Hey man. I think many people would really appreciate a video on how to prevent most common injuries (proper warmup/strengthening/what to be aware of when climbing etc.) I am a beginner (2 months into climbing) and already had 2 light injuries despite my calisthenics background.

@RPD_ps

8 ай бұрын

Warm up, rest properly (1 day between sessions with good quality sleep and diet), no fingerboard after training, don't overdo training.

@Som-yc4ql

8 ай бұрын

@@RPD_ps Yea that sounds like an alright general advice but there's so much more to it, unfortunately.

@lol32scbw

8 ай бұрын

I'd say if you move (pushing legs) proper way, you load fingers less and risk is much lower. Proper warmup of course.

@danielscheuch

8 ай бұрын

Check out the channel Always Climbing, he has a good video called: How to prevent injuries climbing

@ipepe7829

8 ай бұрын

Most common are pulley injuries (namely A2 and A4), finger injuries in general, elbow and shoulder injuries (like SLAP lesion). Beware overtraining in general, listen to your body. Check your range of motion (of the fingers for instance). Good channels to learn about injuries are the "The Climbing Doctor" and "Hoopers Beta".

This is probably the most distilled climbing knowledge condensed into one video. So fundamental yet groundbreaking when it comes to executing on the wall.

A really well thought out video so that the information can be applied. Great stuff thanks alot. I especially like that it only contained two tips.

Thank you for this, I am going climbing today and definitely going to bring these tips to the session.

Another Banger. thanks man. Also the Ebook was super helpful, great with the analogies comparing other sports and activities!

You're a good teacher dude! Explaining stuff I should know in a way that makes sense and is memorable. Cheers!

Great tips! For the second one, initiating the move through the hips is a key.

Pushing same side foot with reaching hand is the key! When you pushing both feets (or even wrong feet) you adding lots of excessive load to your hand on the wall and very little reach for another hand. I think it's the same idea as hack №1. I'm new to bouldering (1 month) but thanks to your channel making progress on overhangs very quickly. Thank you very much! Your channel is the best! Please provide even more nerdy stuff - it's very useful.

I never comment on yt vids but this guy is such a good teacher I always learn so much from his vids

Going to focus on these 2 points next time I hit the gym! One thing I learned recently is that sometimes no foot hold is better than a bad foot hold for your secondary foot, allows for better balance. Especially as a beginner you tend to think that using an hold is always better, but that's not the case.

@movementforclimbers

7 ай бұрын

Totally! Being able to fit comfortably into a box is the first priority of body positioning, and sometimes that involves just one foothold instead of two.

A good point is made with the second tip. Its subtle but there’s a difference between pulling into the wall, which help put weight onto the feet, and pulling up, which pulls weight off the foot. And yes, moving into the wall does require a bit more hand strength. Anyways, how you initiate that body movement towards the wall is irrelevant because sometimes it may be easier to generate with the upper body, and other times with the lower body.

These thumbnails are crazy lol. Great video as always.

Great tips, thank you!

I am a V3 climber projecting V4, this video helped me a lot!

Great video. Thank you

🗽Very well explained with the contralateral system of humans. It took me some time as a beginner, to understand it. And now I'm learning to focus much more on the pressure at the primary foot, together with tension. 👍 And with the pull towards the wall and with momentum it works much more efficient in overhangs! .

This is a really solid video

@movementforclimbers

8 ай бұрын

you're a really solid video.

Thank you! I have a question: what is the primary foot has no foot point? In this case, how to put pressure on it?

thank you

A tip: when standing on volumes, drive your heels down. It's counter-intuitive, but it will help to increase the friction.

@hyteclowlife

8 ай бұрын

This can be difficult if you have poor range of motion in your ankle, which is why stretching (every day, if you can) is so important for climbing.

@whydidthetilda

7 ай бұрын

And expanding this in general, you want to push perpendicular to the surface you want friction on. So for smears you want your foot high enough so you're pushing into the wall. On volumes, like you say, raising your heels pushes you along the surface of the volume (pushing you off), lowering your heels pushes directly into the volume and you increase friction

@8:00 yes you did it 💪

Do you pull with the primary foot even when you are twisting/drop kneeing?

You touched a really good point about using back flags to stabilize ipsilateral positions that are normally volatile. Contralateral movement may not always be possible due to hold availability, more so as you approach higher v-grades, so I'd say it's almost crucial to know what to do when climbers find themselves in those positions. I think you missed an opportunity to delve into how to utilize the free leg and make changes to the hip positioning to find balance for back flagging movements. Back flagging is a very nuanced, but versatile skill that I find is lacking in intermediate climbers and even some advanced climbers. They can save energy by reducing the number of foot movements, and it can pave the way towards understanding how to direct momentum in a flowy manner like what we see with high level climbers.

@jonnes__4657

8 ай бұрын

Back flagging is a special case, where you stop the barn door with the other leg. More seldom used in steep walls. .

@movementforclimbers

8 ай бұрын

Agreed that a good back flag is a useful and important technique in certain situations. The video was focusing on the 2 changes people can make that address the majority of the scenarios where they struggle with a move.

@JerrafurOscar

8 ай бұрын

​@@jonnes__4657 I can see why you view backflags as a special case, but I'd argue that back flagging is not as special of a case as you say, in terms of how rarely we come across this move in climbing. Take for example the plethora of climbs on the Moonboard, Tension board, Kilter board, etc (all overhung indoor terrains, with some boards being adjustable for even steep climbing) where a climber cannot afford to have a primary foot placed contralaterally. The most common example I can think of is, after the free leg has completed its role in maintaining stability, there are a lot of options available. It can then be used as a source of momentum in generating both gentle and explosive pogo movements to reach the next hold, saving time and effort on feet swapping, or it can be immediately placed onto the next desired foothold without necessitating a foot swap. It would be a very impressive feat to see a climber send several advanced board benchmarks (v7+) strictly using contralateral movement, instead of opting for some ipsilateral movements.

@JerrafurOscar

8 ай бұрын

​​@@movementforclimbersI realized after re-reading my initial comment that I was giving the impression of focusing too much on backflagging, but I meant to highlight a situation where the crux of their project does not offer any contralateral positions. I think it would benefit struggling climbers to try to learn and familiarize themselves with how to navigate through scenarios where they cannot afford contralateral movements. Ipsilateral positions and movements are inevitable in climbing, and I believe we would be hindering our abilities to climb if the only ipsilateral movement we know is how to backflag to create stability. It's just as important to become familiar with how to move up a wall when we're limited to an ipsilateral position. I think there was a missed opportunity during the hover states segment to briefly demonstrate how both contralateral and ipsilateral movements can achieve the hover state.

@lb259

8 ай бұрын

​@@JerrafurOscar​this might be true if the video is watched only by complete beginners who never heard of the concept of flagging. For example, I've been climbing for a few months and I'm familiar with and practice all common flagging techniques (and learned them from other videos on this channel too). Still, I wasn't aware of these two hacks.

is this momentum in millcreek?

@movementforclimbers

8 ай бұрын

yup, it is.

First

Thanks for the tips. Definitely going to implement them when I climb. I climb with my legs muscles the most 🦵🦵