This guy is a healthy mix between Tom Stanton and Michael Reeves! Love it!

@kurzey8532

3 жыл бұрын

Wow thanks mate!! Glad you enjoyed it 👍

@marcelogaio3641

3 жыл бұрын

Don't forget Integza as well :)

@66bala70

3 жыл бұрын

@@marcelogaio3641 Oh for sure!

8:06 sounds like a dirtbike, love it

Between friction and putting on Band-Aid after Band-Aid I think you made a solid plastic melting machine hahaha.

0:10 LOOK MA! I'M ON TV!

@kurzey8532

3 жыл бұрын

🤣🤣

Your videos are truly funny! 😂😂 Btw, this engine is a very nice improvement over the previous iteration, bravo!

@kurzey8532

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks buddy 🤙

@ferraristahd1661

3 жыл бұрын

Oh shoot, I forgot to suggest to use a stronger material, for example I use pla+ (sometimes even carbon reinforced pla), cause it really allows me to strenghten the weak spots, on the flip side, it costs a bit more (and the carbon reinforced plastic wears A LOT the nozzle of the printer)

@kurzey8532

3 жыл бұрын

@@ferraristahd1661 I've never printed with pla+ or carbon fiber, I'll need to get some! I've got some Petg I'm going to try soon and see if that helps too I've heard you need to get a hardened steel nozzle if you get carbon fibre filament as it chews through the brass nozzles!

@ferraristahd1661

3 жыл бұрын

@@kurzey8532 yeah, unfortunally a strong nozzle is mandatory

use a little clip spacer to keep the gap on the press-down valve to prevent the tubes from shooting out

@kurzey8532

3 жыл бұрын

Good idea!

Maybe try a little grease on the crankshaft? Might at least perform better than running dry. Could also lessen some of the grinding in the engine.

@kurzey8532

3 жыл бұрын

I could pre grease some of the parts before assmebling the engine, I spray silicone lube in through exhaust before running which helps a bit, but still a bit of a grinding noise, thanks for the tip!

Yeah I was thinking: "Engine redesign it is" this entire video, and glad you will! Maybe a lower power engine next time. Also to help you with the pronunciation of my name, the english version would be laser and then burkha but with a g. Then after that it is just Merlin with an s. But the Lazergurka part actually is swedish, specifically laser cucumber. If you want to attempt the swedish pronunciation it is "Lah-ser gur-ka" and the u is special, so type "gurka" into translate and try to imitate it. I can see why you're stuggling with the pronunciation though

@kurzey8532

3 жыл бұрын

I think lower RPM engine would be far more reliable, as it always tends to break on the initial spin when the forces are highest as opposed to breaking from repeated use! Thanks for the tips, I'll work on my Swedish pronounciations 😏

great video! you should maybe invest in a air compressor so that you can run the engine longer or so that you don't have to physically pump as much.

@kurzey8532

3 жыл бұрын

Yes I should 🤣 trying to justify it to myself and need to find somewhere to put it

Engineering with bants, love it

You should be trying to print the o rings and seals with rubberized pla. That way you arent limited by the what size of rubber you can buy

@kurzey8532

2 жыл бұрын

Never heard of rubberised pla, I know could do it with TPU but I haven't printed with it

@GS-yb2nj

2 жыл бұрын

@@kurzey8532 yeah i meant tpu as well. Ive used it before in my printer. Its no different then normal pla in terms of design. But i think youd get a better seal if you replaced the gaskets and seals with something that fits your design better. At very least youd gain more control over that aspect of the project

Thumbed up and subscribed, i like you editnig style bro. Nice one

I've literally got a mini compressor that would be perfect for you, been making 3D printed bottle lids recently and found if you put an o-ring where little plastic band is helps seal so much better, and some PTFE tape on pneumatic push fits, managaed to get one to hold out long enough to lift my car :p

@kurzey8532

3 жыл бұрын

Do you mean the plastic rim that's a few cm after the bottle thread? Or am I being dumb lol Yeah I need to get some ptfe tape lol

@dshaw20355

3 жыл бұрын

Yeah, the bit thats left after taken bottle lid off, I've been replacing it with an o-ring, bit of ptfe on threads of pneumatic fittings, could also do threads of bottle but dunno if this would cause more problems, also you can get fittings that have nuts eachside, normally just joiners, allows you to but a peice of rubber on inside of bottle lid, helping the fitting seal better, finally got a print of yesterday thats held 100psi all night 😁

@kurzey8532

3 жыл бұрын

@@dshaw20355 yeah thats definitely helped reduce leaks from the thread I did that too! Nice! That sounds like you got a good system there

@dshaw20355

3 жыл бұрын

Eyyy well glad its helped, looking forward to your next video. System may work but dont have a scooby what im gonna do with it or make from it 🤣

this shit is fuckin' great

My worst nightmare is infinitely 3d printing a part to never have it fit or work ever. That would be hell my friend.

The 2 bearings must be as near to the crank as possible. Otherwise the crankschaft will bend. You have to move the timing / valve opening cam to the other side of the bearing. Yes, i know wont be easy, but it will double the rpm.

NTP is tapered. Also please use PTFE tape

@kurzey8532

3 жыл бұрын

Yeah I should have used ptfe tape

That last run was awesome!!!!! (till you broke it again. But never mind!) Where is that paypal email?? Cheers!

@kurzey8532

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks mate! Appreciate you wanting to make donations man! I can't figure out a way to do it at the moment without giving away more info than I want to lol.

Heat up the steel ball and press it on the hole, after it cooled down, it’s a pretty good seal! That’s my first method before I go bought the o rings... trouble for doing a lot of it but works really well for one. actually o-rings are not easy to use for some reason, it still leaks for not fit perfectly in the 3d printed parts... and what about a bigger fly wheel...😂, your fly wheel compared to the size of the engine looks so poorly...

@kurzey8532

3 жыл бұрын

Yes I need a bigger fly wheel 🤣 it's why the engine runs so fast lol

When you make an engine work, what is next?

@kurzey8532

3 жыл бұрын

Think of something to power with it lol

@onlinehelper374

3 жыл бұрын

@@kurzey8532 please make a more cilinder version after that and make it smaller to increase the vibrations.Also,check Aliaksei Zholner's channel.Maybe you will take a idea.

Well, perhaps the function of an Compressed Air Grinder (The part that let it Rotate at High Speed) can be of help? Perhaps it even helps Tom Stanton.. you know this Angel in your Video XD Like this: kzread.info/dash/bejne/lYWi2LmOoLrTico.html

@kurzey8532

3 жыл бұрын

I believe thats called a vane motor, and is what most compressed air tools use! Better for high rpm things as you said!

3d printed parts aren't strong enough yet to use in all motor parts ! you cant use it for parts that are under heavy stress , neverminded how hard you try, you need a really low speed motor or parts will explode anyway, replace those shafts with metal parts.

@kurzey8532

3 жыл бұрын

I think there's a few things I could try, increasing the thickness of the parts could go some way to help, also I might try using PETG as the bonding between layers is stronger. I would like to incorporate some metal components for sure!

@mortezamodjtahedi3073

3 жыл бұрын

@@kurzey8532 I really tried all kind of filaments . fiber carbon , PC , PETG ... as there is always LAYERs , there is a low chance to success . some ppl put their printed parts in salt and try to re melt it in Microwave oven. I didn't tried it yet but I think it also can help .I think its not a good idea to do all parts with FDM printers. I bought a Hard-Tough Resin for my SLA printer, if covid quarantine let me, I will try it . but you also can cast those parts ! (what I will ty too after covid quarantine )