1973 Triumph Stag Diff and Nose extension part 1 - Parental warnings for profanity

Автокөліктер мен көлік құралдары

Hello and welcome back
In this video I investigate the growl from my back end 😁
Off comes the diff and nose extension. I also assess the diff sun and planet gear mesh
Enjoy
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Пікірлер: 33

  • @GoGreenBanana
    @GoGreenBanana3 жыл бұрын

    Enjoyed the Country & Western / line dancing interlude 🕺 music! Great instructive vid, look forward to part 2!

  • @churchhouseclassics

    @churchhouseclassics

    3 жыл бұрын

    Thanks 👍

  • @craiggladwell4009
    @craiggladwell40093 жыл бұрын

    Love a Stag day ! Must get around to having a few days on mine soon

  • @churchhouseclassics

    @churchhouseclassics

    3 жыл бұрын

    You should, mind you 2020 has been a b@stad and perhaps we should just cancel it and advance directly to 2021 👍🍻

  • @KJs581
    @KJs5812 жыл бұрын

    I commented on one of your earlier vids about the "cracking nose" and how a reinforced (braced) one is a good idea (mine failed, fitted one so it wouldn't again); I note this nose has the braces. I am about to (been putting it off) replace my quill shaft bearing. But while there will look at planet gear shims as you have (bit of a bugger to do, but while out mad if I don't. Car doesn't clonk, but is on edge of "allowable play", so should do while it is out....... That "no backlash" apparently is normal. You can make them reasonably tight (snug, not ridiculous), as once in, the rest of the diff is clunky, but the Planet thrust washers, being quite soft, are the "bit that has to give", and as they only move small amounts don't work very hard, ie during normal cruising just sit there until you get to a corner/break traction. I tap mine in so they are snug and that works well. If diff has had good oil flow, the sun gear thrusts are normally ok, and all slop can be taken up by planet thrusts. The original sun thrusts are metal (bronze type); but later on BL went to fibre. What the??? They are rubbish and don't last. But that is all many sell now. To me, "condition assessed" old bronze thrusts on the sun gears are FAR SUPERIOR to new fibre ones, but each to their own. I have some old diffs, so have a few I was able to use. But fibre parts taking load in a diff? I could never accept that, and with "old/orig" parts, I don't have to. The big thing to be careful of with Stags/sedans is there are two nose pieces. The height of the tube is different. If they are swapped, you MUST change the rear swingarm brackets to allow for the change in angle of the rear suspension. Easier to "get same nose height" one. The parts lists show that at a certain Comm number, the nose piece part No changes, as do the swingarm brackets. Good to see people doing these things still................... people who do this fewer and fewer every day. :-)

  • @churchhouseclassics

    @churchhouseclassics

    2 жыл бұрын

    All good information, glad you enjoyed the video👍🍻

  • @JonDingle
    @JonDingle3 жыл бұрын

    Hello squire! I have found that it is critical to make sure your shaft is well within tolerance before inserting. Another top video young man!

  • @churchhouseclassics

    @churchhouseclassics

    3 жыл бұрын

    Good tip!

  • @keithhiggins2967
    @keithhiggins29672 жыл бұрын

    Like to see you do a master cylinder refurb

  • @churchhouseclassics

    @churchhouseclassics

    2 жыл бұрын

    For the effort it is not worth it when there is good supply of new items. There is a circlip half way down the cylinder which retains the second piston and set of seals. You will invent new swear words trying to get it out

  • @chrisweedon3490
    @chrisweedon34903 жыл бұрын

    Excellent video of Part 1 Stag diff rebuild. When is the Part 2 rebuild going to be available, I am plucking up courage to do mine but would really like to watch part two first.

  • @churchhouseclassics

    @churchhouseclassics

    3 жыл бұрын

    Working on it 🍻

  • @gshort4707
    @gshort47073 жыл бұрын

    At 14:22 you are wearing a Wycombe Wanders top and crying. Don't worry, I'm sure they will do better next season 😂

  • @churchhouseclassics

    @churchhouseclassics

    3 жыл бұрын

    Damn it man, the season has barely started 🤣

  • @nigelbarton8350
    @nigelbarton83503 жыл бұрын

    Enjoyed the video, went through this when I rebuilt my diff as part of the resto. I couldn’t believe how tight the output flanges were on the splines even after the nut was off, broke my big heavy puller on them! Anyway, 2 thoughts. Firstly, do you have a tight rear prop joint putting strain on that quill shaft bearing? Secondly, have you checked that is a proper Stag diff (ratio, part number etc)? Reason being people used to fit 2500 diffs to get the lower 3.45 ratio for better cruising over the standard 3.7, but to do that you have to swap back plates and 2 of the holes don’t line up. So are those bodged bolts to hide that? Might explain the lack of gasket too- a Stag one doesn’t work.

  • @churchhouseclassics

    @churchhouseclassics

    3 жыл бұрын

    Prop is fine, 14 years is maybe the limit of the service life of a small bearing. Diff is from a TR6 / 2500Pi as I believe. Anyone got a 3.7:1 diff 😁

  • @nigelbarton8350

    @nigelbarton8350

    3 жыл бұрын

    PM sent to ChuchHouseClassics (all one word 😉)

  • @mikethompson7296
    @mikethompson72963 жыл бұрын

    I'd forget the ten pound jobby and spend the extra on something by SKF.

  • @chrisweedon3490
    @chrisweedon34903 жыл бұрын

    Looking forward to the Part 2 video. Quick question. If I remove the extension piece with the diff in situ, do you think that I can get to the diff nose oil seal and remove/replace it. I’m trying to avoid stripping the diff out as I’ll be doing this on my drive over a weekend. I have previously changed the pinion oil seal in situ on small Triumphs (Dolly & Spit). I noted your advice on buying a quality extension nose bearing rather than a cheapo one - thanks.

  • @churchhouseclassics

    @churchhouseclassics

    3 жыл бұрын

    getting the diff off is easy that I see no reason who or even how you might change the nose bearing with the diff still bolted up in place 👍

  • @KJs581

    @KJs581

    2 жыл бұрын

    To me it is far easier to remove the diff than the nose. Diff is heavy, but nose piece has diff/suspension arms/drive shaft etc all hanging off it. Maybe it's just me...... :-)

  • @porteog
    @porteog3 жыл бұрын

    I miss Sandy the Landie......

  • @churchhouseclassics

    @churchhouseclassics

    3 жыл бұрын

    He will be back, fret not 👍🍻

  • @seedsaboveitall608
    @seedsaboveitall608 Жыл бұрын

    This is what happens when you go cheap!! Why would you put a £7 bearing in ???

  • @churchhouseclassics

    @churchhouseclassics

    Жыл бұрын

    you would be shocked at the morons who think they found that bargain "too be good to be true"

  • @garethdavies7326
    @garethdavies73263 жыл бұрын

    Buy a SKF and be done with it. “2RS” is the code for 2 rubber seals BTW, i.e. sealed bearing

  • @blah5533
    @blah55332 жыл бұрын

    I think you've measured that wrong. You've measured the gap on both sides , added them together and divided by two. That would be fine IF the planet gears could move across the shaft, but they can't as the sun gears prevent that. You have to adjust each side according to what the gap is on that side. If you have a gap of 0.050" on one side and 0.060" on the other, adding together and dividing by two would result in one side being over tight and the other too slack.

  • @churchhouseclassics

    @churchhouseclassics

    2 жыл бұрын

    You are correct, the issue is that access is bad, and the shims are dished. This was the best way that I could measure.

  • @andywoolhouse105
    @andywoolhouse1053 жыл бұрын

    Richard you need to talk louder.

  • @churchhouseclassics

    @churchhouseclassics

    3 жыл бұрын

    PARDON 👍😁😋

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