiment with this.

@chrisalbertson5838

2 жыл бұрын

I do this but go one step more. If two surfaces meet and are fastened with screws there is no need for the surfaces to be flat. They are flat when made of metal because flat is an easy shape to machine. But with 3D plastic why not make is wavy or dimpled like a golf ball. I use truncated pyramids with long rectangular bases between the screws. Or if the surfaces are round like pipe flanges the bases are made of concentric arcs. I use about 1/4 of the surface area with these. You might call this "intermittent tongue and groove." The idea is that 100% of the shear force is taken by the interlocking geometry and the screws only see tension force In Fusion360, I fist draw the base, extrude up with 15 degree taper ange. Then use this as a tool to subtract from the mating flange. Finally, I fillet ONLY the make features. It is self-aligning but, better is is 4x stronger in shear

Awesome vid, what 3D printer do you use ? The quality of the prints are good

Maybe you can use POM/Delrin rod as rollers, it is really cheap, has a smooth surface and is ideal for this application.

Nice

Could you print in ABS and do acetone smoothing as a post-process? It would be more expensive, timely, and could mess with tolerances, but would make the surfaces very smooth!

Giving you a comment for the algorithm : )

awesome

Hello, your videos are very beneficial thank you so much, I wonder that these parts are very smooth and precise. which 3D printer and material are you using?

13:39 - agree

a really dedicated design. since you have so much space in the center left, wouldn't it be an option to construct an axis there that holds the hull? preferably mounted with x-bearings or o-bearings (depending on loading case). You'd need to have a machined axis, maybe it could be printed because it will be stationary but even when machined it is probably around 30-50$ and you gain a lot of robustness and save the big plastic bearings

Very cool! Where do you buy the bearings?

Hello @skyentific, what about the resistance? did you analyse if the gears break as PLA material is fragile?

Hi, I amazed with your design and I tot inspired by it.I have a little question. What is the small part you use in the pinion

Прекрасно!

@Skyentific

2 жыл бұрын

Спасибо!

Do you have a link to the video of servo with brushless motor? Looks very cool!

Very well designed, are there STL files available? Would love to replicate

Instead of cross roller bearings I'd go for *conical gear bearings*. - This sould: ★ be much more silent ★ remove the risk of the rollers starting to slide (due to getting caught in those insufficieltly randomized seams), which may lead to a rapid self-destructive internal meltdown.

Use Linear Advance to remove blob on the seam. And make Strain Wave Gear next time. :)

15:20 our favourite robotics KZreadr says Fu*k 💛 love it haha

super nice!👍🍖

Cold you say more about your 3D printer and parameters to print ? Great work - waiting for next steps! best regards

👍🙂👍 Did you also consider curved hourglass shaped bearings or barbell bearings?

Exelent

to fix the 3d printed gears to the motor shafts use small cheap aliexpress 16tooth pulleys,. they work great. u just press fit your gear over the aluminium small pulleys. maybe add some glue

What plugin or method do you use to model the gears?

Nice Job! Do you have plan to make a backdrivable version?

Good night, I found your robotics channel very cool, I'm from Brazil, what is the torque of this device???

Такой русский ацент и внешность русская) За работу респект!

Nice work ! What is the name of the part you added at 12:30 please ? It would be very handy for my projects ! Nice discover !