That’s cool how you were able to look back at the footage and diagnose what caused some of those bad spots. Well done, Sir. Thank you.

@Bigeaux20

10 ай бұрын

Yep, one of the advantages of having a video record of everything I have done. Appreciate it.

16:43 I feel that. Just watching and it’s making I’m exhausted 😂

@Bigeaux20

10 ай бұрын

The worst part is breathing through he respirator. But, hopefully all that intense work at that scale is behind me. What's in front of me I am better prepared to attack.

It’s a gut wrenching feeling when you use a guide coat for the first time. It’s the best way to see where you have to go back to sand, sand and more sanding. Those little grooves and drag marks are from small particles of hard compound or just a small chunk of matter stuck to your putty knife if can wipe off the edge of the blade and go over it again. Pick a small area pull up your chair mix a small quantity of compound (so you don’t feel rushed to use it all) and just go at the small area till you are satisfied with it. Do this on the areas that look the worst, if you have too you can drop down to a coarser grit paper for this just don’t blow past your major low spots and overly scar good areas around where you are working. Remember you are still developing your fairing and blending skills all in all what you have is looking good and just needs a little more love and finesse. Remember that every pro boat builder wasn’t born having these skills they had to learn them the hard way just like you are. I have faith in you and from watching you work that you will work on it and do the best you can and that’s all that anyone could expect. Knowing when to stop and move on to the next step is a choice only you can make ( remember this is supposed to be fun and enjoyable) it’s looking good can’t wait to see more.

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

There have been a lot of revelations during this process that have been learning steps and experiences. First time scarfing, that was weird. Pulling fillets and getting good at it (at least good enough). Laying thick 1808 bi-glass was a whole lot different than using CSM. Amine Blush that was dreadful because I thought there was a problem with the whole bottom glass job and all I could think is I have to grind every bit of it off. Than the fairing compound. Thats been the biggest fiasco in my mind. Knowing what I know now, I bet I could do this whole process is 1/10th the time, and certainly a whole lot less effort, and that's after I researched, watched, and tried to pay attention to any advice I was given. I knew in my head what I wanted to happen, I just should have stayed with basic steps instead of venturing off course, but like I said at the time, it's my time, my money, and my shoulders and if it's the wrong decision, my opinion was the only one that mattered. I learned through the failure, and to me that's valuable. I'm anxious to get this bottom job done so I can get back to the inside. Appreciate you checking it out and comments. Thanks for the support. Keep it up, I need all I can get.

Looking great, and that is the best explanation of the guide coat I have ever seen. There is a light at the end of the tunnel!!

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

Appreciate it. It's coming along finally. Good things to come. I don't know if it's the best explanation, but I did the best I could. It a truth teller for sure.

Guide coats are really meant to be put on more lightly- just a light modest gray is all that's needed to show you where low spots are. But that dark can sometimes smear into where you already sanded. But your sanding technique using diagonal fore and aft motion is the right thing (assuming you remember to turn your arms off at night when you go to bed. Nothing worse than sanding in your sleep) One of the best things for these blemishes that are trivial but all over the place is to use 3M Acryl Putty in white (because it does not show beneath white paint). The have red and green and these are just different setting speeds. Like soft toothpaste- spreads like a dream, dries VERY fast, sands to a feather edge, used in automotive and marine applications, and has a long reliable history. Bigger dips require more epoxy fairing compound. Your arms might be worn out but you're so close to finishing. God humbles us all.

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

Thanks sir. I haven't had any problems turning my arms off at night, it's the restarting process that has me baffled at times. I think once I get down to smaller areas of issue I may look into the 3M products, but I think I have it sorted now. Looking forward to working with machine sanders in the near future. Appreciate it.

Hi Oscar, I am a big fan of your channel! I love to build me a boat just like yours here one day, you are a real inspiration to me. thanks bro!!

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

Appreciate it sir. I waited a few years wanting to do it, and then finally I jumped right in. I have no regrets and if I can do it, you probably can as well. The reward is the journey. I'm just doing the best I can with the skills I have. Thanks again for the support.

You're right about the physical work in sanding on your knees when you're tall. I feel for you. The knee pads will save you. I still have to do the guide coat on the sides and the transom. I thank God my boat is already on the trailer so it's lifted a little.

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

It's a pick your poison situation. For me to be able to reach the keel it needs to be this low, but with me able to reach the keel, I struggle to reach the bottom portions. It's a compromise either way. If I had a lot more work to do like this, I would build some jack boxes to put the cradle on and lift it up when needed. But, hopefully I am about to go on the trailer so this will be moot. HOPEFULLY, I said.

Use of tape on edges and transitions can assist in keeping the “crisp” line while sanding Great job for a first run

@Bigeaux20

Ай бұрын

Good tip. I hope I'm done sanding for a bit, but in another way that's the only way to get done. Where do you think I could have used the tape method?

@blainethompson6510

Ай бұрын

@@Bigeaux20 along your edges of the hull crisp lines help to break the viscosity of the water so in theory you will plane faster and use less power/fuel

@Bigeaux20

Ай бұрын

Yes, my intent is to make all the edges as crisp as the paint allows. Appreciate the response. Keep them coming.

Looking awesome enjoying watching the full process one of the best explaining the entire process of building a skiff on video. Cannot wait too see the end result. And how you kit it out

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

It's hard to believe that this is where I am from where it started. I recently went back and spent some time skimming through the process and old videos. It's so neat to me how it all comes together, and there is still plenty to do. But, on the finishing it out side, I think it will be a very functional piece with lots of creature comforts. And I'm a bit of a nerd when it comes to some add ons. The electrical diagram is taking shape and it's going to be neat. Appreciate it dude. Send money...

This is why I added the shear before I flipped. I knew I would have had to paint and flip it back over. But the question was how to do this without messing up the paint IF the sheer wasn't added prior. On top of that, I didn't know what to expect when overlapping the glass over the sheer. So instead of having to deal with 2 of those problems later, I went ahead and installed the sheers and was able to overlap the top and bottom glass at the sheer line. I faired the sheer once the boat was flipped right side up. I didn't know if the paint was going to have a overlap line since it was my first build also. I think you should paint to the edge of the chines instead of "overlapping". That way when you flip it right side up, you only need to paint from the top, down to the edge of the chines. Less having to wet sand and flatten where the two layers of paint meet. Looking forward to your next video!

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

I think there are many ways to skin this cat. I didn't want the shear bumper on so that it would make sanding the whole side easier. That was my ultimate logic and I "think" without it there, I have had an easier time (I can't imagine it being tougher, but it's possible) sanding the sides since I can hang one end of the board off the edge and go in all directions. I got with Oertel who did it the same was as me and he said he would paint up half way of the side, but like you I am worried about what that line will take to make it undetectable. Also like you I thought about just coming to the edge of the chine and then painting down, but what I am leaning to now is painting the bottom to the edge of the chine, and then overlapping the side and just painting the chine again. The old paint/new paint edge would be the hull chine intersection which is going to be a transition anyway. I don't know. That's why I'm talking about it now. It would be a lot easier to blend a joint on the side of the boat as far as access and good working posture, though. So many small decisions like this and each one has ramifications. What fun...

@FishingWithHoang

Жыл бұрын

@@Bigeaux20 Either way will work just fine. I guess OCD really holds us back on doing things lol. Another tip. I used a black primer spray can for the guide coat. Lightly dusted tge surface. Just another option for new boat builders.

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

It would probably be fine, but I am just too leery to mix and match paints. The guide coat powder does the same in the end I believe. I actually used it on a few smaller spots where I have a variation in color and it tells me what I need to know. And I've never been accused of having OCD in my life. I think I am on the other end of the spectrum. The evidence of that is everywhere. Thanks as always dude. Probably the most inspirational of any for me doing this boat.

I would concentrate on the sides and transom. The bottom, which won't be seen, only needs some touchup. Major flaws may need fairing compound but other areas may only need the high build primer.

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

We are certainly on the same page. I want the bottom to be awesome, but if it’s nice and no one sees it, I’m good. The transom,sides, and the bow will be the things most visible. But I still see everything., and I’m not putting junk in top coat. I’ll do my best. It will be enough. Appreciate it.

Looking good. I think you are too tough on yourself. You’ve come a long way and being self taught at that. Good job!

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

I don't mind being tough on myself. I'm trying to relay the truth authentically to someone who may watch my stuff and want to try a project like this. The over point of my self criticism is two fold. One is to (attempt to) be funny and I don't take any of it all that serious, and second is to be an example to anyone else who may question if they can do a project like this. It's okay to make mistakes and not be 100% skilled at a certain task. Jump it and figure it out. That's kind of what I am trying to portray with the project. I mean I want a nice boat that is functional and I get to enjoy, but it's a project for fun. Yeah, it's fun. I think. I hope. Yeah, it's fun by golly. Thanks for the good words. Man who builds boat happy to hear good word.

Looking great! I was wondering if you could pull new fairing compound right over the guide coat spots or whether you have to really get all of the guide coat out first.

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

That is a similar question that I had. I searched everywhere and couldn't find anything that said for certain to go to great lengths to remove all hint of the guide coat. As you can see, I vacuumed all the surface, and then I actually wiped everything down with alcohol before I applied the fairing over the high-build with remnants of guide coat. Truth be told it's more color than particles, but even still. I did my best to prepare the surface. Some big leaps since I put the high build on and did the guide coat. About to repeat that process.

@1dandandy1

Жыл бұрын

​​@@Bigeaux20clean off all the guide coat with acetone for a good adhesion of the next coating of filler or high fill primer.

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for that. I did what I assumed was the next best thing and used Denatured Alcohol to prepare the surface. Next go round I will use the Alexseal Surface Prep product that I have. I looked everywhere to specs that stated what to do, but I couldn't find anything.

Steep learning curve there, are you gonna round of the edges of the shimes and rear I was wondering, sure would make them stronger if you hit annything.

@FishingWithHoang

Жыл бұрын

Some guys did a sharp edge. Some put a radius on it. The guys who did the sharp edges had more experience with boat performance. I was told the water leaves the pad better with a sharp edge VS rounded edge. I rounded off everything on my boat so if I hit anything, the epoxy would not crack off.

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

I'll probably leave them sharp for the simple fact that getting them perfectly rounded and fair sounds like another step that will take a good amount of effort. I'm not totally decided, but I'm leaning to leaving them sharp. Also figure if something chips over time, I will now know how to fix it. So, that's different that what I would have said in the past. Good question though. Appreciate you checking it out.

Flexible Orbital Sander? Yes its Electric....

@Bigeaux20

8 ай бұрын

I'm not sure I fully understand the question, but the Bosch RO has a cushioned pad that is pretty firm, but I also use a form pad that adds a layer in the hook and loop system to give it a bit of a softer (more flexible) sanding surface. That work?

I think you did a great job, just one question. Why did you not use an air file ?

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

I didn't use an air file basically because I'm an idiot. Naaaa, not entirely. I went through the whole process and there were two things that kept me from putting a package together. One, something in me wanted to do it by hand to have the experience, and also by hand I thought it would be tougher to get myself in a lot of trouble like sanding through glass, or gouging it all up. Those two things probably had me leaning one direction. Secondly, an air file takes a fair size air compressor, which I don't have. If I were to get one, where I am building the boat is a good ways from an adequate power source so it would be a long run and I'd have to set up a shelter for the compressor, etc..., and the wife already isn't all too excited about having a huge white tent that constantly has an abundance of dust flying out of it. Also the noise and I'm close to the houses around me, etc.... It was just a bridge too far, but like I said, I kind of wanted to do it by hand. Now I am an idiot because I didn't think it would be this much sanding, but some of that is my own doing. It's a good point, and believe me one I wish I would have made different many moments through this process.