Thanks guys. This was very helpful.

Hallo Grüße Euch! Ich kann zwar Eure Sprache nicht verstehen aber ihr macht das Klasse! Es ist immer wieder schön dabei zuzuschauen wie alte Technik wieder aufgebaut wird! MkG matty

@jessesvintagegarage765

Жыл бұрын

Danke für den tollen Kommentar. Leider kann ich kein Deutsch. Obwohl ich es immer wollte. Meine Familie kam vor langer Zeit aus Deutschland. Ich freue mich zu hören, dass dir dieses Video gefallen hat. Altes nachbauen macht Spaß. Danke noch einmal. Hoffentlich funktioniert dieser Übersetzer richtig.

Hi guys, I noticed you seem to have wound the springs in past the point where the stud is flush ? I did the same but was told that they should be flush, I tried winding back out but it was too strong to unwind, I noticed the tool you use has a lot more leverage though, Great video 👍

@jessesvintagegarage765

10 ай бұрын

Thanks for the great comment, Well the book does say set the springs flush but it's very annoying when they sometimes slip when doing a rapid acceleration through the gears and you find it slipping at 3rd only to go back and tighten it up a bit! That's why we tighten them a little past flush every time.,

@nicnak4475

10 ай бұрын

Ok, thanks for that. 👍@@jessesvintagegarage765

Like the spragg.

Nice video, i was waiting to see how you adjusted the primary chain, I heard you at the end say you got your 3/8 but how did you do that. I have a 67 tiger and i could heat the chai slapping in there. I believe its done on the back bottom. Can you tell me how to adjust that, thank you

@jessesvintagegarage765

11 ай бұрын

Thanks, You take a plug out on the bottom way at the rear about at 5 oclock inside where that plug came out there's a slotted screw about a 1/2" in it's hard to adjust without the proper adjustment tool but a very long round shaft screw driver can do the job as the exhaust is in the way unless it's off. To check freeplay you remove the plug and move the chain up and down with your finger but the outer primary cover should be off to adjust and get a proper free play measurement with a rule.

@nickpanhead7209

11 ай бұрын

@@jessesvintagegarage765 thank you Jesse, I appreciate you getting back to me, I'll be doing that this week. Would you happen to know what feeler guage size for intake valves, and also exhaust. That will help out also. I can't find my manual, thanks again

@jessesvintagegarage765

11 ай бұрын

@@nickpanhead7209 .002" clearance on intake valves and .004" on the exhaust valves.

@nickpanhead7209

11 ай бұрын

@@jessesvintagegarage765 thank you so much, that to will be done this week

@nickpanhead7209

11 ай бұрын

@@jessesvintagegarage765 just want to thank you again, for the information I needed. Just to let you know I found my manual today. Thanks again. Keep up the great video's

Great video, but you should have really soaked those clutch plates in oil overnight. They will end up burning on your first ride. Stay Tuned oh and by the way Stay Tuned, Stay Tuned lol.

@jessesvintagegarage765

2 жыл бұрын

Ha ya I am working at not trying to say the stay tuned phrase as much if barely in the upcoming videos, I just felt like I needed to say it when I broke away for a moment but the video is continuous and the saying is unnecessary thanks for bringing it to my attention.

@jessesvintagegarage765

2 жыл бұрын

As for the clutch situation, That is a good question and something I did not mention in to detail, Oiling the clutch disks is mostly a manufactures recommendation and a personal preference situation. Like, Barnett Kevlar clutch disk sets require you to pre oil them first, The original cork type require you to pre oil them first, But with this bike we install a Aerco 7 plate conversion kit, this type of disk set has a new friction material. This material keeps the bonded plate from sticking to the steel plate. This special 7 plate kit is not required to pre oil but you do need to clean them first before installation and it is suggested that you can use lighter clutch springs for an easier clutch operation as well, I hope this helps

@martindekker8203

2 жыл бұрын

@@jessesvintagegarage765 It's still a wet clutch design tho. Personally, I'd still soak them prior to install just to be on the save side.

Are both the rotor and stator original? I see the year 72 marked on the rotor, so I'm guessing they are. I just replaced the rotor and stator on my 64 TR6 this weekend. I was upgrading the bike from 6v to 12v's and the old charging system was a bit sketchy so I just tossed it. Now the bike is charging great...and my lights are working so much better with the 12v set up. The design for the stator wire hole seems better on the later bikes. On my 64 the wire goes into a hole in the primary then comes out under the motorcycle. For whatever reason the wire didn't want to push through the hole. I had to cut off the bullet connectors and the sleeving then put them through one wire at a time.

@jessesvintagegarage765

2 жыл бұрын

Yes they were original Lucas parts, I got the rotor from a vintage bike dealer the original one for this 71 wasn't working right when I originally bought this bike 10 years ago, its amazing but sometimes when working with these old bikes original parts are the best to use cause aftermarket parts are junk, but then some original parts are junk and need to be replaced by better aftermarket parts.

Hey where is the boat that I can rotate my engine with please reply

@jessesvintagegarage765

9 ай бұрын

Are you talking about the red coated rod that were protecting the connecting rods with and locking it from rotating, cause that is something we made, I would like to help you but I need more information cause during this moment the engine can be rotated easily

@420hondakid8

9 ай бұрын

@@jessesvintagegarage765 so I have a triumph t140 750 1971 and the motor is seized where the motor has been sitting for so long and I’ll put some stuff down it and now I’m just trying to turn it over without using the Kickstarter

@jessesvintagegarage765

9 ай бұрын

@@420hondakid8 Well if it was mine I'd remove the head and get a 12 inch long 2 x 2 or 1.5" round wooden dowl place it center of one piston and hit it down and alternate back and forth from piston to other piston don't be afraid to hit it very hard because you need to break the rings free where they rusted to the cylinders those pistons will need to be replaced with new anyways most always the cylinder will need bored to get past the rust to clean it anyway. Hopefully the pistons aren't all the way down but there's ways around that also.

@420hondakid8

9 ай бұрын

@@jessesvintagegarage765 ok appreciate it

@420hondakid8

9 ай бұрын

@@jessesvintagegarage765 let me ask this where could I get rebuild kits for the motor

DID YOU CHECK SPROCKET ALIGNMENT IMPORTENT VERY IMPORTENT FOR CHAIN LIFE .CHRIS AUS

@jessesvintagegarage765

Жыл бұрын

Yes we actually did that when we replaced the miss matched parts in the primary years ago when we first got this bike, it had both 650 and 750 parts inside cobbled together, once we assembled it with the correct 650 parts everything lined up,