I know people will say I'm nuts, but this does come from a licensed mechanic, albeit an airplane mechanic. I actually recommend changing the oil the first time after about 20-50 miles. I know, you're like WTF that's nothing. Well, no, it's not. But 90% of engine break in and metal shavings are generated in the first 25 miles. I put 30 miles on my R3 and changed the oil. I cut the oil filter open and it was full of microscopic iron shavings. I then changed it again at 200 miles and there were no shavings at all in the oil filter (or maybe literally 1 or 2 specs of metal). Its probably just fine to go to 600 miles but I won't be waiting that long to change the oil on my bike. You do as you wish, however.

@Doom-Head

Жыл бұрын

Wow if you would have told me that sooner I would have definitely followed your advice haha thank you! ✌️😎

@StreetPiratesTV

6 ай бұрын

I change mine every 2k... 600 is rediculous. My 2021 636 has 12k miles on it (I ride a lot) and never had shavings in my oil, nor oil filter. And checked with a magnet for finding that shit. You're just blowing money away changing it every 600 miles. But hey, your money.

@Diemerstein

4 ай бұрын

@@StreetPiratesTV He didn't say change your oil every 600 miles, what he said you should change your break in oil before hitting 600 miles because most of the engine metal shaving will be in your filter long before you hit 600 miles.

@_MotoMatt

Ай бұрын

I do first at 100 miles, then around 600 mile mark, then every 3k

This video was hilarious and informative. Well done

1) Use Hi-Flo filters if you want that nut on the end. K&N has had lots of problems over the years with leaks and that nut blowing oil... ask he how I know. K&N had to write me a check for a new set of tires after the spot weld that holds the nut on, busted up in the mountains and blew a quart of oil all over the back tire and road. Thank god for traction control! 2) For removing the filter, get an empty 1L bottle of Smart Water, and cut the end off the fat end, and turn it into a funnel. It will catch all the oil when the slide it up under the filter and unscrew it, and it pours out the small end, several inches clear of the bike, safely into the oil pan. If you cut it right, you won't spill a drop anywhere on the bike. 🙂

@StreetPiratesTV

6 ай бұрын

Never had an issue with the K&N filter...

@SquireSCA

6 ай бұрын

@@StreetPiratesTV They were recalled a few years ago because they had failures like I had when they switched their manufacturing to a different OEM based out of Thailand... It was so bad that most race organizations and track days banned their use... They are probably fine now, but I just stick with the HiFlo's that have never had issues...

Got this same bike in the KRT edition colors November 2022. Already put 10k miles on it. Super dependable bike. I've told ppl if I had any other bike I'd be dead by now lol. Ninjas over everything

Awesome stuff keep up the amazing work😎

@Doom-Head

Жыл бұрын

Thank you prototype! 🤘

Great Informative video!! Thanks Dude

@Doom-Head

Жыл бұрын

No problem alien! 👽✌️😎 thank you

great tutorial brotha!! I'm 11 months late and not sure if you have them yet but some stands would make the process way easier forsure! and i recommend ams oil and the oem kawi oil filter. Ride safe!

Got the same bike Aug 18 as my first bike. I hope you do like chain maintinance stuff too. Great content man!!!

@Doom-Head

Жыл бұрын

Congratulations! It’s an amazing machine for sure! And yes I will definitely be doing all sorts of maintenance vids 👍

@frost2g301

7 ай бұрын

you alive ?

@Im_V

6 ай бұрын

@@frost2g301 yep lol

@frost2g301

6 ай бұрын

@@Im_V bike with us still ?

@Im_V

6 ай бұрын

@@frost2g301 yea I’m trying to sell it rn I need to get a truck now that I’m finished with college

I appreciate the shirt haha rock on man

@Doom-Head

Жыл бұрын

😁🤘

Just bought a 636, on 97 miles right now, i know it probably would be a good idea to change it now, as i read a mechanic below saying he did it at 30 and nearly all the metal shavings were out of their by then, i know they say 600, and it likely will be okay if i ride a few more miles before doing it. I wanted to see how hard it would be to not make a mess w the filter, i noticed it was on the side. Good idea w the cut paper towel thingy, my paranoia will have me doing same thing to keep oil off of it. Doing my best to keep perfect care of it, scares me owning something so nice.. really dont wanna ruin it fixing something and doing it wrong that would be terrible feeling. Thanks for the video, it let me know what i was getting into

Starting videos with animals is the best way to go 👍

@Doom-Head

Жыл бұрын

I have to agree ✌️😁

Questions for you. I noticed that you also have a CBR650R. Can you describe how it differs from the ZX-6R ? I have a CBR650R and am contemplating trading it in for a ZX-6R, but want to make sure that it is actually different "enough" to even bother doing. For (example): - Seating position. I know the CBR is more upright/comfortable. Just how much (more) are you leaning forward and putting weight on your wrists on the ZX-6R ? - Foot Pegs. On the CBR, they are more forward and down. Comfortable. On the ZX-6R, they are further back and higher up. How does that feel and what impact does it make ? - Acceleration. CBR seems ok to me, but really, just (how much) more pull does the ZX-6R have - over the CBR ? Is is really that noticeable ? - Brakes. CBR braking is kind of weak. How are the brakes on the ZX-6R in direct comparison for stopping power ? - Levers. CBR only has adjustable lever for the Brake. ZX-6R has adjustable Clutch and also Brake. How much useable adjustability does the Clutch have ? - QuickShifter. My CBR has none. Do you find you actually use the QS a lot on the 6R, and also, since it does not QS on the Down-shift, do you wish it "did" have that ? - Looks. I have to admit, I like a flashy bike. The CBR's RED looks sooo good. I find Kawasaki's "green" ugly, and the Black version you have looks good, but not Flashy-enough. What are your thoughts on the looks between the two ? - Insurance. CBR thankfully is not too expensive to insure. How much more is your ZX-6R to insure ? - Comfort for Longer Rides. I can ride my CBR all day - but my butt needs a small break about every 2 hours or so. How about the ZX-6R ? - City Traffic. The CBR, being more upright - is comfortable when stuck in slow traffic. How does the ZX-6R feel in this situation ? I will use your feedback to help me decide whether or not to get a 2023 ZX-6R or not. PS - I am angry at Honda regarding my 2020 CBR650R. The vibrations >6K RPMs shook the crap out of the ignition/key/lock over time. Very loud metallic buzzing/distortion kind of sound. My bike is in the shop getting a new ignition/lock installed. A lot of others suffering similar issues with their bikes. This is part of my reason for changing bikes, too....just out of spite, lol !

@Doom-Head

Жыл бұрын

you are talking about a night and day difference, the CBR is my dads bike and have not rode it that much but I will tell you it is way more mild, the ZX6 is not built for comfort it is made to perform….you lean wayyy down on that thing, it is a GO FAST bike. It has almost double the power the CBR has. So as for a commuter bike I would say the CBR is a better option, and lower insurance.

You and me both. Got it at 1 mile now I'm at 690 since January 20th

Sweet

Love to see it, I want to get an m4 street slayer exhaust anyway you can link me where I can get it, I have a 2023 too 😩

@Doom-Head

Жыл бұрын

I actually need to start looking into a new pipe for sure! As soon as I find one I’ll let you know bud! 🤘

@KtuluLeaderRise

Жыл бұрын

@@Doom-Head awesome, I’ll Forsure get what you recommend 😎

You like ohlins dampener how do you feel about gpr dampener I just purchased on a few days ago

And the brand of oil is less critical than making it sure to be full synthetic motorcycle specific oil, in the right weight. Mobil1 is fine. I ran Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 for years in all my street and track bikes...

@SquireSCA

Жыл бұрын

@Nasty Habitz Wrong. Most bikes ship with full synthetic from the factory today. The myth you are quoting is from the 1970's, when guys were putting car synthetic in bikes and it was messing with the wet clutches. Their conclusion, which was wrong, was that it was "too slippery", and they then theorized that being too slippery would hinder the break in, in particular the ring honing and seating process. That has never, ever been true. The car oil contains friction modifiers that cause wet clutches to slip. Motorcycle specific oils do not contain this, for that reason. This myth has been debunked for decades, literally, and it amazes me to see people still repeating it...

@SquireSCA

Жыл бұрын

@Nasty Habitz they avoid it because it's more expensive to put synthetic in when it's only gonna be in there for 600 miles, not because it will hurt anything.

@SquireSCA

Жыл бұрын

@Nasty Habitz Dude, between the wife and I, we have now owned 44 motorcycles. All brands. 12 Ducati. 2 Aprilia. 11 Triumph. A KTM. Several Yamaha, Honda, Kawi and Suzuki. All the new bikes come with Synthetic in them from the factory, and the manuals call for Synthetic at the first 600 mile oil change. I have worked with pro tuners for years that tune and wrenched some of the top AMA and now MotoAmerica guys. My former Ducati tech was a Ducati Factory WSBK tech for Doug Polen for the years that Doug won the world titles. Another of my tuners has been flown out to the Isle of Man TT as well as the Macau GP to be the chief mechanic on their teams. I trust their judgement, as well as what's in the damned manual as far as recommended oils. You will do zero harm to a motor using synthetic. It flows better when cold, it sticks to parts better, and it holds up better to heat and shearing. There is literally no downside to it other than cost, which I don't care. What you are repeating is literally holdover debunked crap from the 70's and 80's. It wasn't true then, and it isn't true now. No reputable manufacturer is denying a warranty claim on a motor because the owner used synthetic "too soon"... LOL Just stop.

@SquireSCA

Жыл бұрын

@Nasty Habitz Is tha the same manual that says to not exceed 6000rpm for 600 miles, on a bike that was run a the dyno, to redline, before it left the factory? Synthetic is not too slippery and it does not hinder break in. That's never been the case. Your post did help me in one area. It showed me why I would never buy from you. Owning a dealer or company doesn't mean you know anything about the product. You would be amazed at some of the whaky and incorrect things I have heard from dealers and even dealer technicians over the years. But thanks for the cringe-worthy read, I can tell that you put effort into it.

@SquireSCA

Жыл бұрын

@Nasty Habitz I have also found countless articles saying the exact opposite: Old myths One of the persistent myths surround the break in process is that synthetic oils can’t be used during the period. This may have been true 50 years ago, but not any more, and perhaps not even back then. The myth is centered on the notion that synthetic oil lubricates so much better than conventional oil that none of the wear required to polish and match things up will take place quickly enough, and that in particular, the piston rings will not wear into a good match to the bore fast enough. If the rings take too long to seal, the story goes, they will build up a glaze from the combustion gasses blowing past the incomplete seal. One part of this is true; if the rings don’t seat fast enough, they can actually develop a coating of partially burned fuel byproducts, and that will prevent them from ever being close to 100% effective in sealing the force of combustion up in the combustion chamber where it belongs. However, really significant advances in piston ring technology have all but eliminated this problem. More on that in a bit. The two parts that aren’t true are one, that synthetic oil lubes better, and two, that too much lube during break in is a bad thing. Synthetic oil is almost always the same basic chemical compound that conventional oil is at its base. The difference is just that instead of being dug out of the ground and having a bunch of undesirable stuff removed from it in the refining process, it’s created from scratch in a lab, with none of the bad stuff included. And in fact, while Group IV and Group V synthetics are completely lab created, the so-called “synthetic” Group III oils are conventional oils that have undergone a higher level of refinement than other conventionals, and are allowed to use that term. So there really isn’t a difference in them in terms of their ability to keep two metal parts separate from each other, only in their durability under severe conditions. Frankly, the only sensible reason not to use them during break in is that they tend to be more expensive, and break in oil should be changed after a much shorter interval because the break in process normally produces a lot more debris than will be present after the process is completed. Even if it were true that they lubed better, that would actually argue in favor of their use. Remember that the wear surfaces of new parts are rougher than we want them to end up being, which creates undesirable friction and more wear than we’re looking for. Good lubrication is more critical during break in than at any other time, so the use of a high quality lubricant is extremely important. And whether it’s synthetic or not, the use of an oil containing a lot of anti-wear additives is critical during break in because of how important the embedding of the new parts with those additives is to the entire process.

Yeah I used a type of channel lock pliers on my oil filter. Not your traditional channel locks though, I think they were made for oil filters. My advice to you is get the filter with the bolt fixed to the end of it. That way you can just get a socket right on it and turn it with the wrench.

@Doom-Head

Жыл бұрын

Yes! The K&N filters seem to be real nice ✌️😎

damn i didnt know zx6r had oil filter there. THought it was in the same spot as ninja 400

Bruh I am flabbergasted that all it took was unscrewing the drain plug and the horizontal oil filter (which is a little inconvenient). On my MT03 you have to take off the belly pan off and then you can start the change lol, but the filter is a lot easier to take off.

@Doom-Head

Жыл бұрын

yeah I dont really care for the side mount

Hey man, where do you find OEM parts for this 2023 zx6r? I've looked everywhere and I already need new fairings for mine but cannot find them anywhere. (please, don't ask why... :crying: )

@Doom-Head

Жыл бұрын

Dam that suck dude, I think for OEM parts you can go directly through Kawasaki for fairings and such ✌️😎

@edgerunnerwhitelake3897

Жыл бұрын

@@Doom-Head It literally happened on wet grass in my driveway and i'm devastated. It was bound to happen at some point, but I didn't think it would happen within the 1st week of having her. :sobbing:

I often wonder why oil flows better hot since it gels with temperature. Damn that oil filter sits in there like John Deere mower. Like Frosted Flakes settles during shipping.

@Doom-Head

Жыл бұрын

Yes haha not a fan of the filter location 😂 ✌️😎

@everettjellinek1481

Жыл бұрын

when it's just warm and the oil is relatively fresh it (and just about all fluids) decrease in viscosity with increasing temperature. That's a physical change. the gelling is a chemical change when constituents in the oil formula break down

Yeah the new oil filter should fill up, but you know your supposed to be in between those two lines on the glass right?

@Doom-Head

Жыл бұрын

In between? 😱 I did not Realize! I will do that next time thank you! 🤘😎

@josephjoestar5444

10 ай бұрын

Thank you for that info . My dad was like keep it at 3 quarts even Because it seemed like too much oil already above the second line

LIQUI MOLY OR MOTUL OR AMSOIL ???

Do you know what filter number it is? I need to change mine and I’m new to this lol

@Doom-Head

Жыл бұрын

K&N Motorcycle Oil Filter: High... www.amazon.com/dp/B000E2CVIS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Quick question, did a wheelie today landed not too hard but pretty hard, thought I heard something. Now I feel like my bike is a bit more vibraty, also I use to tip toe to park it since I'm short and now I feel like the bottom of my feet can actually touch the ground...like my bike is lower or something 😅 😳 not sure but it feels different :( 😞 any thoughts??

@Doom-Head

Жыл бұрын

I know what you mean, it could Potentially be a fork seal gasket….but I will research more 🧐

@DontFollowMe666

Жыл бұрын

@@Doom-Head thanks for the response, I'm gonna take it to the shop next Saturday and see what they say. Will let you know what they say and the dark side of having a wheelie good time😅

amsoil 10w 40 metric motorcycle oil is the only oil you need

your used oil has water mixed on it.

Not the greatest tools in the world. Man needs snap on in his life!