Your can remove all 8 spark plugs and coils without removing the fuel rails. The trick is to use a swivel adapter and your good to go. The procedure I follow on doing a spark plug job on the 2v modular motors is first, blow the engine off with air before doing anything. Next unbolt coil and inspect for damage or oil on the boot (replace if oil soaked or torn). Again, take air and Blow your spark plug well. Pull the spark plug out and take new Motorcraft spark plug and add a small dab of anti-seize to the plugs threads. thread the plug in by hand until it’s seated. torque it down to 20ish ft-lbs. Install coil and repeat the process. Never had any issues doing it this way or have I ever had a spark plug eject from the engine.

@darrenairey5938

2 жыл бұрын

Nice that is what I did as per ford teck maculoco and running great! Used msd blaster coils and motorcraft platnium plugs. Dont forget a dab of die electic grease on the coil tip! Its tight by the firwall but having various ratchets, extensions, and swivels makes it easier espeacially on the passenger where the plug well is on a weird angle from Ford using the same head casting! Also was able to bend coil pack up and around fuel rails!

@JohnnyReb2000

2 жыл бұрын

That's pretty much the same process I followed to change mine when I first bought my 2001. Haven't had any issues with the spark plugs ejecting either.

Bought my 2000 5.4 new. 320,000...no problems but i do my own work to it. Torque plugs to 22 lbs. No problems.

I appreciate your honesty. The GM 5.3 and 6.0 are definitely much easier to service, and the ignition coils last much longer. The Ford 2V is a great engine, as has been proven for decades. Unfortunately there are idiots (Scotty Kilmer) that post click-bait videos to bash one product while promoting another. I have liked and subscribed, because we need more objective videos like this that aren't just after clicks.

@Marco-fi6gv

2 жыл бұрын

Great points, especially about Scotty 🙄

@JohnnyReb2000

2 жыл бұрын

I love my 2001 F-150 5.4. I will say that the aluminum intake manifolds are way better than the plastic ones. Just had to replace the one on mine due to the typical failure where the crossover pipe bolts to the manifold. Really stupid design. I ended up finding an aluminum one from a 1999 and rerouted a few hoses to make it work. Now to address the issue of cylinder misfires due to the locking tabs on the ignition coil connectors breaking for the same reason the plastic intake manifolds fail.

@americanchauvinist1210

Жыл бұрын

Hey! I love Scotty I have become mechanically inclined because of him alone but I do agree he makes click bait but he still knows his shit! 🤙🇺🇸

I have had a few 5.4 -2 valve pick up, I have a 99, 2000, 01, and 04. I usually go with the Accel coils as they are a bit over $200.00 for a set of 8. All my trucks use natural gas as fuel. These were all government trucks and I got them all at auction. So far the 04's have been my favorite, the 04 factory coils are still working fine. With high gasoline prices these days, I am glad I bought these trucks. The price for natural gas in my area is $1.80 -$2.10. Per gallon equivalent. Unfortunately I haven't seen these at the auction in a while, they are great if there are enough fueling stations within your area.

Thanks for the video. I was a little surprised you pull the fuel rails to get to the plugs and COPs. I've done it without pulling the rails. I've done alot of videos improving the performance of the 5.4 2V. I love my 2002 XLT 4x4 ;)

My 5.4 2 valve has 402,000 on it and runs perfectly. The only problem with the 2 valve is don't follow the Ford specs for spark plug torque, just double that and no spark plug issues. I've done a tuneup recently on it and it wasn't THAT bad. All original powertrain too.

@ghetinknotabush8602

Жыл бұрын

This is good to read. I have a 97 5.4 2v w/ barely 100k. I hear some slop in a timing chain on start but no other issues. I figure it is wear/tear on PLASTIC timing chain guides. I am getting ready to inspect.

@SkorpyoTFC

5 ай бұрын

@@ghetinknotabush8602 The older SOHC chains tend to stretch easily. I'd grab a full service kit before you bother with the teardown, just so you can get it done once you're in.

@ghetinknotabush8602

5 ай бұрын

THANKS! i am very sure i have chain stretch issue on one side. Understanding other potential issues that some have, some do not until later helps confirm a timing repair is called for BEFORE worse happens. Have a good day!@@SkorpyoTFC

I'd watch the bogus Motorcraft plugs on the internet now also. I put 8 new ones on a 5.4 2v. 2000 miles later I got a dead hole miss on cylinder #5. Bought a new coil from FMC and still a miss. Bought a new injector from Bosch and still a miss. I told myself that it couldn't be plugs, 2000 miles since replacing. Replaced the plug knowing I was wasting my time. BINGO! FIXED. A bad plug. I'm 74 year old and have bought Motorcraft plugs my entire life never a bad piece. I'll never trust their parts department again. Threw the other 7 plugs away and replaced with NGK. Running like silk. JMHO.

I just did the plugs and wires last weekend on a 97 Econoline with a 5.4 l in it. It was a pain in the ass but the good thing was I did not have to even touch the fuel rail. Once you take the screw out you just have to pull the coil at an angle and it slides out right underneath the fuel rail. At first I was questionable I did think you needed to remove it but you don't. The difficult part for me is I accidentally dropped one of those screws into the spark plug hole and I couldn't find my magnet I was pissed cuz it was getting dark lol. The following day I pulled it out and got them done. In my opinion that was a little tricky with those tiny bolts and even more importantly unscrewing the spark plugs without damaging the threads because like you said how deep the wells are a lot of debris gets in them too so you have to make sure you blow out the cylinders before you put new plugs back in a lot of people make these mistakes and forget that but other than that you're good to go. To be honest with you at this point I could probably get it done in about an hour. Mechanics want four to $500 for this job in dealerships are even more.

I have the V10 2004 with 350000 miles runs like a champ.

My 1997 F150 5.4 has 319k on it now and I’m having my first problem. It needs a timing chain. I can’t complain.

Overall good video

My 98 has coil packs with a plug and wire set up, thank Jesus, my 01 I had this set up you are talking about and you are absolutely right its not pain

Great video! Its great to see where issues will arise BEFORE in the middle of doing a tune-up/coil swap. Also, you referred to but did not indulge in stock roller rocker issues with this video or the chain tension sensor/solenoid that blows a gasket at xxxK miles. Maybe a different video does?

I put Edelbrock coils in my 03 Lariat 5.4, haven't had a problem with them yet. They are kinda pricey though, about $220 or $230 from Oreillys.

Snapon makes a tool to install spark plugs in these vehicles so you can get proper torque specs.

2vs are fucking solid engines. Not the fastest but reliable as hell and take a beating. Honestly the 4r70 trans might be the biggest problem but that’s my opinion 🤷🏼‍♂️

@gt_drew2258

2 жыл бұрын

Yea u need a cooler and a shift kit for them to be good under power

@americanchauvinist1210

Жыл бұрын

I thought the 4 speed was a reliable trans?

@rhino6285

Ай бұрын

If the truck has a tow package that means 3.55 axle ratio and trans cooler which should make that 4 speed automatic last a long time

I did head gaskets and timing chains myself in my 5.4 triton 2v, 1999 250 SD,. Love that fact. The v10 or the diesel apparently the entire body has to come off. No thanks. 5.4 2v was simple, I also owned a 3v bit flipped it quick sounded like shit.

Love the video, what about that pipe from behind the water pump that runs under the intake to a hose on the rear of engine

Funny you mentioned the Chevy 5.3 I have a Tahoe as well. I actually like the 5.4 and 4.6 Ford motors. However I'm not a big fan of their EGR system it's way too much and overkill. And that aspect I definitely like the Chevy better much less of that going on much more simplified. In fact my Tahoe doesn't even have any EGR on it. Some of them do some of them don't that's how Chevy does it. The reason I'm bringing it up is because like you brought up the spark plug issue this is one of the main issues Ford houses are EGR systems in the carbon buildup in the intake throttle body EGR system eTC. And unlike Chevy in the Ford you cannot delete the EGR system.

I have a 2001 F150 gasoline, with similar mileage. 4x4, automatic. Original trans as far as I know. I bought it used around 2011. It was a city vehicle in AZ somewhere. 1. A/C was not working when I bought it. Knew that. They always say, oh probably just needs a recharge. Lol..not. $1,500 later, a/c works. Done at dealer. 2. There was a recall on the truck for it potentially catching on fire when parked due to an issue with the cruise control wiring I believe. Dealer fixed it, no charge at the time. They installed what looks like a big fusible link thing by the battery. 3. Plastic manifold on mine. Noted for the Nylon 66 it is made from, failing, if you do not keep up with coolant changes. Does the coolant eat away at the plastic? Or is it just the plastic failing with heat cycling? I don't know. But the failure point is typically on the crossover pipe, which is aluminum even thought the manifold itself is plastic. The area by the heater hose, or the thermostat is where it will start to drip. Check for coolant in the valley of the engine with a flashlight at night. I caught mine early. Ford no longer has these. Dorman makes aftermarket one which is less sturdily build. No brass inserts. Sensitive to torque. And they use their own manifold gasket design. I managed to snag an OEM one in good shape off Ebay. You need close up, clear, well lit, photos of the heater hose and thermostat areas where the coolant will be flowing. 4. Exhaust studs break. Not a beginner mechanic job. Did mine myself using a jig that is available to guide the drill bit properly. I did not have a welder. You will need a shorty drill bit and maybe even a small right angle drill. Don't start the job on a Sunday afternoon expecting to be back in business Monday morning for work at 6am. Ford has updated the studs to a new design/or material. This was many years ago. I replaced mine with made in US stainless studs and nuts. I used Ford OEM manifold gaskets. No problems since. The down pipe bolts will probably need to be cut off. Dorman has replacements. Ford does not. They are a B&%$^ to try and drill out. 5. Spark plugs are a pain to do. It took me 5 hours+ in my garage. 6. Get the proper tool to release the fuel line connections. Yes, you can make one. Don't waste time with that. Just buy the tool and move on. 7. My 2001 truck has a drain plug on the torque converter. You need a mirror on the ground to watch for it as you rotate the engine manually. Check your owner's manual for the proper fluid. Check the fluid level before draining. If it is good, drain, measure what came out, refill with same amount. I put a drain plug on the trans pan when I did mine, to make it easier for drain and refills. When I had the pan off, the magnet inside had the usual fine magnetic sludge. The filter had nothing abnormal. If I recall correctly, the gasket is re-usable. 8. Front drivers side wheel hub and half shaft bit the dust. Had dealer do it. Mechanic forgot to put the locking cover piece back on the hub nut. Probably still in his can of "parts I forgot to put back on vehicles." 9. Replaced all the shocks with KYB? I think it was those. Got them from Jegs. Definite improvement at the time. 10. Exhaust manifolds are original and rusty. When I had them off to do the studs, I gave them a good looking at. Still serviceable. And based on what I saw for replacements, decided it was best to just keep the originals. 11. Rear window leaks when it rains. Sliding type middle.The back seat behind the driver will get wet along the top and the carpeting. I did not have time to do the removal and reseal job on it. I just laid down a bunch of 100% silicone all along the roof edge where it meets the plastic trim and down the sides. Been fine since. 12. Added 2 oil pan heating pads for the frigid January/February temps here. Forgot the brand. I think they are about 225w each. They need to run for quite a while to make any difference in startup for vehicles that sit out in the snow. I turn mine on at about 10pm and shut them off shortly before I need to leave. 120v plug to the front grill. Probably need to use them a total of about 15 nights or so each winter, when it goes far sub zero. No big deal on electric cost. Yes the heaters do significantly improve startup performance when the truck sits in minus 20F all night. 13. Driver's side rear wheel bearing seal was leaking. Telltale sign on back of brake area and on tire sidewall. Replaced both with Ford OEM. Differential fluid gets Motorcraft friction modifier added. Cheap made in China bearing pullers have crappy pivot point pins. If you try and pull both the bearing and the seal at the same time, expect that pin to fail. I used a spare machine screw I had laying around and it worked better than the failed pin. 14. I change my trans fluid every few years. Cheap insurance. It now runs with Lucas Stop Slip added to it, because it's old, has a lot of miles, was slipping slightly while on highway cruise control and is going to need a rebuild. Yes, the Stop Slip works, depending on how bad the friction plates are getting on. Riding on borrowed time now. Don't put many miles on it yearly at this point but I do still make drives of a few hours now and then. Keep the local towing company number in your phone. 15. The gearshift lever plastic end piece where the button for the overdrive is located, just broke the other day. May wind up being a Goop and bit of electrical tape wrapped around it fix. 16. At 4:26 in the video, right below your wrist, that air tube needs to be checked for proper sealing. Leaking air getting in there can cause a high idle condition suddenly happening when you put the vehicle in park. 17. The valve cover on the passenger side is a PIA to get off because of all the stuff in the way. 18. Also at 4:26, just above your index finger is an emission line. Crazy expensive for what it is. It goes to the throttle body, and also terminates at a green color connector by the brake booster. It's a preformed line. But hell, if you have cheap, oil/fuel resistant line of the right interior diameter, you can make it work. For some reason, on my vehicle, that line has a relatively short lifespan. None of this should scare you away from buying a decent one that has been maintained if you are a good DiY mechanic, or have the cash to pay someone who is a decent mechanic not out to sell you everything and the kitchen sink.

I understand you're looking at a truck here, but the econoline engines were still 2 valve up to 2014 from what I have read both the 4.6 and 5.4

@5.43v

2 жыл бұрын

They have plastic valve guides and tensioners too

@danielnewman3441

Жыл бұрын

my 2010 f150 is a 4.6 2 valve. It was the last year for this engine.

Hey great video on the 5.4 2 valve! Nice 7 Lug F250 LD. I own a 2003 F150 7700 (100k miles) which you probably know is the same as yours just rebadged when the super duties came out. Nice thing is they came with the 4r100 transmission! I have done full exhaust both manifolds both factory cat pipes and a 3 inch cat back and now the manifolds are starting to leak again! Hard to tell if it is at the block gasket or the donut flange or both! I heard it should of been torqued after a few heat cycles? Is there a gasket at the donut flange? Im thinking bbk chrome or ceramic so I dont have any more issues hopefully? Live up in Canada...thats what killed the exhaust...truck has been oil sprayed and limited winter driving to keep it clean! Also bought a k&n intake and msd coil blasters. Finding rims was a nightmare being 7 lugs, but came across 17" Ultra motorsports Rogue rims with 33 inch BFG K02's. Also came a cross a color matching toreador red leer cap and hard tonneau! Great set up with my 16 ft dual axle cargo trailer! Anyways the list could go on but appreciate the videos on a decent ol' Fords!

The 4.6 2v is a near perfect engine

I do have a question for you, if you happen to have an answer. I have been getting a P0401 code and rough idle. I have literally changed everything in the EGR system. EGR valve, DPFE, EGR tube, EGR vaccum solenoid, new hoses from the tube to the DPFE (they are connected correctly), new plugs, new coils, new intake manifold (smoke tested it no leaks), new EVAP purge solenoid, new MAF sensor, new thermostat, new vaccum lines, new IAC valve, new fuel injectors, and new PCV valve, new cats, and new O2 sensors (all 4).

298K on mine runs fine, leaks a lot of oil from the valve cover I think.

There is a 5.4 out there somewhere with one spherical head. There’s a Mopar in the wood pile😊

I bought a 2002 with the 5.4. I wasn't very familiar with Ford but have done most of the maintenance and repairs on other vehicles. At purchase the engine seemed to be running smooth. It was high mileage. No codes. Drove it about 6 weeks with no engine problems. Then cranked it one day and it ran like crap. It would barely go. Pulled codes and started chasing the problem. Changed cam and crank sensor first and after it would go but was stalling. Changed plugs and coils and did not make a difference but they were the worst looking plugs I've ever seen. There was so much carbon build up on top of 3&4 that I had to soak it over night then break it up and vacuum out to get the socket over the plug bolt to break it loose. Then it was showing no communication to the throttle body. So I swapped it and the IAC. That seemed to get the truck going but idling high and still stalling, sometimes while I was driving and let off the throttle. At some point I started getting backfire through the intake. You can see the combustion. Changed the fuel filter. Wanted to clean the egr ports but one of the 10mm bolts is now completely rounded. I've tried everything to get that but off, blow torch you name it. Anyway, I'm stuck with this truck in my driveway I bought in September that now cranks and stalls immediately. Any thoughts?

@roberth912

2 жыл бұрын

Check over the MAF. Check over the 02 sensors. Check fuses. Connections etc. If everything checks out it could just be a bad fuel pump.

@erict1144

2 жыл бұрын

Any luck??

@billrichardson5386

2 жыл бұрын

@@erict1144 NOPE

@roberth912

2 жыл бұрын

@@billrichardson5386 could the pcm be no good?

@standhd

2 жыл бұрын

You said carbon build up…. You may need to an upper engine cleaning. I had a 99 with a v6 that was running similar to what you are experiencing and my shop did a BG upper engine cleaning and that cured the problem.

I set of NGK are 160 bucks at rock auto. They are the best. NGK plugs are less then 2 bucks each. Best set up

Yep

I never pulled the fuel rails when doing my plugs

Isn't that metal from the lifters I think its for cylinder 4 they are known to come loose and cause a ticking sound then later it comes apart and you get total breakdown

I have a 1999 4.6l 2 value. I only have 2 coils one for both sides

2 valve Triton 5.4, 4.6, 6.8 pros and cons

didnt touch on the most common problem. 4 thread plugs blowing out.

I use Edelbrock coil set I have good reviews with them $200.00 for the set at O'REILLY they have them on the performance wall at the end of the counter my 5.4 has 212k miles I'm guna change my rusty exalst heads to shorty heads any advice?

@darrenairey5938

2 жыл бұрын

Go with bbk 3518 or 35180 headers for the 5.4 2v. First model # is chrome plated, 2nd # is silver ceramic coated. Don't forget to use graphite gaskets and a set of locking header bolts. Cheap headers will have fitment issues and could leak. It can be a tough job so do it right the first time so you don't gotta do it again!

...except for the blowing out spark plugs...the 2V Triton engines are OK.

For the coils, go to rockauto and get Denso's. That is the OEM MC coil, without the MC sticker. Cheaper than MC too. The high dollar ones you are talking about are Granatelli's.

Did he ever find out what that broken piece of metal was or where it came from?

It will be more money, have the dealer do it. If they screw up they have to fix it

I put flame thrower coils on mine

Oh my God

Ford switching to 2 valve engines after 2004 is incorrect. My 2005 xlt and 2009 stx both have a 4.6 2valve engine

+1 on the spark plugs being in a terrible location and coils being junk! Not even joking, but I could have the engine and transmission completely out of my old van faster than I could replace 8 spark plugs on my '99 F-250! Last time I did plugs to take care of a misfire, I upgraded to iridium plugs and MSD Blaster coils because I do NOT want to do that job again for as long as I can manage! Same thing on the exhaust studs. I just finished replacing my exhaust manifold, studs, and gasket on my passenger side due to broken studs. The truck has been garage kept with under 65,000 miles on it and it's already blown an exhaust leak! That job sucks too as the motor is so buried it's pointless to get after it from the top side. I can get to it from the bottom/side if I remove all of the wheel liner and turn myself into a pretzel to get behind the riveted on suspension mounts. I'm using all ARP studs at $200 for a set of 16 because, again, I do NOT want to spend stupid amounts of time replacing the studs again! At this stage in life, I really don't give a rip about a lifetime warranty on a $30 coil. I value the time it takes to replace an inferior coil more than simply a free replacement. I learned that with a crappy HF torque wrench when it lost calibration. It caused my rebuilt engine to blow up within just a couple months, but you bet they replaced my $35 torque wrench no problem!

I can't watch this . I'm just gonna assume my mechanic knows this stuff cuz I can't sit here n worry about all this . I don't think I got a lemon . it's tight it runs good and it was well taken care of before me for

Exh studs and spittin plugs. Who needs two piece spark plugs when these spit them out anyway with only three threads holding the plugs in. I have done 5 time serts already on my 04 f250.

These motors have very few spark plug threads that strip out forcing you to use an insert. Vacuum leaks from hell!

These engines are really sensitive, Motorcraft only or you’ll most likely have issues.

@cbr600rx7

10 ай бұрын

You are absolutely correct