I watched your video before I replaced the intake manifold on my 4.6 1997 Thunderbird. A little different, but very similar. I never would have attempted it myself prior to watching this video. Very informative. Works great. Thank you very much!

Excellent video on a pain in the butt job. I can't count how many of these I have done as I work on a fleet of Crown Vic Police cars. You video gives the average man/woman the confidence to tackle this job.

Thanks for the video, I followed your instructions finished changing my intake manifold on my 2003 Lincoln Town Car yesterday, the hardest part is taking off the bracket on the back right side, damn!!!!! But car runs great, thank u :-)

@RR-ce9tu

Жыл бұрын

How did u take the braket off im stuck on that part

Hey man, Just want to thank you for the amazing video. I'm not even a car guy, but i watched it all the way through, took three pages of notes, then went and did it. It took me basically an entire Saturday, but you saved me AT LEAST $500. Thank you so much! Very thorough video.

We just changed ours out with your videos thank you!!!

Thanks-A-Million for both vids Part 1 & 2. Very helpful. I just finished the intake manifold on dad town car. Ur vids saved him hundreds of dollars. Thank you!!!!!

@Piedmont42 Sorry you have to go through the dreaded intake manifold replacement, but thanks for the comment and I am glad that we were able to help :)

Thanks. Would not have tackled this job without this video. My son and I replaced the manifold on my 98 Lincoln Town Car. We could not get to the bolt holding on the big bracket. Pulled on it and was able to rotate couple of inches toward the driver's side. We were able to shift stuff around and slide the manifold out. The Dorman manifold had a defect - putting in the bolts. Front right hole did not line up. Had to remove the insert, cut it in half to get the bolt to line up. Runs great now.

After having switched mine on a 99 Lincoln I have a couple of comments. I have 230,000 miles on it before it needed replacing. So yes the originals are pretty durable but not as good as these newer replacements. There is no way on earth I can fit my big hands behind the engine. I can get one finger at a time. So even though the metal in that bracket looks heavy it is soft and bends easy. I just stuck a couple of blocks of wood on the old manifold and with a- pry bar bent it up. After you pull the old manifold out. I found a large steel plate back there with a 13mm bolt at the bottom of the valley center then another 13mm nut near the worthless bracket. And a15mm bolt into the head. When I put it back in I just cut off everything towards the back of the bracket and used the front part that I needed. This bracket does nothing except one thing. A hook location for hoisting the engine at the factory for installation, or removal. If my engine happins to blow since the car books for 1200 I would never replace it anyway. And I am certain I could figure out some where to snag it .For those of you who have very little patience with poor engineers or big hands just rip that mother out

@APDTY

9 жыл бұрын

Great comments, especially about that troublesome bracket. Many people have difficulty getting to that back bolt as it is close to impossible.

@josebeltran702

9 жыл бұрын

Auto Parts Direct To You what size is that back built on the bracket?

@Eagleguts

9 жыл бұрын

Jose Beltran I barely remember but it is a stud I think with a 13 mm and part of it comes off and under it is I think a 15mm

Notice the heater core hose running un the center directly under the intake manifold.this is a perfect time to replace it. Depending of course on it's condition and whether or not you like removing the intake.

Crazy!! The guy at the parts store was like you can do this repair, and after watching this video, I'll stick to upholstery and furniture refinishing. Holy hell this is a nut and bolt affair for those with wrenches for hands. Great video and this is why good mechanics get my respect, it's an art form.

Thanks a lot , this video proved to be an invaluable guide to replace the intake manifold on my mercury grand marquis 1999. i replaced mine perfectly by just following the instructions in it

Man this is great. Drinkin a brew and lookin at cars. Beautiful

I'm grateful for your video! I'm glad I took your advice of leaving the EGR in place. Another video I watched made that look like WWIII (torch under the car, and all!) One thing that I would add, though. I've got great big hands, and I'll be darned if I can get to the lower bolt on the "Bracket From Hell"! Maybe the harness is fatter on my 2002? At any rate, it really wasn't too hard to pull the wiper arms and take the whole wiper tray assembly off. Then there's a ton of room to access the hell bracket, with direct line of sight. Again, though, thanks for the detailed video. You did a fantastic job!!

Thanks for the video it helped alot last night taking the old one off. I did find out the 1996 4.6 has a few differences but nothing big. Thanks again for the videos !! The ford dealership wanted 1300 to swap it out, they said it take 6-7 hours to do it. Hell took me an hour and a half to remove the old one and an hour or so to put the new one on thanks to this video!!

@bradley841999 I used a mini 90 degree die grinder, with 2" Gasket Surface Prep Discs. Thanks for the comment!

Ended up taking off the wiper assembely and shield gave me lots more room and can actually see what your doing

I replaced the intake manifold on my 4.6 liter with a Dorman model ordered through Amazon. It had a hair line crack slowly leaking coolant where the heater hose connects to the back of the manifold. If you've worked on cars at all, you can do this. A few pointers: Take pictures beforehand of the configuration of hoses and harnesses. Buy and replace injector O rings (two on each injector). Put every bolt and part you remove in separate plastic baggies with a note explaining what it belongs to.

@jjsmnow Thanks! On this model year, Ford had done away with the rubber hose on the intake, if you look carefully at the intake valley, you will see it is now a solid metal pipe under there. But I definately agree, if someone is working on the engine with the rubber hose under the intake, it should be changed while the intake is off.

This is a great video and it helped me change the Intake Manifold on my 2003 Mustang Gt there aren't as many part on a mustang as on the Lincoln but its like 98% the same. Thanks!

Thank you sir. You helped a lot of people. Blessings.

THANK YOU! my intake is still good, and, thankfully, i only have to replace the gasket. still, i'd be pretty clueless without this video....

@APDTY THANKS. i've tried the wd-40 all day. i've considered ( but probably won't try) sawing a notch and using a flat head screw driver. but thank you

I agree, the earlier versions of this engine were notorious for that hose going out. On the later versions of this engine however, they replaced that hose with a solid metal pipe like this car had. If it had that hose which is notorious for failing, I would have certainly replaced it while in there. Thanks for the tip.

@TheDarrenMobley If I remember correctly, it is a 5/16" (same as an 8mm)

Great Video Thank YOU You should also show at the end or make another tape about the water pump rubber hose that is under the intake manfold you took off. You need to replace that since you have gone this far.

@malleymyster Not necessarily, it is designed to be a factory-style replacement, unfortunately it is not a performance upgrade, Thanks!

Great video, thanks for your hard work on this.

Very informative video i will attempt to do mine soon. thanks for a great video

thanks a ton for the video, i did this for my brother car, the only thing i did different was I took the windshield wiper unit pices off and that helped a bunch to get that rear 2 bolts, i could not get my hand behind the engine like you did, had to be a pain to do that. 9:07

You may be able to get the entire intake off without removing the fuel rails, but you will have much easier access to all the intake manifold bolts by removing it first. The fuel rail is simple to take off and will save headache by doing so.

@amurican35 I will usually feed the zip-tie between the two wires (keeps it from slipping off either side) and then around the back of the injector. And yeah, that bracket can definitely be a pain, Glad you were able to get it.

this video really help me out im ganna do this upgrade on my pony this weekend

Starting at 9:00 in the video,, We tried to explain the best we can on how that bracket is held on, hopefully that will help? Try watching that section up until 10:15. I agree that bracket is the most difficult part of the job.

I hate dealing with gaskets and rtv. I think I'll use something like this great video much better than reading how to do it.

@ajayers84 The easiest way is to pull the Fuel pump relay out of the car, and try to start it,, it should run for a second or two and shut off when all the fuel pressure is gone. Just don't forget to reinstall the fuel pump relay.

The first nut is a 13mm, then you have to remove a bracket (I had to loosen the bracket by backing out the other bracket bolt (13mm) to get it loose enough to slide off) and then you need a 15mm to remove the bracket mounted on the cylinder head. I highly recommend using a swivel head ratchet wrench.

Here are the parts we used available at Amazon (Match Your Model Year): Intake Manifold Kit Fits Late Models Most 2001-2010, Includes 1999-2000 Mustang: "www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BPZ30R4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00BPZ30R4&linkCode=as2&tag=aupaditoyo-20&linkId=7YM46FO6WJYQQMDQ" Intake Manifold Kit Fits Early Models 1996-2000 Except 1999-2000 Mustang: "www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BI3H114/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00BI3H114&linkCode=as2&tag=aupaditoyo-20&linkId=JEC3UKKIULTA2ZN6" Coolant/Heater Hose That Runs Under The Intake Manifold: 1996-1997 Models: "www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K7J5R8E/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00K7J5R8E&linkCode=as2&tag=aupaditoyo-20&linkId=SUJYEQJLSOL4VFSM" 1998-2000 Models: "www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMWI1O6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00CMWI1O6&linkCode=as2&tag=aupaditoyo-20&linkId=BNCZSSLR4BQIJIAH" "www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMWI0CO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00CMWI0CO&linkCode=as2&tag=aupaditoyo-20&linkId=NZJNBHIJXRL6LX7O"

Even though the car has low miles, it is still almost 13 years old, so I would keep an eye on the intake. Just keep a close eye on it and if you see any sign of coolant leaking, or any cracks developing, go ahead and replace it at that time. It also wouldn't hurt to do the repair as preventative maintenance, that way you wouldn't have to worry about it failing in the future.

holy crap there's so much stuff to undo in order to replace an intake manifold...jeez

Just did this on my 06 crown vic. Not leaking coolant anymore but she runs rough. I told my cousin, who was helping me, that I was gonna drain the coolant before I got to do that he had already taken the bolts off the passenger side of the intake so coolant got into the passenger side spark plug holes. The check engine light came on. So today I took out the 4 coil packs and the 2 spark plugs I could get out (1st and 2nd one) the plugs were fine so I just dried them and put them back in.

The cure to the bracket...... remove the master cylinder "2 nuts" remove brake vacuum booster 4 nuts on the firewall and the BOO switch "Brake operating on/off switch pull out the booster and you can reach right in and get the back bracket bolts

R2rocketeer. You have to remove the brake booster to remove the valve cover on that side. It's pretty easy. Just did it to mine.

Apparently there are more than one design on that bracket because another site says it's impossible to reach the bracket nuts/bolts with removing the windshield wiper motor, and housing etc. and I can feel anything but the wiring harness with my hands.

great video, Thanks! have a great day!

@APDTY Yes the tabs, I've been looking for replacements. Your idea sounds better, I'd rather have zip ties than having electrical tape over the wires. Very hard to find new ones, must be a dealer item. That's gonna be expensive. Do you feed the tie through the tab housing and back around the body of the injector? The metal bracket thats over the back of the manifold was the hardest part. My Marquis had a second metal plate that was attached to the same bolt. Great video thanks.

I did this job back in 2011 it's wasn't a leak I just stay at the gas station alot

The only thing I would add to your video would be to blow around the intake runners where they meet the head with compressed air before removing the intake just to keep any debris from falling down the intake ports when the intake is removed.

Thanks for telling us what size that bracket nut/bolt was...

Near the end of this video at 14:35 he has the manifold off and is checking it out and points to the "heater passage" at the firewall end of the manifold and says that's a common place for cracks to form and coolant leaks. That's the problem I have. There's a hairline crack and coolant is ozing out and filling up the number 4 spark plug well causing a misfire. I wonder if JB Weld would fix the leak? Probably not but its worth a try. I think I can do a manifold replacement after watching this.

Just replaced mine today! took like 2 and a half days..if you think when you do yours , it's going to be like when he does it, wrong! they make it look so easy and simple, every thing is going to disconnect nicely, hoses pull right off no problem LOL! not happening.. i just left hose connected to thermostat housing, and removed , after emoving housing , spray with PB blaster , then tao lighty, will come right off. it, just t unscrewed fuel rail and pulled it back gently,, replace with new o rings ..to get hat bolt off that bracket over fule rail, the easiest way is to remove windshield wipers and cowel . 3 screws hold it . 2 on drivers side and one on passenger side, pull it down you can move it completely out the way and get that tough bolt in back of motor. don't put the cowel back until you bolt down throttle body . dont forget to drain some anti freeze , you'll need one gallon of new anti freeze to top it off. that plug he's telling you about to leave out, secure that and just fill as needed. used engine degrreaser to clean matting surface and razor blade. good luck.

Yeah with the fuel rails and inj hooked up i used some wd-40 first and sprayed the manifold bores and wiggled them around for a min and pulled up on them and they came right out i'd try that next time so you might not have to buy o rings.

Can you access the heater hose clamps on the heater core without removing the cowl?

I did this on a 1996 Marquis - looks the same - I didn't have to remove the alternator or the bottom of the EGR tube - just wiggled the intake manifold out around them...

Any air that manages to get into the fuel lines will immediately flush itself out, so that won't be an issue. Is your check engine light on? That would be the first place to check, you would need to find out which codes are in the system and diagnose them one at a time.

We do not have a video for that particular intake manifold replacement, but it is similar to this one, you should be able to use this video as a "template" for your job, it's almost identical.

also on that extra bolt just leave it off in the back doesnt cause any harm im a ford tech at a dealer for 11 yrs and we were changing em out as part of the recall of certain models the long bolt holding on top is more than enough...yeah the injector clips always break zip tie is good just dont ever glue them in i came across many where sum ppl siliconed them lol great vid

Hey like your video but on the back backet they are two bolt to take off instead of one, them you can take off the bolt that hold on the other backet at time 8:30. I have a 2001 Towncar carter 4.6L. maybe it was different.detween the years.

@amurican35 Are you talking about the tabs that you squeeze when you go to pull off the injector? If that's all that broke, you can usually hold them just fine with a zip-tie around the injector and hooked around the connector.

If you have a plastic riser and the sits on top does that part have to be removed and set the new intake over the plastic riser?

What tool did u use to take out the bolt from the braket thats on top of the fuel rail the bolt thats behind the engine

in my 2002 crown vic lx the manifold already has the aluminum piece in the front should i just change the gaskets or just replace the whole cover?

That’s a crown Vic just did a 99 town car have no space hood cowl covers the rear of engine took 4 hrs that bolt in the rear was a mother fr heat shield for the fuel rail

I'm still trying to get the bracket bolt off the back of engine it appears to have a plastic "t" type attached to it and I'm unable to detach it?

Tracking down a coolant loss, I've come to the conclusion that it is seeping out from the intake manifold gasket in a couple of places and also from the gasket that goes between the aluminum crossover (the manifold has been previously upgraded) and the plastic part of the manifold. Bolts are properly torqued. Do these gaskets leak without their being any cracks? Also, what gaskets are included in a gasket set? I need that one I mentioned that goes between the alum crossover and plastic manifold.

@malleymyster Does it seem like they are seized in the cylinder head? If they are, you might have some luck by soaking them in penetrating oil, after they soak for a while, tap on the heads of the bolts with a small hammer, this can help free up the rust that is built up on the threads of the bolts. Good luck!

freak N OUTSTANDING VIDEO ABSOLUTELY INFORMING.

Hi I got some tips that may help you do this job. And yes most of the fuel injector plug tabs brake off when removing them from dry rot, just zip tie them much cheaper then replacing the plugs and holds better then stock tabs ever did. Save your self an hr. and getting pissed off get a set of Flex-head Ratchet wrenches in MM size13,14,15 one of them for that rear head bolt bracket set up you can thank me later. Good luck

Do you have one for a mustang gt 02 or is it the same process since Lincoln crown Victoria carry that same motor like the mustang if u do have a video please let,me know and.thank you appreciate the video of how to unistall a manifold new thing i learn today

to replace them, you'd have to source new fuel injector pigtail connectors and cut the old ones off and solder on the new ones.

What wrench did you use to get bolt off the bracket by the fire wall

My 2000 Grand Marquis has 65,800 miles (approx) on it and runs great.. When should I have to worry about the intake manifold?

The bracket that sits over that bracket that curves over the drivers side rear of the engine, is it just one bold that holds the lower bracket in place alone with the one bolt that holds the upper bracket one? I hope this makes sense lol, I am doing this to my 98 Vic and am stuck on this spot. Every thing else has come apart pretty easy but this has me stuck.

i had not seen the video and when i was taking the intake out i accidentally broke the EGR tube near the bottom part and am trying to get it out so i can install a new one and am having a hard tine reaching down there.any advice on how to go this and what is the right tool to use?

hello-i have a 1997 e150 van with 4.6 v8 coolant return tube leaking at back of intake on right side-is that metal tube press fit into intake or screwed in-can i cut tube and unscrew or remove tube and insert brass fitting into hole and reattach heater hose-im trying to fix this without doing intake gasket-thx for your help

@maxim5and20 did you find your problem yet?? how about the ground that mounts to the fuel bracket

GREAT KIT! INSTALLED IT IN MY 99 P71 IN LESS THAN COUPLE HOURS, SUPER QAULITY AND EASY INSTALLATION.

I have a 99 crown victoria, I have three bolts that will not budge that are holding the intake on. any idea on how to get these loose.

Okay, so I have to remove my intake manifold to get to the radiator hose that reside beneath it. I was wondering do I have to take each piece off (as shown in the video) or can I just carefully remove the entire manifold with throttle body, fuel rails, etc, all still attached?

I have a 95Lincoln town car the motor locked up so i got a motor out of a 97 Lincoln town car. The intake was different but i changed it and now i can't get it to crank. Im not getting any fire from the spark plugs. Csn you help me or give me a ideal of what it may be.

Not at all, The manifold is designed to have the exact same specifications as the original intakes. The 2003 Police Interceptor uses the 4.6L PI engine, and the intake we carry for the 2003 is designed for that engine.

The 1994 engine will be different, we don't have any videos on that particular one. The good news is that you should have an all aluminum intake and will likely not be needing to do this repair.

Unfortunately I have no easy tricks to help get that EGR tube off. I have heard that in a worst case scenario, you can pull the evaporator housing out of the car and that might give you more access, but that is quite a difficult job in itself. Maybe you can pull the whole exhaust manifold out easier?

3 of the coil pack boots were cracked so I replaced them and put them all back in. Now shes still running rough but not as rough as it was a couple days ago. No check engine light also. Any ideas?

Do you have a video showing changing out a blower motor resistor on this model vehicle?

great work and very helpful, I got a ford explorer 2002 limited 4.6L V8 can you please tell me the spark plug sequence 1 to 8. thanks in advance

great video..good instructions thanks for this video bro..

Goin fine till I took the elec connectors off the injecters. The frikin clips broke off each one. Anyone know a fix ? Or if you can get new ones and splice them on to old wire harness?

and about the bracket nut its 13 size and the bolt on that is 15 size on my grand marquis 1999 , to remove the bracket u have to remove the smaller bracket which is on top of this bracket behind held by two bolts , on together with the front biger bracket and the other is a little towards left of the previous bolt, its the most tricky part in this whole process :)

This should of been a RECALL they should of fixed it Free!

@leonbrown3562

5 жыл бұрын

It was for a few years

Excellent Video, I followed your instruction and changed the intake on a 99 town car, unfortunately when i started it wont start, car turns over but wont start. Any idea what i should check for?

Hey do you have any advice about replacing the valve cover gaskets on a 4.6L 1997 Thunderbird? I'm trying to get the driver's side valve cover off but clearance is almost nonexistent in the back because of the brake booster and the mounts on the intake manifold. Do you have any advice for getting this cover off? Thanks!

I have a 2000 Town Car Cartier with a miss in it at random time. I have changed spark plugs as they were all not gaped correctly and were greatly aged. It now idles better, but still has random miss here and there often when going up hills. Could an intake manifold be the cause of this? If not, what other problems could cause a miss like this? BTW I also have a check engine light that does not register any COP problems, but my local repair shop seems to believe that is causing the problem

What size is the nut on the bracket mounted to the cylinder head?

on mine, the bolts the hold the termostat on won't come off? any suggestions?

What's the plastic box thing above the engine that you removed at 1:11 ?

My check engine light registers a pinhole leak in the fuel evap system, and the local repair shop says it should not cause the miss they and I can feel. I just bought the car and really would like it to run correctly, especially after putting 1500 in preventive maintenance on it just after purchase.

Freest video I am having trouble accessing the back bracket

@BIGMIKE0517 Hi bigmike0517 it sounds like you are at the toughest part of the whole job. Once you get the first nut off, there is a bracket that slides off of the stud, and behind that bracket there is a hex-head on the stud itself, that's what you need to gain access to. Once that stud is removed the whole bracket you are fighting with 'should' just come right off. Thanks!

i like the vidious i think they are very helpful