Detailed, great tips on ensuring the pads fit and move in the carrier. Thanks.

@TwoFourSevenDIY

Жыл бұрын

Glad you found it helpful!

Best video I’ve seen on brake work

@TwoFourSevenDIY

Жыл бұрын

Thanks!

Great advice. Thanks. Watched 6 videos on this and you were the only one to discuss backing the shoes off to get the hub off 👍🏻

This video gave me more insight about my brake system. It was perfect for my Subaru. Thanks

Great video to use when changing Subaru Forester rear brakes. I like the tip for the wire brush to clean the hub.

Thanks so much for the great video...helped a ton .much appreciated

sweet tip for the carrier! will have to slightly file the tangs/ears on the brake pads to ensure they slide properly! will now have to implement that in all my brake jobs!

@TwoFourSevenDIY

3 ай бұрын

Manufacturer also plays a part. I used to always use power stop pads and they always needed to be filed. I've since switched to Centric which almost always fit prefectly.

Great! easy to follow and complete instructions

@TwoFourSevenDIY

Жыл бұрын

Thanks! Glad you found it helpful!

Great video! I feel prepared to do my Suby brakes now.

@TwoFourSevenDIY

11 ай бұрын

Glad you liked the video!

Very good video. I am about to order front and rear pads and rotors for my wife's 2012 Forrester. I have not accomplished this task before so your vid is quite informative for me.

@TwoFourSevenDIY

Жыл бұрын

Thanks man, I'm glad you found it helpful!

This video is awesome, this same thing (brake pads worn to metal) just happened to my wife's 2011 Forester.

@TwoFourSevenDIY

7 ай бұрын

Glad the video was helpful!

Thanks. Great job. Great video work also.

@TwoFourSevenDIY

Жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Great video, fully explain I have same car.

@TwoFourSevenDIY

Жыл бұрын

Thanks!

Thanks for the information!!

@TwoFourSevenDIY

Жыл бұрын

No problem!

Fantastic video well done my friend I’ve always done my own brake pads but I’ve never filed the lags like you do it but I’ve often wondered if that should be done thank you very much🇬🇧🇬🇧

@TwoFourSevenDIY

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the kind words. I can't say if it's an "industry recommended" technique, but I've always found that if I don't file them down they just end up sticking a few thousand miles after a pad change because the fit is just way to tight

@davidwhittaker9511

Жыл бұрын

@@TwoFourSevenDIY I agree, this is a regular practice the guys use to service disc brakes at the race track. A little clearance goes a long way to allow the pads to retract from the rotor surface quicker after your foot comes off the brake pedal. Lets air get in between the pad and rotor sooner to cool off the pad surface before applied again on the next turn. This helps keep your brake fluid cooler so less fading. These tricks allow you to brake later going into the turns. Gaining 1/10th of a second by braking later on a 10 turn track gains 1 second/lap.

Thank you very nice

@TwoFourSevenDIY

Жыл бұрын

No problem!

Very informative & detailed brake service video. Would you agree that installing the pad squealer on the inside with the tab placed on the rotor's leading edge to be the best practice? Does not seem to be a best practice for this. It will make a difference near the end of pad life whether or not the squealer will indicate with noise with vehicle going forward or backwards, depending if tab is installed on rotor's leading edge or trailing edge direction. Really well done! Thanks

@TwoFourSevenDIY

Жыл бұрын

Thank you for the compliments! I'm honestly not sure the squealer makes a difference, I've seen it installed on both inside or outside pads in the past. Personally I've never found them to be a reliable indicator of worn pads so I just make sure to keep an eye on pad life each time I swap my tires over at season end.

Great video very informative 👍probably a silly question but when removing disc I take it hand brake should be off?thanks

@TwoFourSevenDIY

Жыл бұрын

Yea. Not silly question, I still leave it on by mistake from time to time, takes me a minute to figure out why it won't come off lol

Great video! Just one question, Do you have to bleed your brakes after changing the pads? I’ve never changed my brakes before but I’ve always thought you had to?

@TwoFourSevenDIY

Жыл бұрын

Nope. No need a all. Only time bleeding is nessessary is if part of the brake fluid system is disconnected ... for example, replacing a caliper.

Thanks. 11:14, aren't the caliper bracket bolts the right size to use to press off the rotor?

@TwoFourSevenDIY

Жыл бұрын

The ones that bolt to the slider pins? Possibly, I wouldn't risk screwing up the threads using them, sometimes the rotors are on there pretty good and it kind of galls up the threads

It would be nice to have a list of everything needed, used, and bought for this project.

@TwoFourSevenDIY

2 ай бұрын

Rear rotors (2012 Forester) Rear pad set (2012 forester)

@dmc4coolcat

Ай бұрын

@@TwoFourSevenDIY i was looking more for a complete list. Like what tools (and their sizing) and chemicals do you use. You used more than just a new rotor and brake pads. thank you for the reply.

@TwoFourSevenDIY

Ай бұрын

I'm not sure how to answer your question ... you can see the tools I used in the video. Only materials used were rotors and a brake pad set ... brake clean to clean the rotors which is obvious. The pad set comes with new shims and grease, I just use my preferred brand of grease

I just had the same problem with the irregular pad wear. I found that the pad with the squeal tab has an extra rivit pin on the back side. The fork on the caliber bracket falls right on the extra pin causing uneven pressure on the brake pad. This is causing the irregular and excessive wear. grind the extra rivit off.

@TwoFourSevenDIY

9 ай бұрын

I'll definitely have to check that out next time I look at the brakes. Thanks for the heads up!

What type of tires do you have? Tire size? I have a 2010 forester XT. Great Video

@TwoFourSevenDIY

Жыл бұрын

I bumped up from 16" wheels to 17" but wanted to keep the sidewall roughly the same size so I went with 225/60/17 My understanding is that any bigger than this and you start rubbing. When brand new at full droop there was only maybe 1/4" clearance between the tire and front inner wheel well plastic in the rear

Anybody have the torque specs for the caliper bolts? On some Hondas it's around 75ft/lb for the caliper bracket and 25ft/lb for the pad bolts

@TwoFourSevenDIY

Жыл бұрын

Front Fill Nipple - 5.9 ft-lb Caliper - 19.9 ft-lb Caliper Support - 59 ft-lb Rear Fill Nipple - 5.9 ft-lb Caliper - 19.9 ft-lb Caliper Support - 48.7 ft

@minyoungc_

Жыл бұрын

​@@TwoFourSevenDIY You're a bro, thanks.

Might not hurt to use proper torque spec on bracket and caliper.

@TwoFourSevenDIY

Жыл бұрын

Been wrenching since I learned to drive, in my opinion there is no need for torque values here. They just need to be tight enough to not loosen up and not too tight to snap. I'm not saying there is anything wrong with using torque values, but trust me, even dealership mechanics won't bother putting a torque wrenches to bolts such as these ones.