Ok 2022 and i am gonna clean my 2003 v star 650 with clogged jets …..good video🇺🇸

My bike hasn't been ridden all year because I hurt my knee. I wanted to get one ride in this season and the dang thing won't start. Same problem you started with. I feel confident in doing this on my own after watching this... complete with mistakes and laughing at yourself. I really enjoyed watching this "real" video. Much better than a typical instruction video.

@The13thSword

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you sir. I try to leave the mistakes in so others don't repeat them on their own projects. It also shows what you can run into and that you just have to keep calm, think it through & keep plugging along, and it will work. 9+ times out of 10 with a bike that's been sitting it's going to be plugged up pilot jets, so I'm pretty sure you can get her going again. Just take your time with it. Thanks again for the most kind words.

@The13thSword

2 жыл бұрын

@Mickey Cook Just curious but it's been a year. Most important how's the knee? And did you ever get around to getting the bike going again?

Thanks for the video,been wanting to tackle mine, just got it done and now idles like new!!

@The13thSword

3 жыл бұрын

Job well done sir! Good on you for getting to it.

Thanks for showing this jammed carb jet tip. I am expecting to be dealing with this kind of problem soon. Not having to take the entire carb setup apart to fix it is awesome. Great video.

@The13thSword

2 жыл бұрын

Glad it was a help.

@LyonhartZ2

2 жыл бұрын

@phil no need to touch airbox or akr cleaner either. just slightly remove tank and pull the 4 jets easy job...

I hear yah! Pulling the jets and all that crouching does wonders for my 57 year old lower back! Thanks for the informative video. Very helpful.

@The13thSword

Жыл бұрын

Glad it was some help. Sorry to hear about the back & hope it gets better.

@slingshot360diecastracing6

Жыл бұрын

@@The13thSword all good. Jets are clean. Going for a test ride shortly. Thanks again!

Hi! Here these bikes are called Dragstar. I have a 2008 custom (saddly we don't have the classic model here). Mine has the same problem but I had to call a professional. I wish I've seen your vídeo one month ago. Thanks for share It! Cheers from Brazil!

@The13thSword

5 жыл бұрын

I am very sorry that my video did not find you in time to help you fix your problem on your own. Hopefully your professional did not charge you too much money for the work. At least you get to ride again, which is always good! :^) Thank you for your very kind words, they mean a lot to me. I do videos like this to help people out. Nice to know that it makes a difference. Keep learning, you can fix it!

Thanks! I'm having a V-Star 650 delivered tomorrow, for myself. Hubby & I have a Harley but the Yamaha is my first starter bike. I wanna ride my own. I wanted to get familiar. It runs but I know problems are inevitable & I wanna be able to give 'er the TLC treatment... whatever she needs. Until I'm ready to trade up. :) Safe rides to you & yours!

@The13thSword

4 жыл бұрын

Very nice, and a solid choice for a bike to learn on. Just one thing: she's a lot heavier than you'd expect, which is good & bad. Center of gravity is low enough that it handles well, but make sure you know how to pick her up right without hurting yourself, if needed. Hoping you never need to! Only thing I can tell you to look for is the intake boots, which can be prone to cracking, and causing a vacuum leak, which would make the bike run rough, and be difficult to tune. On older V-Stars you need to look for this. If they need to be replaced the parts are still available and not that expensive. You can do those yourself and It's not too hard, just involved (a lot of stuff has to come off to get to them). If I can help you with any repair or maintenance info on it just let me know. I'd be glad to share what I know.

@sherriisaac9217

4 жыл бұрын

@@The13thSword Thanks SO much! I really appreciate it! :)

Mann , this was exactly what I needed, and preciate cha on this video.

Couple things: to start the bike cold pull the choke all the way out. As soon as it starts push it about half way in so its idling normally. The bike usually will not continue to run if you leave the choke pulled out all the way. The idle speed is 1200 rpm. This is a mid throw piston bike, its not a long throw engine like a Harley. If you adjust the idle to sound like a Harley you will always set it too slow. Then the oil pump will not be spinning fast enough to keep oil flowing to the bearings on the cams, and you will cause expensive damage. Set the idle speed after riding about 5 miles, and use an electrical or acoustic tachometer. DONT set it by ear or by what the bike does when you blip the throttle. It needs to be 1200RPM. If you dont have a tach, beg borrow or rent one.... because this bike will run 100,000 miles if you take care of it without ever needing internal repairs.

@The13thSword

3 жыл бұрын

Very good info here.

I have an 85 Vmax 1200 and it has 11,700 original miles. I am the second owner and the first owner kept it in a heated garage and rode it or started it once or twice a year for about four years. The bike is in mint condition and looks brand new all I had to do was clean it and polish it and I bought a tire changing kit and added new tires but the thing is it will not idle with the choke off and other than that everything is awesome so thanks for your video I’m going to try to clean out the Jets without tearing the carbs off because There are four of them and I’m no expert but I am pretty handy.

@The13thSword

3 жыл бұрын

It sounds like the previous owner did almost everything right, but the pilot jets could still be clogged. It's just a fact of life with bikes that sit & aren't run that often, and due to today's ethanol laced gasoline. I'm pretty sure you will be able to get the jets cleared out without removing the carbs, However, there is something else you should take a hard look at on the bike. Those are the intake boots. Over time they can develop cracks in the material, causing vacuum leaks, which can also cause the symptom you describe. Make sure you get a strong light and check every part that you can see for cracks or even missing pieces/holes.

nice thanks for the info i have a 98 V Star 650 and probably need to do the same thing just to make sure they are cleaned up

@The13thSword

5 жыл бұрын

You are most welcome. Since bikes mostly do not get used every day, there isn't gas flowing through the carbs to keep them cleared out. Gas normally has cleaners & detergents in it to help prevent this but it has to flow to work. The pilot jets are always the first to get plugged up, because the holes in them are so small, then the "gummy" stuff hardens & can't be removed with liquid cleaners like Seafoam etc. Ya gotta get in there & physically clean em out. You'll be glad you did it.

@rickpursley

3 жыл бұрын

@@The13thSword I live in San Antonio, TX we can USUALLY ride all year round. With exception of that freak snow storm we had last month. 75% on Christmas is always nice.

@The13thSword

3 жыл бұрын

@@rickpursley Same here in Florida, except for some weeks in winter where it doesn't want to get over the high 50s. :^P Ride safe sir.

About to do this on my 2007. Thank you for the refresher!

@The13thSword

2 жыл бұрын

Glad it was a help. :^)

@happyackerman4885

2 жыл бұрын

How was it? about to do it on my 07 as well

@nerfytheclown

2 жыл бұрын

@@happyackerman4885 ended up I am just dumb. Runs fine

@The13thSword

2 жыл бұрын

@@happyackerman4885 If you mean what results, it completely cured the issue. Pilot jets clogging up on bike that sit for any length of time is a common issue, especially if you are running Ethanol laced fuels.

Thank you for the video will do my this week

@The13thSword

6 ай бұрын

You're most welcome. 9 times out of 10 throttle/run issues on bikes are this issue, so it will most likely work.

awesome video, thank you very much, very helpful.

@The13thSword

2 жыл бұрын

Glad it helped. :^)

My 99 v star is doing the same thing I enjoy taking it all apart. This time I'm replacing all the jets and gaskets

@The13thSword

3 жыл бұрын

Excellent! It's always very satisfying to get your bike running well again by your own efforts.

Thanks a bunch! Very useful! :)

@The13thSword

5 жыл бұрын

I'm glad it was some help, thanks for the comment!

@The13thSword

5 жыл бұрын

I had a few other thoughts, things I didn't think to mention before. Just wanted to mention these things, as I previously forgot to. Sometimes we forget the simple stuff, which we should look at first. Did you check the accelerator linkage to make sure it wasn't stuck down in the full throttle position? Did you take the air cleaner off & check the choke to see that it wasn't stuck closed? Either of these 2 things could cause the "full throttle, wide open" condition you described, and could be easy fixes. Also, when the engine did start & you said it was "wide open", was it "screaming" wide open, or just very fast? It makes a difference because the high idle on the 20R is set to 2400 RPM stock. The warmed up low idle speed is 850 RPM. The High Idle speed is a lot higher than most people are used to dealing with & could lead you to believe that it's wide open. "Redline" on these engines is about 6000 RPM. Of course the only way to really know what's going on with engine speed & know if it's right or wrong, is to hook up a tachometer. It's also possible that someone before you monkeyed around with the High Idle Adjustment Screw & got it wrong. Same could go for the regular idle adjustment screw and/or the idle mixture screw.

Im having same issue. Going to try this. Thanks the vifeo

@The13thSword

2 жыл бұрын

You're welcome. I hope it works for you. 9 times out of 10, especially on a bike that's sat for any length of time, it's the pilot jets being clogged. Once you do get it all cleaned out, it's a good idea to take a ride to the parts store & get a small bottle of STA-BIL gas treatment. Any time you are going to let the bike sit for a few weeks or more, just add some to the gas tank per directions, especially if you're running today's common gas with Ethanol in it. It will help keep those jets open.

@miamimotogroup5371

2 жыл бұрын

@@The13thSword just tried now one of the plates are leaking after i tighten. 🤦‍♂️ made sure the gasket was inserted correctly.

@The13thSword

2 жыл бұрын

@@miamimotogroup5371 A very good point. What I should also mention for everyone else out there is consider going to your local motorcycle parts dealer and get some new gaskets to do this. A lot of these bikes are approaching or over 20 years old, so those old gaskets could be kind of brittle and not seal up properly.

Great vid buddy. I’m about to head into the garage to clean and replace some things in mine. I’m pretty sure I have a stuck float, I have a kit. Hopefully it’ll go smoothly. I’m sure it won’t though.

@The13thSword

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you. I'm sure it will go OK. These carbs are fairly simple. As long as you take your time & make sure everything is well cleaned out, it should work for you. The main thing to get right (cleaned) is the idle/pilot jet; it's almost always the culprit. The hole in that jet is very small & clogs up easily. Also, it's almost never a stuck float (unless the bikes been sitting forever & it's gummed up bad), but a stuck needle valve. The needle gets stuck from gunk long before the actual float. Even basic kits usually come with new needle valves so that should also solve some problems. Getting it all very clean inside & getting fresh (hopefully non-ethanol) gas into it usually solves 80% of all these carb problems. Again, just take your time with it, you can do this.

@gedocowboy8484

5 жыл бұрын

The13thSword all went well. It was quick and easy, and not very dirty except for one clogged idle jet. I bought this as a fixer upper and it was sitting for a while. Once it finally fires up after barely holding the throttle open, it won’t start with the choke like normal, it runs great, and will start great. Now I suspect a bad fuel pump. It only randomly primes. When I first bought the bike a few weeks ago, it seemed to prime every time I switched it on

@The13thSword

5 жыл бұрын

@@gedocowboy8484 Very good, I was sure you could get this done. Considering the bike was sitting for a while there are going to be other issues to address. My personal checklist on it would be oil & filter, air filter, fuel filter, drain & clean out tank, check & replace any dry-rotted or cracked fuel lines, & possibly rebuild the fuel petcock (fuel shutoff valve). There are a few small rubber parts in the fuel shutoff that can deteriorate & cause fuel leakage or vacuum leak. I'd also check the carb boots while I was at it; they are also a rubber part & do crack over time, possibly causing a vac leak. The rubber parts are obvious places where age & inactivity can eventually cause problems. The fuel filter could also be partly or mostly clogged up with gunk, & could cause the priming issue you mentioned. However, don't get too concerned about the fuel pump if the bike is starting & running OK under normal riding conditions. It only puts out about 3-5 PSI & it doesn't take much to prime the carbs at that pressure, especially if the carbs have a good seal. It takes a while for the fuel pressure to bleed off, so you probably shouldn't hear it do it's clicking thing with repeated turns of the key. As long as it doesn't seem to be starving for fuel or stalling out while riding the pump is probably OK.

@gedocowboy8484

5 жыл бұрын

The13thSword that’s a good checklist, thanks. I’ve only done the oil change and plugs so far. I can see one carb boot is cracked, and all the other things mentioned being potentially gummed up makes a lot of sense. Compared to working on cars for decades this is easy stuff. The frustrating part is not knowing what to fix. This morning it wasn’t getting spark in rear plug. I swapped coils and they only work in the front. After charging the battery fully, and cranking it, I can see the front cylinder working through the exhaust. Once it finally starts then I can see both cylinders working fine.

@The13thSword

5 жыл бұрын

@@gedocowboy8484 Might just be the power hookup to the one coil being bad/loose/corroded/dirty. Older stuff is always a challenge, you just have to go through everything. I've been through the same thing on my '78 Toyota Pickup. Simple systems but age, wear or lack of care often means going through whole systems to work out any bugs. You'll get there if you're thorough & complete about it. What year is your bike?

Thank you!

@The13thSword

2 жыл бұрын

You're welcome. Ride safe.

Good video. Love these bikes. What exhaust is it running? Thanks for the info. Take care.

@The13thSword

3 жыл бұрын

We're not entirely sure, but we assume they are aftermarket, as they don't look like pics of the stockers that I can find online. The bike was purchased used and these pipes were already on it. They might be Cobra Drag Pipes like these: www.jpcycles.com/product/13601/cobra-drag-pipes-full-exhaust-system?redirectedKeyword=ZZ44058

Thank you sir

Thank you very much

@The13thSword

4 жыл бұрын

You are most welcome, glad if it helped.

Fantastic video, Thank you. I noticed you replaced the carb bowl screws with bolts? Can you tell where you got those or what size I would need? Thanks a bunch. Oh Nevermind, I see you explained about bolt size. Thanks again.

@The13thSword

4 жыл бұрын

No problem. The problem was with the type of screws. They are JIS, or Japanese Industrial Standard Phillips Head Screws. You need to use a JIS Phillips screwdriver or you strip out the slots like I did. If you need to replace them I recommend you take one to a hardware store & get regular metric replacements. Those are not usually JIS so any common Phillips head screwdriver of the right size will work on them. Makes future servicing easier.

@only1badass582

4 жыл бұрын

A little late but those bolts or screws are m4x14

I was set to clean the carbs jets when it had one screw you could not get to and of course it was reamed off. It turned into a three day job! I had to tear the whole thing apart. The air cleaner would not go back on the carbs with the cheap crap hose clamps that would slip up and off every time you tightened them. The speedometer cable shrunk or something to where you would need trumps hands to hook it up!! I think some moron worked on it before. Every screw was rung. It would great to have a video on tips to solve these weird problems. All on count of one screw. Thanks great video.

Very helpful. I couldn't get mine to start unless the choke was all the way out. I did eventually get it to run today with the choke pushed back in but, but I had to give it a lot of throttle to get it moving. I even got it driving after trying to start it for 15 minutes. When I held the clutch in and lowered gears to reduce speed, and coast, the bike would shut off, as it was idling. I also had quite a bit of trouble getting the bike over 50mph in 5th gear. I'm assuming the jets are clogged and not enough gas is getting through? New to this whole motorcycle thing. I just bought my first bike and it's a Vstar 650.

@The13thSword

5 жыл бұрын

Yes sir, sounds exactly like a clogged pilot jet. Only running on Choke is a clogged pilot jet. Since you got it to run with the Choke pushed in, I'd say that your running some gas through it helped clean out the jet a little, but it's probably still partially clogged, given your description of it's behavior. The pilot jet is sometimes also called the idle jet, but it does more than just make the engine idle. It also flows gas even at higher airflows/engine speeds ABOVE idle speed, so it's important to overall fuel flow in the carb at ANY speed. If it is partially clogged (like yours sounds like it is), the engine will not run well even at higher speeds. It wouldn't go over 50 mph because the engine is literally "starving" for enough gas to get the job done. You don't want to keep trying to ride or run it like this. A lean fuel condition is one of the worst things for an engine, & can cause all kinds of problems, if not fixed. The Main Jet usually doesn't clog up, because the metering hole drilled through it is larger than the Pilot Jet, but you can't really know until you get into the carb. 90% of the time it is just the Pilot Jet. Once you get the Bowl Cover off it's easy to get the jets out & check the bores for clogs with a strong light source. If 1 or both are clogged just clean them like I did in the video, & take your time with it. These parts are very easy to lose! Also, if the bike has over 50K miles or is more than 10 years old, I recommend that you find new bowl gaskets for the carbs & replace them while you have access. The old rubber gaskets can shrink & get hard, & may not seal up when you put the bowl covers back on, resulting in a fuel leak (not safe!) Let me know if you need any other info about this, or if I can help you in any other way.

@BWolfMusic

5 жыл бұрын

@@The13thSword Thanks man. I increased the idle engine speed to see if maybe it was too low, and it will now idle, but as soon as I go to take off and give it gas, it dies. Air filter is clean, and spark plugs seem to be fine, so the only thing left I can think of are these jets. I've never done work like this before, but i'm going to try today. I hope I don't mess it up!

@The13thSword

5 жыл бұрын

@@BWolfMusic Increasing idle speed will sometimes get it to run. But the "falling on it's face" you describe when giving it some gas is a classic symptom of the Idle/Pilot Jet(s) being clogged. Just take your time with it & you should do fine. Remember that there are 2 Idle/Pilot Jets to clean, one in each carb. Also, don't be afraid of it, just do one step at a time. Carbs are fairly simple things once you understand how they work. Just clean out the jets completely & the problem should be solved. Be thorough.

Thank you. 👍😁

@The13thSword

Ай бұрын

You're welcome, glad it helped.

Did you do the main jet too ? going to do this to my 97 rstd theyre clogged up like you wouldnt believe cant wait to hear it with those unclogged

@The13thSword

2 жыл бұрын

On this particular bike, I've never found the mains to be clogged. I assume this is because they have a larger bore (hole size) than the pilot jets & are harder to plug up. However since I'm in there I do give them a few good shots of carb cleaner with the "straw" attachment that comes with most cans of carb spray cleaner, followed by a few shots of compressed air. No sense skipping doing this when you have access to them. I'm sure you're going to get it done.

Similar problem, if that works and I get better performance you're the man, either way, I learned something today, thank you

@John-qz2sy

3 жыл бұрын

Same issue on my 07

@michaelh.433

3 жыл бұрын

Worked perfect for the 2009 I am working on. Back up and running. So much for green energy. gums up carbs AND injectors.. Ever seen a jug of corn syrup? these jets looked like they were dipped in it and allowed to congeal.. yuck..

Is the pilot jet supposed to be a clean hole all the way thru or is there a manufactured something inside the jet?

@The13thSword

10 ай бұрын

As I recall, the hole goes all the way through the jet from end to end. Most automotive & motorcycle carb jets are like this. If the jet is "clear" of debris or blockage, you should be able to hold it up to a light source & see light through the hole. & be visually able to see the round shape of the hole. If you can see light through it but the hole doesn't look round, it's still got some blockage in there & needs further cleaning out. There are some small engine (like on lawnmowers) carb jets that aren't that way, that have the main hole not drilled all the way through, but there are 1 or 2 cross-drilled holes near the bottom of the jet for fuel outlet/flow. But I've never seen a jet like that on an engine 250 cc's or larger. If your particular bikes' pilot jet does have those "cross-holes" those need to be clear & open as well for it to work correctly. In either case try not to overthink this. The main thing about pilot jets is that the "hole" is very small & can very easily get clogged up, especially on motorcycles (& cars too) that aren't run or ridden/driven every day. Gasoline always has cleaning agents added to help keep jets & the carb clean, but that doesn't work so well when the the gas isn't regularly run through the carb to keep those deposits from forming. Example: if a bike is just a "weekend ride", the gas on the carb bowl can evaporate between uses, & leave behind solid material that can clog the jet(s). Just give it a good cleaning out & reinstall the jet. 9.9 times out of 10 this fixes the issue.

I I enjoyed your post. My bike has been sitting for a while and it starts and runs but it’s only hitting on one side. I’m just a girl and know just enough about carburetors to get in trouble because I do know that carburetors are most of the time for specialist. Everyone says to tap on the carburetor where the floats are because it sounds like the floats are stuck. Also they say just get it on the road and driving it will push out the gunk most probably. It’s been garage kept but like I said it’s been sitting for a while. It’s a 99V star 650 custom. Just trying to get it ready to sell. Had it made into a trike and hate to sell it but it’s got to go. What would you do if it’s just hitting on one side??? Thanks for your video!

@The13thSword

2 жыл бұрын

If by "only hitting on one side" you mean it seems to be only firing on one of the two cylinders, I would suspect that it's an ignition problem & not a fuel problem. That could mean it's a problem with the spark plug for the non-firing cylinder, a bad ignition coil for that cylinder, or a power feed (wiring) issue to that spark plug or coil. More on this later. The only ways it could be a fuel problem are: 1. It could be a stuck float in the carb that feeds the non-firing cylinder. Depending on fuel level in the carb, the float operates a needle valve that either opens to let more fuel into the carb, or shut off fuel flow to the carb to prevent flooding. Tapping on the cover with something like a screwdriver handle *might* free up the float; it's worth trying. However floats usually get "stuck" due to "varnish" or dried-up gas making a sticky sludge that prevents it from moving, so the problem could return. Also the needle valve could be stuck closed due to the same issue, not allowing any gas into the carb. That "varnish" needs to be cleared out. Everyone saying just get it on the road & drive it to clear it out *might" work. Liquid gasoline does act like a solvent & could "melt" the "varnish". Up to you to try this or not, but it is a zero dollar fix if it works. 2. The one one carb that feeds the "non-firing" cylinder is clogged up (again, the pilot jets, because they are very small and clog up easily if the bike isn't ridden very often) but this is not a common problem in my experience. Or the non-firing cylinder has a large vacuum leak, which is "leaning out" the air/fuel mixture to that cylinder so much that it won't fire. Usual place for this to happen is the intake boot that connects the carb to that cylinder. They are a hard black plastic-like material and over time they can get brittle & crack, or develop holes in them. This lets extra air into the air/fuel mix & it won't burn even if you do have good spark. This could also lead to spark plug fouling. Reference on intake boots, part #'s 1 & 2 in diagram: www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/50044147f8700209bc78e801/intake Best thing to do first is verify if both cylinders are getting spark or not. There are 2 ways you can check to see if the suspect cylinder is getting spark or not. Best way is to go get an inline spark tester at almost any auto parts store, like this one: www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/ignition-tester/p/oemtools-in-line-ignition-tester/900800_0_0 It installs between the end of the spark plug wire & the spark plug. Once installed, you just crank the engine & watch for spark in the window of the tester If no spark, you have a coil or wiring issue. If there is spark but the cylinder doesn't fire, you could have a worn, damaged or fouled spark plug. You can also do this test with just a screwdriver with some length to it. Disconnect the wire from the spark plug, put the end of the screwdriver in the connector at the end of the wire, & then hold the screwdriver shaft against any plain metal surface of the engine, & crank the engine over. If the coil & wiring is good, you should see some sparking between the screwdriver shaft & the engine. If testing showed me that both ignition coils were working & I'd checked that both intake boots were in good condition or at least intact with no major holes or cracks (you need to remove the seat to see these, see video), I'd probably just go ahead and replace both spark plugs with new ones, especially if I didn't know when they were last replaced or if it had been a long while. They are only $3-$4 at most auto parts stores or bike parts shops. Specification: NGK DRP7EA-9, one each cylinder. If spark is good from both coils, new spark plugs installed & fuel system is clean, & it didn't get the "dead" cylinder firing, then I'd suspect a deeper issue (compression problem, valves), but that would be a bit rare for these engines to have happen. This is just what I'd check out & do, but only because I can & a bike that runs OK is easier to sell. Personal note & just my opinion. Your being "just a girl" doesn't mean you can't do this. It's only a matter of correct info & application. I know several "girls" that can run circles around me when wrenching on bikes, but only because they do it for a living, have more experience & get more practice. For the rest of us it's just a matter of it taking more time to do, that's all. Most vehicle mechanics procedures are pretty straight forward, once you understand how it's supposed to go. It's up to you to decide if you want to try or not. Just do what's best for you. If I can help with any other info just let me know.

@sharronharding8112

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you for so much info!!!! I attempted to look at it again yesterday. In weather that’s 105 in the shade I didn’t have a lot of interest to be honest but I will say that when I choked it and tried to start it, gas poured out the over flow hose at the bottom of the carbs. It was flooded from the beginning. I’m betting on the gunk that’s got it stopped up is the problem. When it does start it runs perfect for a few seconds then dies and is flooded when you try to restart! I hate starting on this when I don’t know what is considered normal! I know motorcycle repair can run into $1000 and more really quick. I work on my rider lawnmower all the time but this motorcycle kinda makes me stand back and scratch my head first…. Bc if I mess it up I’m in trouble! Thanks for call your info. I’m going to use it all!!!!

@The13thSword

2 жыл бұрын

@@sharronharding8112 From your description it sounds like at least one of the needle valves is stuck open, or the float is stuck in a position that's holding the needle valve open. Either way this allows gas to flow constantly into one carb or both & floods it. If I had to guess if it's just one of the carbs, it's probably the one associated with whichever cylinder you were saying wasn't "hitting" or firing before. So if you are going to try to take the carb cover off, I'd start with that one. I think there might be some good news here tho. If it is a stuck float and/or needle valve, some shots of carb cleaner (spray can type) can "melt" any gunk that's causing this to happen. Freeing the parts up is the simple part; getting to them takes a bit more work. You could also try shooting some spray carb cleaner into the overflow hose, to fill the carb's bowl(s) with cleaner, & letting it soak overnight. That might also free things up in there. Other good news is that you said "When it does start it runs perfect for a few seconds" so that means both spark plugs & ignition coils are working. That one cylinder might have not been "hitting" or firing because the spark plugs' electrode was totally wet with gas, & they usually don't like to spark off when they are like that. If you've ever cleaned or rebuilt the carb on your riding mower, you can do most of this I'm sure. Carbs are all fairly similar to each other. It's just sometimes the parts look a little different from each other but do the same things. Have a look at that carb diagram I sent the link for, it should help some. Speaking of which, here is a link to the complete parts diagram page for your '99: www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/l/yam/50044151f8700209bc78e824/1999-v-star-custom-xvs650l-parts One other thing. Tip for how to try to get it started if it's flooded. Make sure choke is OFF. Twist & hold the throttle wide open & then crank it over until it starts to "catch" or fire. Doing this opens the butterfly valves in the carbs & let's extra air in. To explain - Flooding is too much gas & not enough air (rich condition), just the opposite of what I described with the broken intake boot; too much air not enough gas. So when there is too much gas going thru the carb, as in flooding, you open the throttle wide open to let as much air in as possible. This help clear out excess gas and make the air to fuel ratio something more like what the engine can burn. Word of warning. Only try to do this a few times. If it doesn't want to even try to start doing this in a few trys, STOP. The engine may try to spit out the extra fuel thru the tailpipes (fire hazard) and/or unburned fuel in a cylinder can wash the oil off the cylinder wall. Which would be muy no bueno (not good at all!) But you can likely give it a few tries safely to see if it fires up.

Do you know where the air / vacuum hose that is in the middle of the carburetors get connected? It is just hanging with an open end. I just bought a 2001 and it bogs out when accelerating at high rpms. I think this hose is the problem. I have done spark plugs, fuel filter, carb cleaning, air filter and it still cuts out.

@The13thSword

Жыл бұрын

As near as I can tell (or know), that hose is a vent line for the fuel bowls. Even if it was completely missing this wouldn't cause bogging issues, as the bowl vents are not a part of the intake side of the system, so there is no way that would cause a vacuum leak & cause bogging. There are 2 other items that usually get overlooked, and those are the "boots" that connect each carb to it's cylinder head. Yamaha calls them "carburetor joints". You can get online diagrams & parts lists for your bike here: yamaha-motor.com/parts On the parts page for your bike, select "INTAKE" & look at part numbers 1 & 2. These "boots" are made of a hard plastic, & with time & engine heat cycling they can & do develop cracks i(or even holes) in them that can cause a vacuum leak (lean fuel condition under load), causing running issues like yours. It's a commonly known issue so take a very close look at those. Also have a look at part # 24 in the diagram, air cleaner joint. Same issues as the "boots", plus the rubber part of them can shrink over time & with engine heat, causing a vacuum leak. The entire intake system from the air cleaner joints to the cylinder head must be airtight in order for the carbs to give you the correct air/fuel mixture for all conditions. Other possibilities: Did you drain the fuel tank & check it inside for "trash" or rust? Are you testing with the old fuel or fresh fuel? Did you check function of the Petcock Valve (fuel shutoff valve) & make sure it flows freely? What condition are your fuel lines in? Did you check/test the fuel pump & is it working as it should? I ask all this because all of it needs to be checked. Also, if any fuel with Ethanol in it has been used in the bike, many of these items will develop problems. The older rubber compounds in the fuel lines, petcock valve & on some intake parts will degrade when exposed to Ethanol fuels. That can cause vacuum or fuel leaks & again, lead to a lean condition. Let me know about those items & what you find concerning the "boots".

@The13thSword

Жыл бұрын

Also, here's another link I have on file that can help you out (hopefully) an online V-Star 650 Service Manual: www.manualslib.com/manual/833178/Yamaha-Xvs650.html

I have a 2000 and it has been still for a WHILE, bought it and trying to get it back on the road. The choke cable (I thought) was old, so I ordered a new one and install it but, the choke does release on the carbs. Checked the choke are that between the carbs that has a spring on it but, it doesn't want to move. I'm wondering it the carbs at the choke is frozen up with the gunk that regular gas does to the carbs. Am I on the right track or can you give me other options to look for. Much Appreciated

@The13thSword

3 жыл бұрын

Most chokes that stick just need a good cleaning with carb cleaner spray, and working it back & forth to get rid of any gum, varnish or other solid material that may be keeping it from moving freely. That would be a first move. If the bike has been sitting a long time you can easily expect that the pilot jets are clogged up as well. It would be a good move to clean those out as shown in the video, as well as totally spray out the insides of the carbs with carb cleaner. That will "melt" any hard deposits & flush out any junk or trash that is in them. It would also be good to spry a good amount of cleaner into each jet and any open passages that you can see. This can get rid of any blockages you can't see inside the carbs.

@rickpursley

3 жыл бұрын

@@The13thSword The varnish was hard but, some prying and I got it to move and then cleaned it so I works fine now. Appreciate the advice.

@The13thSword

3 жыл бұрын

@@rickpursley Good work!

i have similar issue with my '04 vstar 650... would aftermarket or "better" carbs be a better option? I've cleaned out the carbs 3 times after winter getting ready for riding season, kind of getting sick of doing that. looking for a good upgrade

@The13thSword

3 жыл бұрын

Some out there may not agree with me, but a carb is a carb when it comes to basic function. Just because a carb is "aftermarket" won't make it any less prone to clogging up in the off-season. To try & prevent having to do the yearly "unclog & cleanout" there are a few things you can do. Simplest of all (and FREE as well!) is after the last ride of the season, completely drain the gas tank of fuel, then start the bike & run it totally out of gas. This will ensure that there is very little to no gas left in the carbs at all, to later dry up , cause deposits or clogs inside, especially in the tiny passages like the pilot (idle) jets. If you want to go further than that, there are drain screws on the fuel bowl covers that you can take out to get the last drops of fuel out of there. I'd also blow a bit of compressed air in there (gently!) to quickly evaporate any bits of liquid gas left in the carb(s). The other thing you can do, if you aren't going to drain the fuel out for storage of the bike, is to use a chemical fuel stabilizer, like STA-BIL or similar. This stuff supposedly prevents the fuel from oxidizing and drying out, and leaves clog causing deposits. I've never used stuff like this myself, but I have heard from some people that it does work. One other thing. Where & when possible if you will not be draining the fuel out for bike winter storage, make sure you last fill-up is with Ethanol-free gasoline. The "regular gas of today with up to 10% Ethanol content seems to break down quicker, AND the Ethanol will also draw in moisture from air humidity. This can contribute greatly to the fuel breaking down, "going bad" and causing clogging. And this has been shown to happen in 60 days or so, so having Ethanol gas in the system over the entire winter? Yeah, no wonder you have a mess to clean up every year. Non-Ethanol gas is more stable and seems to last longer in storage before it breaks down. For what it's worth, after I did the pilot jet cleanout job in the video, we switched to using only Non-Ethanol gas. And we've left the bike sit all winter (4 months plus) without being run, and so far I have NOT had to take the carbs apart again to clean them out. This is 3 years running so far.

@kenwittlief255

3 жыл бұрын

@@The13thSword you and big mike are suffering from the same simple oversight ethanol fuel does degrade in just a little over a month and forms jelly like goop in your tank and your jets. Sta-bil or Seafoam is THE cure. $2 worth the Seafoam will keep 4 gallons of fuel stable for over a year. ANY time you park your bike and think you might not ride it for a month or more, pour 4 oz in the full tank. DO NOT drain your tank for the winter. Vstar bikes have steel tanks and they will rust if left empty - you want the tank full if the bike is parked long term. E0 gas is another solution but you will need to drain all the fuel out of the tank and then fill it with regular octane E0. Where I live many stations sell E0 premium octane, and only 2 sell regular octane E0. These bikes are jetted to run on regular octane and will run lean on premium. Its less work to go to walmart and get a pint of Seafoam for $8, and pour 4 ounces into your full tank for storage. Ride the bike for a mile to fill the float bowls and you are good for up to 2 years. Nice job on the video, but I have to add - even if your bike was parked with unstabilized fuel, just running a tank with Seafoam mixed it will almost always clean the jets, no need to take the carbs apart unless the jets are totally plugged and it will not run. Even then I would try filling the float bowls with pure Seafoam and a turkey baster on the fuel line, and letting that soak overnight. If it starts the next day, run that tank with 4 ounces of seafoam thru the bike. If you take care of your fuel and stabilize it as needed, and use a carb cleaner like Seafoam when the bike sputters, you should never need to pull the carbs off a motorbike to clean them.... Never!

@The13thSword

3 жыл бұрын

@@kenwittlief255 I won't argue with someone who has experience that I do not. If you say it works, I'll take your word for it. I've just never used the stuff. I'm not at all sure where you are getting the info about an empty fuel tank rusting if left empty. Yes, the tanks are made of steel, but they also have an inner coating over that steel. Even if that coating is missing in places to uncover the raw metal, I have no idea how it would rust just because it is empty, while also being sealed with the gas cap on it, and the fuel shut off closed at the other end. The only way that could happen is if water was left inside. I have "dry stored' bikes & other vehicle before with completely empty tanks and not had any rust problems inside the tanks. Of course, I did properly prep these tanks, e.g., completely drained of fuel, interior air dried thoroughly, and then making sure it was completely closed off to atmospheric air. Sure, it only takes a few dollars & seconds to pour in Stabil or similar, and that's fine. But like I said, I've never used it and preferred to just do the prep instead of the expense. It's just my way, but it does work for me.

@kenwittlief255

3 жыл бұрын

@@The13thSword I was on a Vstar motorcycle forum for several years. Goopy fuel in the carbs in the spring, rusty tanks, kickstand kill switches, hydro locked clutch plates, and stripped spark plugs and drain plug threads were very common issues with new riders, or people who got bikes that sat for years.... Oh and putting "enhanced" car oil in the bike and the clutch starts slipping. About 2 years ago the forum was over run with religious and political BS, and I couldnt stand it anymore, But I learned a lot from other experienced riders and mechanics. There are a lot of 'miracle cure' fluids sold for motor vehicles and most of them are snake oil, but fuel stabilizers for E10 gas, and carb cleaners really do work. 8 seasons on my 650, and 3 years on my Royal Star, both bikes are 100%. 50k miles on both bikes since I got my license.

@The13thSword

3 жыл бұрын

@@kenwittlief255 No doubts here at all boss, you level of knowledge is apparent. You might consider doing some vids on these bikes yourself, if you haven't already. The response on my pilot jet vid has been beyond my expectations, and really shows there is a great need for good and CORRECT knowledge on these bikes.

I have the same bike. I cleaned both the pilot and main jets thoroughly in both carbs. But the problem i am having is the bike just idles, and when i give it more throttle it shuts off. also when it idles the front cylinder is not working and the air is cold when i feel it on the exhaust. i opened the air filter. when i cover the air hole completely the bike works fine i can even ride it. for some reason its sucking in too much air (replaced the air filter but the problem persists). can you tell me what i need to do....please . thank you

@CalebsCars

4 жыл бұрын

I'm having the same issue. Did you ever figured it out?

@smbengineeringllc9035

4 жыл бұрын

@@CalebsCars NO i have not been able to....i even replaced both jets, in both carbs, and spark plugs, but still the problem is there. I will keep trying to find a solution, and will let you know if i can, and if you find a solution, let me know please, thank you

@danwalters9781

4 жыл бұрын

Check valve clearance and spark strength and colour have this problem continuously with Chinese quad bikes also earth wires to increase spark the cold exhaust pipe will leave a wet residue and you'll smell the petrol on your hand if it's a spark problem if it's compression it will be half sooty as well

@kenwittlief255

3 жыл бұрын

the bike is jetted for the factory air filter and air box. they are not optional. If you had the carbs off and did not get the airbox clamps on right the bike will not run right, if at all. if you 'opened up' the air box or changed the air filter to something else, and did not rejet the carbs for the air increase, it will be way too lean to run also possible you have a vacuum leak between the carbs and the heads - google how to find it, there are several ways

@smbengineeringllc9035

3 жыл бұрын

@@kenwittlief255 thank you

nice vid. i assume your a fingerstyle guitar player?

@The13thSword

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks. I wish. Those guys get all the girls :^)

mine was blocked too , i put new ones in

thats my problem bro. did you solve this issue?

@The13thSword

11 ай бұрын

Yes, cleaning out the pilot jets solved the overall issue. If that isn't what you meant please be more specific & I'll answer as well as I can.

Working on my 650cc 2007 V star carbs it would idle ok But not accelerate / rev UP !.....One idle jet was plugged....it was blown clean and the other carb was checked too..it was ok...it was put back together and started UP...it still had a terrible stutter off idle....Thinking back...the hole was open But the hole in both idle jets was very very tiny...this bike was stored with gasohol for way over one year and i think the idle jet has a bad ring around the tiny hole from the chemical reaction of the gasohol....its so small only a pin could pass thru it.....does that sound like a build up around the idle jets hole...And what would you use to clean it out ! Thank You.

@The13thSword

4 жыл бұрын

You are right, the idle jet or pilot jet hole is very tiny, so it is very easy for it to get clogged up. Stored over a year with Ethanol laced gas can often cause these problems. The alcohol can attract water from the atmosphere, and that water can cause corrosion; basically creating aluminum oxides from the metal of the carb that can clog it up. Best solutions I have are the following. You need to completely remove the idle jet/pilot jet from the carb & soak it in some carb cleaner to loosen up any deposits that may be in it. An overnight soak in a closed container works well. Then use a sewing needle or pin to clear the hole, & blow it out with compressed air. Make sure you hold on tight to the jet! If it gets blown out of your hand, you may well lose it for good! I usually hold jets over an empty cardboard box so if this happens I don't lose the jet. Then hold it up to a strong light source & visually confirm that the hole is completely open before reinstalling in the carb. You should do this on BOTH carbs. Be aware that the jets themselves may NOT be your problem. Storing the bike for over a year with Gasahol left in the carb can cause other problems. The internal passages of the carb might also be clogged, so even a perfectly clean jet might still cause the symptom you describe. In that case, you need to remove the whole carb, soak it in carb cleaner & blow out every passage & hole you can find on it. To do the soaking, you can get a gallon "paint can" of carb cleaner, which usually comes with a parts holder basket inside, for $20-some at almost any parts store. Brands GUNK or Berrymans work well. Final things. Never leave a bike to sit with gas left in the carbs, especially Gasahol. I always shut off the fuel supply & let the bike run out of gas so there is little or no gas left in the carb bowl to cause these problems. I also run bikes on non-ethanol gas only to prevent these clog-ups. I do not use any gas additives with Gasahol as I have found they don't seem to work. Let me know how it turns out.

Looking for some help. I have a gs500f I bought used an it’s been severely neglected. It would run and do good for awhile an die down the road and sometimes it wouldn’t start back up other times it would first try. I cleaned the carbs but eventually the problem returned after like a day. Took it to a mechanic an they said it was the rusted tank and that was the only issue aside from a carb tune. I pay for that and the following day same thing happens it’ll randomly die or bog down then die. They wanted me to pay an extra 700 to coat the tank and re clean carbs short on cash I decide to wait. While cleaning the fairings I noticed a header Flange was completely off and one of the bolts was broken inside. I couldn’t get the bolt out so until I can get someone to get it out I picked up some rtv high temp smothered it on an placed the other bolt in an got it coming waited for it to seal and when starting it up it had high hanging revs and I couldn’t even use the choke. I adjusted the air fuel ratio and got rid of that but it still stalls when letting off gas but it will start back up more often first try.

@The13thSword

2 жыл бұрын

@will riseabove First off you have my sympathies. Getting everything right & fixed on bikes (or cars & trucks) that have been neglected can be a LOT of work. And if you are short of cash your only alternative is to do the work yourself. It's not always hard to do, but there is a lot of learning to be done along the way to get it right. I'll give you my opinions as best as I can. First things first, that rusted fuel tank has either got to get fixed properly or replaced. You can't keep putting rusty fuel into a bike's carbs & expect it's going to run fine. Those fine particles of rust can & will clog up the VERY small passages inside a carb. And that's why the problems returned after you did the carb cleaning. There are some brand new aftermarket fuel tanks out there that fit your bike, but they are about $300US & up. If you can't afford that & as long as the inside of the tank isn't flaking with rust (surface rust only with no rust holes), it is possible to fix the original tank for about $50US or less, but it can be a lot of work. There are videos on KZread about how to do this. It usually involves adding some gravel stones to thr tank & shaking it a lot to knock loose any bad rust, filling the tank with a rust conversion chemical (like Evaporust) to convert the rust to iron oxide, then pouring in a coating liquid like POR-15 Tank Sealer. If done right the rust will be gone & the tank could outlive the bike engine. :^) Once you have a non-rusty & clean fuel source, the carbs will need to be thoroughly cleaned inside & out, or possibly rebuilt with new gaskets & maybe other parts. Since you 1st cleaning did make it run "normally" for a while, you may be able to get away with just a cleaning. High temp RTV should NOT be used on exhaust parts. Exhaust parts get very hot & you could cause a fire that will burn the bike to the ground. It's always better to do it right. If it were my bike, I would totally remove the exhaust header to fix the broken bolt, & to put in a new exhaust header gasket. By broken bolt I assume you mean the head on the bolt is missing. There are tools available to get broken bolts out. Just search "broken bolt removal" on KZread & you'll see how it's done. BTW, sealing up that exhaust leak is actually (likely) actually what caused the "high hanging revs". It just made the carbs more effective in drawing air, along with more fuel. Adjusting the air/fuel leaner will make the revs come down, but now you're running lean, which isn't good for your engine in the long run. DO NOT RUN THE BIKE THIS WAY FOR ANY LENGTH OF TIME, meaning don't try to run it at all. Running any engine very lean is a good way to permanently damage the engine. Don't cause yourself more problems & expense. Again, if it were my bike, I'd get the tank, carbs & exhaust completely fixed first. There is no sense in trying to "tune" it until these things are fixed & working exactly the way they should be. Good news here is that it does run, so you likely don't have any major mechanical engine issues. You've got some decisions to make here. You can do the work yourself, but it's going to take time & learning, plus patience & some skill with tools. If you honestly don't think you have the patience & at least some skills, save your money for someone else to do it, if your end goal is to just ride. You didn't say what year the bike was but I did find an online service manual for you to reference here: chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/viewer.html?pdfurl=http%3A%2F%2Fforum.gs500.pl%2Fftp%2FStudi%2FSuzuki_GS_500_E_F_1989-2009_Service_Manual.pdf&clen=15761311&chunk=true That's on the GSTwin forum website, and there may be other info from other owners on there about servicing the GS500F.. If you are going to attempt repairs yourself, I highly recommend that you download that manual to your computer & save it. That way you'll always have it for reference. PDF service manuals online sometimes have a habit of disappearing. That's about all I can tell you for now. Let me know what you're going to do. If I can help with info in any way I'd be glad to help out.

@willriseabove6858

2 жыл бұрын

@@The13thSword thanks for the reply. I’ve been saving up for a mechanic to to the job but until then I keep a fuel cleaner in the tank and it’s worked out fairly well. I do not believe the rtv lasted very long it smoked a lot an it sounded like it shot out of the exhaust but it definitely runs better now. My plan was to test it on a quick ride but I was out over an hour lol so there’s probably very little rtv left but hopefully that other bolt can keep the flange on. I tried just a about everything to get the bolt out but nothing works so I’m hoping to let that sit until I can get it removed professionally don’t wanna risk cracking or tapping the block lol. I’d love to park the bike and wait until the proper repairs are made but as of now it’s my main ride to work. Also I appreciate the time you took to reply and look up manuals man it’s a 07 but as far as I know the years seem to be consistent between most of the gs line but I’m definitely downloading those manuals

@The13thSword

2 жыл бұрын

@@willriseabove6858 Understood. But don't be surprised if some of those running issues reappear. That rust in the tank can keep coming loose here & there & clog up yours carbs again. It would be best to get that tank cleaned out & sealed. And that exhaust leak sure isn't going to do you much good in the meantime. I hate to suggest it, but you could do a temp fix on that with some steel baling wire to hold the flange to the head, & minimize the exhaust leak. Wrap the center of the wire around the flange a few times, then run the ends of the wires around the cylinder to the back, then twist the wire ends to tighten & pull the flange into the head. Better than letting to just flop around loose & you might actually get it to almost seal up.. Once you do get that broken bolt out, the parts to fix it up are fairly cheap. Here is a parts diagram I found with part numbers: www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/2007/gs500f/muffler Also, whether you do the work or you pay someone to do it, make sure some anti-seize compound gets put on the bolt threads before they go in. That helps prevent breaking off bolt heads in the future from a seized bolt. Your '07 should be covered in that manual, just check the bike index at the start of it. It said it covers up to '09s so it should be in there. I'll be here if I can help with any other info or suggestions.

@phil4986

2 жыл бұрын

I am seeing rusting tanks as a common issue in many used motorcycles. It stopped me from buying a used Kawasaki 1600 nomad, known for this tank rusting happening. I think the ethanol crxp gas we are being force to use is really buggering up the untreated gas tanks. I am thinking about buying a Yamaha 650 used that I will be using Stabilo Ethanol treatment in every tank to try and stop what 13th sword has been force to repair every six months or so. If your gas tank is rusted ,you'll have to replace it. Which usually costs more then you want to put into the bike. But a rusty tank will clog your bikes fuel system over and over and over. The only reason I am buying a Yamaha Star 650 is that it is repairable by me cheap. There really is no other bike like it made in the same quantities with replacement parts availible everywhere cheap. Good luck with your Suzuki. These bikes just eat money when they were not cared for in the first place. I have even thought about buying a new Sv650 Suzuki but eight grand total is a tall order right now. Good luck with fixing your bike.

@The13thSword

2 жыл бұрын

@@phil4986 @Phil You are on point about the ethanol laced gas. The ethanol tends to attract moisture (humidity) from the air, since the tank is vented. And if the fuel tank is bare steel inside & not lined or coated in there, rust results. Sta-Bil does help but using non-ethanol gas is worth it, if you can find it. It would also be wise to drain the tank if you know you won't be riding the bike for a month or more. Or even using the Petcock valve to shut off fuel supply to the carb, & let the bike "run out of gas". That way there is no fuel just sitting in the carb to attract water or gum up over time.

What exhaust on the bike sounds awesome!

@The13thSword

4 жыл бұрын

As far as we know the exhaust pipes are stockers. Wife bought the bike used but we didn't get any info on what had been changed or upgraded. I've checked pics online of original bikes & the pipes look the same.

@dariom1785

4 жыл бұрын

Not stock that's way louder , stock is long with baffles

I wish there was a clip of the run before you cleaned it.

@The13thSword

5 жыл бұрын

I would have done it but it was close to impossible on this bike. I could barely get it started & running, but it would quit in a second (or less). I didn't think that would be much to look at. My mistake I guess. Usually when the pilot jet(s) get plugged like that, the bike will start & run (& keep running) on full choke, but not this time. If it does run on full choke but quits when you turn the choke off, even if fully hot, it's the pilot jets for sure.

Wish you lived close, I need a mobile mechanic!!

@The13thSword

5 жыл бұрын

Lol, thanks for the compliment, but I'm sure with the right info & some patience you can get almost anything done that you need to do. Just a matter of correct info & being thorough.

🙏🏾

What if those jets don't have something in it that you can't screw off ? I took one of my carb covers off the other day, and I couldn't get either one to come off. When I tried to stick something in one of those jets, it was like a hard brick. So I just sprayed some carb cleaner on the carb and put everything back together.

@The13thSword

2 жыл бұрын

Hard to say, since mine had the slots in them to use a screwdriver to take them out for cleaning. On this '99 they are there, but I do not know if maybe you have non-stock carbs installed by a previous owner, or maybe later model carbs that may have pressed in pilot jet tubes. I don't know what design changes Yamaha may have made with later models, and without knowing the bikes previous service history, it's just guessing. Carb cleaner may or may not loosen up that rock-hard deposit. The next best thing I would do is to completely remove the carb(s) & immerse them in a can of carb cleaner & let them soak at east overnight, then blow them out with compressed air, put them back on & see if it did the trick. I've also heard of some people filling the fuel bowls with Seafoam or similar and letting them soak, while the carbs are still on the bike. Works sometimes.

@derrick.l1870

2 жыл бұрын

@@The13thSword yeah ok, and I think these are like you said, pressed on jets. And I'm not exactly sure what the previous owner did either. But yeah preciate cha on that helpful information. I know a guy that I met the other day that helped me when I ran out of gas on the side of the road. He's gonna help me out a lil. He seems to know his stuff.

@The13thSword

2 жыл бұрын

@@derrick.l1870 Funny how that seems to happen when we need it to. :^) Just keep your ears open and take your time with the work. You can get it done.

@derrick.l1870

2 жыл бұрын

@@The13thSword ha ha ha yeah thanks Mann, and that's a most definitely thing I'll do. But I do have to admit, it REALLY FEELS GOOD TO RIDING ON IT. But yeah, I met a guy that's gonna help me out your Saturday with it. Hopefully we can get this problem solved. Because it ain't cool to keep giving it throttle while at the red light or stop sign

@The13thSword

2 жыл бұрын

@@derrick.l1870 That's the whole point of riding tho isn't it? "^) If it only problem is those clogged pilot jets you can get it solved, just keep working at it. This is one other thing particular to the Vstar that you may want to have a look at while you two are a5t it. The intake boots between the carbs & engine. They tend to get brittle and crack over time. This can make some holes in them & allow extra air in, which would make your air/fuel mixture lean. That could also account for having to constantly give it extra gas/petrol. Just give them a good visual inspection.

What about running Sea Foam mixed in the gas?

@The13thSword

3 жыл бұрын

You can try it but in my experience, getting the fuel bowl covers off & spraying them down inside works better. If there are any clogs inside & gas won't flow thru certain parts of the carb because of that, Seafoam isn't going to help that much, in my experience.

@kenwittlief255

3 жыл бұрын

@@The13thSword you can do both - take the covers off to drain and spray, then put them back on and use a turkey baster to fill the float bowls with pure seafoam, and let that sit overnight. If it works you avoid the risk of pulling jets off and stripping out screws and brass parts...

@The13thSword

3 жыл бұрын

@@kenwittlief255 If you're stripping screws & brass parts, you're not using the correct JIS screwdrivers to fit the screw heads, and/or you're not being careful enough. I've never had a problem with the right tools & just taking my time with it.

@kenwittlief255

3 жыл бұрын

@@The13thSword that is correct most people looking at youtube for directions on how to take a carb apart have no idea that every screwdriver sold in hardware and car parts stores in the USA WILL strip out the screws, because the angle on the Philips bit is not the same. a lot of people with no experience take their carbs apart and cannot put them back together correctly, and most of the time $2 worth the carb cleaner in the gas tank would have resolved the problem they were having. ALWAYS try a carb cleaner in the fuel before you take a carb off a motorcycle.

Good Stuff. I cleaned it out. lasted a couple days, then clogged again. changed out gas and sprayed carb cleaner into pilot jet port. will shoot some low pressure air into the jets after I install them again. did not do that before. what you think?

@The13thSword

3 жыл бұрын

The only things I might add are: 1. Cleaning out the tank to make sure there isn't any debris in there. With the seat off (3 bolts) it's only 1 bolt to get the tank off. 2. Check out your fuel lines. If they are over 10 years old you should probably replace them with new ones. Also, if you've run any "gasahol" in the bike (gas with Ethanol in it, which is common pump gas now), the Ethanol can degrade older rubber fuel lines from the inside, and they will shed rubber particles which can clog things up. 3. Replace your fuel filter to ensure a clean flow of gas to the carb. It's cheap insurance and not hard to replace with the tank off. Only other thing about the pilot jets. Letting them soak in carb cleaner or fresh gas for a while can help get some of the more stubborn stuff loose. I also use a small wire to push thru the hole in the jet to make sure it's open, as well as the visual check. After you get it run well again, I'd suggest that you only run NON-ethanol gas in it, to avoid these problems in the future. You can locate places in the US & Canada that sell it near you here - www.pure-gas.org/ If I can be of any more help let me know.

@michaelh.433

3 жыл бұрын

@@The13thSword Did the thing on the back carb. that was the drama bomb. it fired up and ran better today. I used a heat gun to check exhaust temp and now I think the front carb took a hit too.. it is laggin now! Thanks for all of your help.

@The13thSword

3 жыл бұрын

@@michaelh.433 Yep, unfortunately you almost always have to do both carbs. I've had to do this job 3 times since the wife has owned the bike (yes, it's her ride, not mine), and both carbs always have the blockage in the pilot jets. Sounds like you're pretty close to getting it running well. One other thing came to mind about this particular model of bike, that you might want to have a look at. After some time, the intake boots can develop cracks from long-term exposure to engine heat. They are a rubber/composite material that just don't hold up too well past 10 or more years. They often have vacuum leaks from cracks and sometimes even holes where material has "left the building". You can check them for vac leaks by using the old carb cleaner spray trick on them & listening for changes in engine speed. In case you need it, and to post the info here for anyone else looking, I have the part number for the intake boots for the Vstar 650 Classic as Yamaha Part # 4TR-13586-01-00 (rear boot) & 4TR-13596-01-00 (front boot). Dealer parts listings show them as still available for about $40 US each. I've also seen them for less on Ebay. Parts info source: www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/50044147f8700209bc78e801/intake Also, here's a link to a PDF shop manual I found online for the 650 Classic: braindump.donfick.com/media/9d/Yamaha%20v-Star%20650%20Shop%20Manual.pdf I have this document saved to my computers hard drive in case it disappears from the web.

@michaelh.433

3 жыл бұрын

@@The13thSword thank you, Sir. this a weird situation. Friends bike 2009. 175 miles on it. sat for many moons. making progress. will tear apart front carb tomorrow. tanx for all your help.

@The13thSword

3 жыл бұрын

@@michaelh.433 I'm sure you're going to get it going OK. It's the sitting around & the ethanol gas that makes this happen. The old "regular" non-ethanol gas could also do this, but it just took longer for it to happen. Dead common problem.

Nice vid thanks. Ignore nail comment keyboard warriors. Just gone from fuel injected bike back to carb xvs 1100 engine, carbs rammed in between cylinders

@The13thSword

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you for your support. I wish you safe riding.

nice video. I have the same bike with the same exhaust. My issue is it idles higher once it gets hot? Runs perfect other than that.

@The13thSword

3 жыл бұрын

I've not experienced that on this bike before. Usually the cause of higher idle when hot is a vacuum leak. You might want to have a close look at your intake boots, that connect the carbs to the head. After a certain amount of time (years) and many heatup/cooldown cycles, they have been known to develop cracks. The cracks can be the source of a vacuum leak. Our bike is 21 years old (a '99) and has cracking in the boots, but so far no vacuum leaks. I plan to replace them in the near future. You can look up your particular bike and find the intake boot part numbers here: www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/c/yamaha_motorcycle/parts Most Yamaha shops will either have them in stock, or can order them for you, or you can go thru Ebay. Lots of sellers there with genuine OEM parts for less $. Let me know if I can help with anything else.

@bobconner4277

3 жыл бұрын

@@The13thSword That sound great, thanks for the advice. I really enjoyed your video and appreciate your suggestions. I will check that out on my bike. BTW I sound about the same getting up off the ground so no need to apologize for the grunting and groaning. LOL

@bobconner4277

3 жыл бұрын

@@The13thSword Well, I bought new intake boots, ripped my bike apart and you were right on the money. Thanks so much for the assistance. The sad part is, now I have to wait 3 months or so until winter is over so I can test it out. I am excited!

@The13thSword

3 жыл бұрын

@@bobconner4277 I'm glad the info helped you out, and good work on getting it done! It's going to be so worth it when you get to riding again. If I can help you out with anything else concerning the bike, info wise, just give me a shout.

@bobconner4277

3 жыл бұрын

@@The13thSword do you have any tricks to get the top air box on the carbs. have been trying for hours. Finally had to stop before I break something, likely my head from smashing it off the wall.

get yourself a bike lift a few hundred dollars, worth it !! and the brush only gets thru a little, theirs six little holes in that orifice , gotta soak it

Wish the XVS1100 carb bowls/jets were that easily accessible. I wonder why Japanese engineers always went with one carb per cylinder on their bikes? Seems to me one carb would be fine on their V Twins...

@The13thSword

5 жыл бұрын

I had a look online at the XVS1100 carb setup; yeah, it does look like a pain to access, you're right. As far as the twin carb setup, I was told by a bike mechanic who knows his stuff it has to do with carb size. A single carb that could flow as much air as both cylinders need would be too large to fit within the space available. There is also the problem of trying to equalize the intake runners so one cylinder doesn't get less air/fuel mix. According to him, it's actually easier to assure even air/fuel flow/volume & easier to tune the two carbs rather than a single carb in a bike. There's also the added plus of more even power with the twin carb system over the single.

@stevelamb6390

Жыл бұрын

I miss my 1982 xs 1100 ! 4 carbs , a kickstarter & not over engineered yet miss 'em !

Can the next video be about cutting your fingernails?

@The13thSword

5 жыл бұрын

My nails are healthy & grow well, not sure what you problem is, or why you felt the need to comment. It would be like me saying why don't you cut your beard off. Think.

@moonrunner2623

5 жыл бұрын

@@The13thSword well, the video shows your hands. I had to suffer through seeing those nails on a man so i'm commenting on what I saw. I'm really just trying to help you man. Someone has too... Your friends dont give you a hard time about that?..Plus im concerned, Dracula is on the loose...

@The13thSword

5 жыл бұрын

@@moonrunner2623 Not amusing & quite a sexist comment sir, also a bit shallow IMO. So men are only supposed to have nubs for nails, or what? I take care of them, so I have the problem? I think not. No, my friends do not give me a hard time about it, because they know I am more than fingernails. And if you "had to suffer" maybe you could have just turned the video off? Be responsible for yourself, & don't put it off on others who are only trying to help people. That's the only reason for me posting videos to YT. Don't like it? Don't watch it, simple.

@moonrunner2623

5 жыл бұрын

@@The13thSword im just messing w ya... I like the video. great job on the bike. Informative, and the bike sounds awesome!..thanks for posting. I'm having issues with my V star... Probably a choke problem. Won't start unless I cover the air filter.... Also, do u give back scratches?..

@michaelh.433

3 жыл бұрын

@@The13thSword Hey Man, thinkin these cats that are concerned about your nails are not likely to even get gas on their Manicured hands and will not even attempt to repair their bike if they even have one.. ha ha ha. I personally grow my nails long for finger picking guitar and thumb nails long for opening boxes. Rock On Man!

That was painful to watch! Turned it off almost Immediately 🤣

@The13thSword

2 жыл бұрын

Advice - When you watch a KZread video and start feeling pain, turn it off & stop watching. It's up to you.

Trim your nails also very good content keep it up 👌🤙

@The13thSword

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you. Sure don't understand everyone's fascination with my fingernails. They are healthy & don't get in my way. They aalso make great gasket scrapers. :^)

@kryptoboi

4 жыл бұрын

The13thSword great vid, thanks for the post. It’s a hygiene thing. Long fingernails hold dirt, fecal matter, bacteria, etc. Hands are cleaner with short nails

@The13thSword

4 жыл бұрын

@@kryptoboi Hands are cleaner when they are clean. Having longer nails doesn't mean you stop washing your hands, does it? This subject is getting very tiresome.

@jimbob7559

4 жыл бұрын

@@The13thSword Also a great place to store dirt and filth to transfer to your sandwiches. Just cut the fuckin' things every couple of weeks when you have your shower. heh heh

@The13thSword

4 жыл бұрын

@@jimbob7559 My my, such an ugly attitude you have. I'm sure it gets you everything in life you wanted.

To all "BE CAREFUL" working close to the floats.....if you clean all the jets.you will have more issues with a damaged float !

@The13thSword

4 жыл бұрын

Or....you could simply remove the float pin & the floats first, and put them somewhere safe before you start cleaning jets. ;^)

why is evry godamn repaur video guy saying this is the Wifes bike, Assanying the bikes not for girls .

@kenwittlief255

3 жыл бұрын

because the guys who own 650s ride them all the time and they dont sit for months with E10 gas in them and end up full of goop the Vstar 650 if the most reliable bike ever made according to Consumer Reports, but you do have to take care of it.... and not let it sit for months unused

This carburetor doesn’t have a butterfly valve

nice video, but man those nails......

@The13thSword

4 жыл бұрын

Read my previous replies

Too much talking, just need to get straight to the point

@The13thSword

3 жыл бұрын

That's why KZread has a fast forward button.

@BonhamTheBarber

3 жыл бұрын

@@The13thSword that is true but, fast forward to where? Litterally had to sit thru this whole video to come out with nothing. Videos all over the place, just my input for your future videos.

@The13thSword

3 жыл бұрын

@@BonhamTheBarber Title says "Clogged Pilot Jets - Quick Carb Cleaning". I would think you should have at least come away with clogged pilot jets being a running issue, and that you need to clean them out if you are having running issues. I did mention near the top of the vid that this was the most common issue with bikes. I don't use a lot of editing for time on vids like this, because I want people to understand just what it takes to get the thing done. Sorry if that doesn't work for you.

no mechanic should have long fingernails

@The13thSword

2 жыл бұрын

When did I say I was a mechanic? I'm just a guy fixing a bike.

@LyonhartZ2

2 жыл бұрын

@@The13thSword I agree with you sir. Also, I want to say to you sir. Today, I was tasked with doing this same very job on my neighbor's VSTAR. (I am a Harley Guy) and I was saying "How does this guy forget to put the petcock back to ON" LOW AND BEHOLD.... I did the same thing when I finished the JOB. (I was a bit scared that the bike would not start. ) but I followed your instructions and because of that I saved myself a lot of headaches

@The13thSword

2 жыл бұрын

@@LyonhartZ2 No one is perfect and we're not machines. Yet. :^D I'm glad the info in the video helped you out.

The content of the video was fine. The fingernails are absolutely revolting. Dude…seriously…disgusting.

@The13thSword

3 жыл бұрын

This is the last time I respond to one of these comments. All others that come after will be deleted. You wouldn't say that to a woman now would you. So basically you are being sexist with your comment. Also, my nails are healthy, so what is your problem with that? Lastly & most importantly, they are mine and I will do with them what I want to. My nails have zero real effect on you or your life. You really ought to take a hard look at yourself when something like this bothers you so much. Intolerance is only going to bring you pain in life. Karma is real.

@tdublove9558

3 жыл бұрын

@@The13thSword spoken like a lion of Judah 👼🙏

@markchimmy

Жыл бұрын

First time watching your video, you made it simple to understand and informative I'm glad I did and I learned something from you that can hopefully save me time and frustration or even possibly money! So I thank you very much for taking the time helping others like myself!I really appreciate it sir!!! Be safe out there on the road riding with your wife, take care!👍