Just wanted to say a big THANK YOU for not only posting this, but including all the socket sizes and the torque values. Just completed the job today on a 2005 Sienna and it worked so much easier thanks to this video! Appreciate you!

I've watched a lot of videos and it's interesting that there are different techniques. You lower the subframe, others loosen the top engine mount, another guy removed the side engine mount top bolt all the way out so he can slide it off. All good videos for teaching diyrs. Thank you for sharing yours!

@ValleyMobileAutomotive

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching! Yeah when the manual doesn't give good directions you have to think creatively to get the job done. The reason for removing the subframe was to limit how high the engine gets lifted to avoid possible stressing of harnesses, exhaust and CV joints. But others say that's not really a concern so next time I might try it differently just to see 👍

That's why you do both sides at a time. Thanks a lot for the tip! Btw, my shop asked $750 for the labor only. And yes, they said they need to remove the engine. Thanks again!

@timowens7214

Жыл бұрын

That's insane I just finished doing mine. Was a task but alot better diy especially if you have the tools

@darrenmcintosh326

Жыл бұрын

Toyota wants $500 materials $1500 labor

@alexwalker8422

8 ай бұрын

​​@@timowens7214yeah, it was avoidable too, super easy to accommodate a bolt with its head pointed down instead of up or scooted over a bit so you can fit a socket over it without removing the motor mount. But Toyota, as far back as 2004 if not earlier, was doing their best to inhibit our escape from the dealership mechanic tax without being super obvious about it, unlike Chrysler who puts their batteries where you have to remove the front wheel of your vehicle to replace or repair them.

You're my new Sienna Hero. I don't know why you only got 10k subs.

@ValleyMobileAutomotive

Жыл бұрын

Thanks PNP! Glad these videos have been helpful 👍

Will do my second this week. My first was exactly as you did yours. I even grounded down a box end key too. Thanks.

@ValleyMobileAutomotive

4 ай бұрын

Nice! 👍

Great video! I’ll likely use your method right up front, rather than cranking the transmission way up. Q: what did you torque the smaller cradle bracket screws adjacent to the larger screws (bolts…) that you used thread lock and torqued to 65ft-lbs? Great approach-seemed more complex at first but actually looks faster and safer than cranking and prying at the mount.

Thanks man, this is crucial content !

@ValleyMobileAutomotive

8 күн бұрын

@@JohnG-rj2ib Glad this was helpful 👍

Great video. Why hasn't anyone invented a way to just replace or fix the bushing and not the whole damn arm?!!!

Hiya, Love this video. UPDATE: Found out that the engine came down with the undercarriage, so I started over and STARTED with the engine supported by a jack, that helped a lot. Still was worried about how much I could jack up the engine, so I took it up enough to unscrew the top bolt from the left engine mount (another person's video clued me in to this). That worked. Saved me from having to jack up the engine another inch and 1/4. OLD: Unfortunately, I still can't even get close to enough room to get that sucka out. I've done all you said, including remove the top engine bone bracket, removed all bolts from the front engine mount, and loosened the R side engine mount as much as possible without taking off the nuts, the only other engine mount, which I haven't taken off, is the small one just to the rear of the Right side engine mount. I double checked all bolts to be sure nothing is still tight or connected. The left side motor mount is loose so it's not what's hanging on. YET, everytime I jack up the engine a fraction of an inch, the whole sub frame lifts with it. If i use a crow bar the subframe moves at most a 1/2 inch at full power. I don't know if an ALL wheel drive is any different than your vid. The rear axle does NOT look to be connected to the subframe.

@phillippardo5712

Жыл бұрын

Was the front differential hitting the steering rack? I'm curious if you ever got this sorted out?

@mikee8304

Жыл бұрын

Lift trans not engine? For the driver side

@SuperMan-uj7dh

Жыл бұрын

The siennas, venzas, highlanders and rx350 have a 5th rear mount. you have to loosen that too.

I am enjoy watching your video. You are an expert on this job. My local dealer will charge me for 5 to 6 hrs of labor? I did not let them fix. & went to independent shop for less $.

@ValleyMobileAutomotive

2 жыл бұрын

Hey thanks! Yeah dealer prices are insane!

I have a 04 rx330 and have watched a lot of videos but yours by far is the better detailed and saved me a headache. Great job and Thanks!

@ValleyMobileAutomotive

2 жыл бұрын

Awesome! Glad this was helpful 👍

@chikosneff

2 жыл бұрын

Did you follow this method for the Rx?

@fbanda20

4 ай бұрын

I think it’s the same exact method and layout for an rx330 I’m about to embark on this journey myself. Thanks

Wow!!! I I followed all your steps. You saved me a lot of money. I did struggle for a hour trying to install the new one. Then I took the ball joint off & got it to go. Now what about the other side?

@ValleyMobileAutomotive

Жыл бұрын

Awesome! Glad this helped. I had to take the ball joint off mine as well. The other side is much easier. You don't need to lower the subframe to remove it.

Wish I’d have watched ur video about 3 weeks ago. All videos I watched did the easier passenger side. I did both sides so I can say this side seemed harder. Especially since I had not watched this video

I just changed both sides on my van and lucky for me, the trans/motor mount bolt threaded out of the mount instead of the nut coming off. Made it pretty simple.

@AbcAbc-sp1od

Жыл бұрын

You were lucky. Was the trans mount an aftermarket mount? Because I don't think the oem original mount bolt can unscrew?

@terrydueck1776

Жыл бұрын

@@AbcAbc-sp1odi could be wrong but I don’t think so. I’ve had the van for 10 years. Was 4 years old when I bought it with 70k miles/113k kms. Saved myself $1250 doing both control arms, tierod ends and spark plugs working on it 2 Saturdays. Just over 10 hours all together.

@AbcAbc-sp1od

Жыл бұрын

@@terrydueck1776 Your van is a Toyota sienna, right? If so, then I'll have to pray that your right. Because I'm about to attempt the drivers side control arm, and it would help immensely if the mount bolt can screw out of the mount lol! I don't wanna jack up the engine to much. Btw, nice job with saving that dough! Dyi repair is satisfying, plus it saves you from exorbitant shop charges lol!

@terrydueck1776

Жыл бұрын

@@AbcAbc-sp1odyes it’s a 2009 Sienna. I didn’t expect it to unscrew as the nut did break loose initially but I guess because the threads were dirty it had enough friction for the bolt to break loose inside the mount. Good luck.

@AbcAbc-sp1od

Жыл бұрын

@@terrydueck1776 thanks!

Excellent job 👏

Your the best! This video was so helpful ! Thank you so much

Good video but what a PITA unbolt almost half of the engine just for the control arm

@telecasterman18

11 ай бұрын

Seriously though!!! The engine mounts aren’t any better either.

@alexwalker8422

8 ай бұрын

​@@telecasterman18yeah Toyota was trying to funnel everybody to the dealership mechanic all the way back in 04 🤦🤮

Your Awesome Bro!!!! Thanks for posting this!

Thank you very much

Thanks so much. You do a great job of explaining and your video editing to show all the important steps are superb. Love your videos.

@ValleyMobileAutomotive

Жыл бұрын

Thanks Joey! I appreciate that 👍

Great video. Really appreciate it!

Thanks!

@ValleyMobileAutomotive

26 күн бұрын

@@ericbuhman5243 Thanks! Glad this video was helpful 🙂

I've had trouble removing the BJ nut off like what you do due to rust and ended up rounding it, the solution was to remove the axle. More steps but it did the trick.

@never2be07

2 жыл бұрын

Yup, the stupid cotter pin was welded in the whole with rust. I used an air chisel just to loosen the nut and then I was able to use the open wrench again to walk it out.

@XXarmyboyXX1216

Жыл бұрын

Yea this was the hardest part of the job imo. Anyone in the rust belt beware. Try your hardest to take out the cotter pin or you’ll have to pop out the axle just enough in order to get a swivel socket in there to remove the castle nut. It’s possible to squeeze this without removing the brake assembly or any other components

@adrianw7680

Жыл бұрын

@@XXarmyboyXX1216 You can shave down a 19mm so it slips in. Another youtube video suggested this.

Thanks for your video, this will help when I replace my control arms. I'm interested to know what aftermarket control arms did you get for this vehicle and how are they holding up?

@Yahuah_Is_El

Жыл бұрын

These look like mevotech as the blue bushings give it away. I am told these are the best aftermarket you can get. Just bought a whole set on rockauto

My car is Camry, I got your idea how to remove the transmission mount easier but what I did just loose nuts of motor mount jack Engine a litle, can remove it but I had remove the dog bone at first.

@ValleyMobileAutomotive

3 ай бұрын

Good work 👍

Saving 3500 for sure.. thanks

@sagacious11

2 жыл бұрын

😭😜

@adventureoflinkmk2

Жыл бұрын

3500 bucks? Damn why so much

@notiratskie8955

Жыл бұрын

@@adventureoflinkmk2 I believe it was from watching this whole sienna series, not just this. I changed everything on my wife's watching these videos.

@adventureoflinkmk2

Жыл бұрын

@@notiratskie8955 oh good.. was gonna ask what kinda shop was charging $3500 just for this job 😂

Thanks Robert! I'm test driving a 2004 Sienna this weekend and owner thinks control arms need replaced. What symptoms can I look for when I test drive? Car Care Nut said, "drive slowly and snap on the brakes, and the steering wheel or whole front end will jump to one side or the other."

@ValleyMobileAutomotive

2 ай бұрын

Depending on how bad the control arm bushings are. You may hear a quick clunk when you accelerate from a stop or when you put the brakes on. Basically the control arm is moving either forward or backward. The other way is a quick visual with the front end off the ground. Usually the rear bushing is the failure point.

@brianbender3431

2 ай бұрын

@@ValleyMobileAutomotive That is valuable info. Thank you!

For northern cars with the amount of rust, I wouldn’t pull those sub frame bolts. Ask me how I know. Lol. Broken sub frame bolt wasn’t fun

Excellent!

Hi!!! I have to put grease on the joint???. Thanks for the video

Hey valley automotive, thanks for the video, I have a 2008 Toyota solara SLE V6, that needs the same work you preformed in your video, would it be around the same time on a Solara. Very clean car with no rust issues underneath........Thanks.

@ValleyMobileAutomotive

2 жыл бұрын

Hey B.J I believe your Solara suspension set up is very similar to the Sienna in this video. Plan on a few hours depending on your wrenching skills. The torque specs may be different though I'm not sure.

Bro, maybe I missed it. You did not mention why you are replacing it. What symptoms you had.

Just curious… what was the underlining symptom that lead to this replacement?

@ValleyMobileAutomotive

Ай бұрын

Honestly I can't remember on this particular vehicle but a main symptom of worn out bushings is a clunking noise on acceleration or braking. A clunk can come from other components as well so make sure you check all the suspension where the noise is coming from. It is possible to have a torn/bad bushing without noise. If that's the case then you would still need to replace it but you would only see the tear visually.

Does that little square looming piece matter? I replaced the control arm but forgot to transfer it :/ any help would be appreciated.

@cbthethird

Жыл бұрын

Yes you have to put that on the new part or the bushings won't sit right and will wear prematurely.

Will this method work on a 2007 highlander?

Awesome!

Do you have video for the RH side?

Would this be the same for a Toyota Highlander ?

@ValleyMobileAutomotive

2 ай бұрын

I think it's similar. I'm not sure if the torque specs are the same though.

You are able to lift the transmission enough without taking any other frame breaks bolts off, it won’t damage anything unless you over do it

🌶 🌶 great 👍 job great 👍 advice great 👍 video thanks 👍

good Job, what about the right side?

Good video

@ValleyMobileAutomotive

Жыл бұрын

Thanks Angel 👍

how many hours would you say this took you? I'm being told engine and trans need to be out/ loosened to perform this service. and the quote is 2400$! ahh!

@ValleyMobileAutomotive

3 ай бұрын

If you have a decent grasp of mechanics you can have this done in a couple hours. All the manuals I've looked at say to remove the engine. So most shops will quote you for that labor time.

Really dumb question here...what does it mean to lock tite...or tight?

@ValleyMobileAutomotive

5 ай бұрын

Not a dumb question at all. Loctite is a brand that makes a product you put on the bolt threads that keep it from loosening. Kind of like a thread glue. There are different colors that match different strengths. For this you want the blue one. Any brand is fine 👍

@micahday1

5 ай бұрын

@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Thanks a TON for the response!!! Really appreciate this video, we'll see how this weekend goes 🤪

I think that if you loosen the torque strut mount top of engine pass side. Wont have to take apart the cross member to get the tranny mount out

@ValleyMobileAutomotive

2 жыл бұрын

Hey Andrew. Someone commented that you can remove the front engine mount and that's enough to jack the engine high enough without lowering the subframe. One thing to be careful with is putting to much stress on cv axle, wiring harness and other parts when jacking up that much. If everything looks good then I think the less you have to do the better.

@pnp8849

Жыл бұрын

@@ValleyMobileAutomotive In Sienna forum someone lifted too much the CV Y-bearing separated from it housing. Talking about DIY nightmare.

@armchairtin-kicker503

Жыл бұрын

​@@pnp8849 Having sacrificed a few Cv axle nuts replacing axles, seals, and wheel bearings, I would not give it a second thought sacrificing another to replace a control arm. As of this date, a Cv axle nuts is roughly $16 from the Toyota dealer.

I’m replacing both LCA’s and the cv axles. Does this method work just as well with the passenger side?

@ValleyMobileAutomotive

2 жыл бұрын

If I'm not mistaken the passenger side is much easier and may not need as much removed.

@cbthethird

Жыл бұрын

@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Passenger side will be easier. The top dogbone mount comes off then just carefully jack it until you have the clearance for the mount to come off.

Fucking goated just saved me so much time and money

How long did this job take?

@ValleyMobileAutomotive

2 жыл бұрын

It took me about 2hrs to complete while filming. But depending on the condition of your bolts and your individual skill level it may take longer or you may be able to do it faster.

Unfortunately this is good to know.

The easy part is getting the control arm out show us how to get it back in you fast-forward through that

@ValleyMobileAutomotive

Жыл бұрын

The ball joint needs to come off the new control arm. Then it will slide in much easier.

Could've had the bolt head of the frontmost bolt of the front control arm bushing stick out of the bottom of the control arm but even back in 2004 they were trying to force everybody to the dealership mechanics like a bunch of pathetic chrysler engineers.