You have shared so much knowledge with this video. My guess is many are too scared and end up taking it to a repair shop because there should be way more comments.

Great video!

Very helpful for my ML350 AC work. Thank you.

@3dviewlogic

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you glad it was helpful

Your the man, helped a lot!

@3dviewlogic

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you Jason, appreciate your comment.

nice video

Thank you very much for the info. I have a 2010 ml350 bluetec so I suppose there are a some differences. For instance, I have (I think it is for the transmission) a cooler in front of the condenser. The condenser is between coolers therefore making it a pain to remove. Hopefully, I will not have to remove the bumper but lift it straight up and out. My compressor seems to be frozen. I know it is going to be a big job but don't want to spend thousands somewhere for labor.

@3dviewlogic

Жыл бұрын

Hey Wayne thank you for the comment. I hope your cooler wasn't too hard to get around. As per your compressor not kicking on after initial charge, I suppose it could be your low pressure switch but when that has happened to me, more often than not, I have overseen something. (vacuum, fuses, relays) Your Switch can be found by following the larger line coming into the compressor from from evaporator. I have put a picture of where it is located in my car here: docs.google.com/document/d/1oEB09-lNvtNEQNpajWEcBsWMq-Sp-c1CX6nAqm1EA_k/edit?usp=sharing you can quickly test the sensor by setting your voltmeter to ohmmeters and testing for continuity between leads . If you get continuity check for voltage directly at compressor, odds are something else is happening. I have seen people freezing an h-block by doing a quick liquid charge. Take your time(liquid on low, gas on high) it is safer to flip the can upside down when going into the high side and needle at bottom when going into liquid side. Unfortunately every job is unique, these are just some general guidelines.

@waynehendricks8187

Жыл бұрын

@@3dviewlogic Yes, You are right about having a good vacuum helps to charge the system. Troubleshooting with electronics is a real weakness for me but is so necessary to repairs. I did see something about AAC at the fuse box in the engine compartment and right side of passenger compartment. I will double check the trunk area. Wow, if I come up with a fix on your suggestions I need to compensate you. Thank you.

thanks helped alot on a r500

@3dviewlogic

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you for comment, Glad it could help.

@StroDshiesty1

3 жыл бұрын

@@3dviewlogic no problem & it is really hard to find guides on this model.

@3dviewlogic

3 жыл бұрын

@@StroDshiesty1 it sure is, which is why I decided to post this video. I am actually surprised there isn't much more help on these particular models. I am very satisfied with mine, I think they are good cars. If you ever have a question you think I might be able to help with, let me know. I try to keep up with mine although in actuality I am a BMW technician by trade. Also just so you know ALLDATA does have these models available, although somewhat limited, it better than nothing. you can use ALLDATADIY.com Thanks again! n19bmw@gmail.com

@3dviewlogic

3 жыл бұрын

@@StroDshiesty1 it should have 3-4 10mm bolts on top, then it is clipped at bottom. You need to be very careful with those clips they are very brittle. Use a flat head or a steel pick to unclip, then pull lightly.

7:07 is 17mm

whats your preferred method for leak checking? i have a 2009 ml320. replaced compressor, vacuum, recharged and worked for 2 days. Victory! so i thought. I'm going with a leak???what do you think? awesome video by the way, I used the correct orings and torqued. I have 149k miles

@3dviewlogic

2 жыл бұрын

Hi Ruan, thank you for comment. as far as leak testing, the standard is 30 inches of vacuum for 15-30minutes. I let mine sit for 1 Hr. just to make sure it wasn't creeping down. You definitely need a strong vacuum pump. 29 inches might be ok. a good pump will pull 30. It is also acceptable to pressurize system using 200lbs of nitrogen. It is an inert gas and wont harm anything. Whatever is accessible to you. If it worked and then stopped, I also think you leaked the refrigerant but that's easy to check, just re-plug the gauges. dyes are fine if you have a powerful good quality UV LIght. Blue point used to sale a strong UV light that you could only light up for few seconds due to heat, but this was my favorite. Modern blue lights seems weak and also highlight stuff not related to A/C. Now days you can get a sniffer from amazon also. So in short my preferred method was my blue point UV light followed by Nitrogen and soap and water spray.

@gogetter4491

Жыл бұрын

@@3dviewlogic Hi , my compressor clutch doesn't engauge. I believe there is 12 volts going to the wire leading to the compressor. So I have to assume that the compressor needs to be replaced like shown in this video. Correct? or is there something I'm missing in checking for clutch engaugement. Thanks Steve

@3dviewlogic

Жыл бұрын

Hey Steve if you can verify 12v at compressor clutch and no engagement, then I would assume your coil is not pulling the clutch. On this particular car you would need a new compressor.

@gogetter4491

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the info on the AC clutch and compressor. I will replace it as per your video. Another issue is that I have a P0451 code. I'm looking up the fuel tank pressure sensor location to see if it is easily accessed for possible replacement. If you could tell me a link to a video that you made, that would be helpful on diagnosing the problem. Thanks Again. Steve