The problem with the tension/moon board is that the holds assume a base level of grip strength that any beginner and even intermediate climber may struggle to have.

@charlstice

Жыл бұрын

Spray walls work fine for the first two drills. You can make up your own route for the third (or use an old Plus 2 route).

@joemcalister7105

Жыл бұрын

I was gonna agree but from my experience (as a beginner, I think. I only climb V4/5) if you stick with it and persevere though the not being able to do anything stage, you learn which holds are good and how to grip holds you thought were impossible. But then again that was only a small angle, not like in this video

@AMM1998

Жыл бұрын

I think that the actual problem here is people being weak. It's not the boards fault that the holds are small. These boards are designed to build a specialized skillset. If you're not strong enough to pull on moonboard jugs(there are in fact jugs on every mb set, the tension board is filled with jugs) then you would get more benefit out of regular climbing until you build up enough strength/tension

@simonrobbins815

Жыл бұрын

I agree with the OP, with the standard board angle of 40degrees it is really hard to get into tension or moon board. I sport climb up to 7b and find training on a woodie board up to 30 degrees much more useful. I can't get near a single problem on the 2016 moonboard at 40 degrees (there are no "jugs").

@markuswrede8960

Жыл бұрын

Sure, moon board is hard and sandbagged. But with all due respect it might be better to get to that base level, before worrying about these very specific and special training methods? What's the point in practicing body tension, if your hands can't hold on even with proper tension? Just climb :))

Cool, the first two exercises are really good ideas for warming up for the third, which in general, is how I usually (attempt to!) climb on boards already, thanks

Perfect example of exercises that help you getting better and stronger but also motivated! Well done!

Short and precisely, nice

Very wise. Good tips 😊

Good exercises, thx!

2:25 my favorite kilterboard v5! Pez!

Thx y'all!

I've never seen or heard of anybody training on a board in this style excluding number 3. I'm going to try sticky feet as I think that looks like a great drill! Looks like it'll also work your power endurance!

@gergelymartonffyclimbing

Жыл бұрын

I thought the same thing! I should try it.

I love this

Hooper's beta just postet a similar video? coincidence?

@LatticeTraining

Жыл бұрын

It's a complete coincidence 🤣

00:48 : Pinned Hands 01:48 : Piined Feet 02:16 : Tension Boulders

I would love a video on the opposite topic. How to cut feet, and exercises to train for when they cut. I can hold tension all day, but when the feet come off, I'm done.

3 quick drills in a vid that's 3:33 long!

@zigzag1906

Жыл бұрын

perfect

@AllegraClimbingPsychologist

Жыл бұрын

An exercise well explained will make it much more probable for you to try it! How many IG drills have you actually used, in your experience? 😊

how do you transition into board climbing? i got a few friends who are struggling to even do the first move. are there drills to do that besides "Climb more"?

@IWkris

Жыл бұрын

Find a board that can be adjusted/not as steep

@Allen_lena

Жыл бұрын

I'm a fairly new climber, so take this with a grain of salt, but I feel like the difficulty floor in the boards is just higher. Think about it, the board isn't really as meant for technique development as a regular wall would be, it's a training tool that focuses way more on strength. So even the easy climbs on there are harder due to how overhanging most board systems are, and how the holds require some strength. From my own experience, having some trouble with V1s-V2s on the kilter board (40º is a killer angle), finger strength is limiting in most of the holds, so even if it sounds cliche, "climb more" sounds about right. Also, even if you don't get more than 1-2 movements, just trying and holding on to a few holds seems like a great training tool. Finally, traverses on boards may be easier than most climbs, as the positions aren't usually as extended or bunched up as a regular climb, but that may vary from person to person.

@nilsp9426

Жыл бұрын

Just a stupid beginner question in return: why do you want to transition into board climbing, when it is above your skill level right now?

@ericmcelyea5089

Жыл бұрын

Boards have a more realistic grade curve so they aren't great for beginners. The walls in the gym have baby soft variants of the first few grades. A v0/v1/v2 at the gym is going to be super soft so that new climbers can send their first day. The boards will have something closer to outdoor grades (it would be incredible for an out of shape person to send a v1 their first day outdoors, but pretty common in the gym).

@dominicsch530

Жыл бұрын

@@nilsp9426 less steep angles. If that is not enough start using it as max training (focus 30 min on single moves / sequences of 2 or 3 moves).

I can’t wait to be the stongest ever.

@adas7614

Жыл бұрын

I came to the comments to see if anyone else noticed 😂

Did you read Ned’s book 😂

@LatticeTraining

Жыл бұрын

I did actually, thought it was very good. And I know what you are suggesting but we've been doing drills like this for longer than the book has been published. I actually remember doing drills like this when I started climbing 11 years ago, the first one being called 'sticky feet'. Not as bad as the time we got accused of 'copying' the deadlift from an American coach.