Nice video m8! First time for me to see the quick tool change I have designed in action, very cool. Thanks for using that!

@DarkArtGuitars

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for making the model, it works really well!

@Ringmaster860

4 жыл бұрын

I also mounted my hotend and Laser with this, its really awesome. Also i Havent seen any changes in z Offset after swapping to another tool. Keep up the good ideas.

Dude was drinking water in the moment 11:13 and I spilled everything hahaha very funny the way you say it and the pause after.

Great video. Thank you for the information.

Hey I just subbed (should have subbed awhile back). I love your videos and your descriptive reviews! Please keep hitting up 3d printing/diy manufacturers and make more content! US origin.

I got a 2.5w laser and acryllic works, but with alot of passes only. Great video btw.

Good explanation. Thanks

Good job a lot of thanks

would only use the laser with proper laser glasses (with the proper wavelight). With this high power lasers you can damage your eyes really easy. Even indirect reflexions can damage your eyes with this strong lasers. The dangerous part is that you dont feel it until its to late, it doenst hurt at all. Would really recomment even to build a close system

They're threatening to sue teaching tech for a bad review..

You can put a black tape over transparent acrylic, and as the deph, well use the z axis to keep always the correct distance of the cutting line =)

I'm hoping that fiber coupled higher power diode lasers start to become a viable low cost option. Endurance has one they are developing. Practically no weight on the gantry too.

Interesting review of this 10 w laser. I don't have a 3D printer yet, but the CR10 is high on my list of desirables. I was surprised when you were saying that the 10w is not all that capable of burning through the wood since I was under the impression the Forge printer/laser was in the lower range of about 4w, but I'm not that sure. Is it possible that there is a problem in NOT using a 3D printer that is meant to drive a laser as part of its abilities? I'm not talking about the power connection because you addressed that adequately. You mentioned the full range of opaque-nesses from clear acrylic and wood but I was interested in engraving other substances like leather and plastics. Any response on these?

Is there any way of moving the Z axis throughout the cutting process to compensate for the material thickness and maintain the laser focused on the cutting point? Any way other than manually editing the G-code, of course.

Hi great video thank you quick question I’m new to 3D printing and have ender 3 pro and I’ve bought the laser module for it can this be used to cut 2/3mm ply wood ? Like shapes ect sorry to ask but there’s not many videos on the laser for ender 3 pro

Hmm feels like there needs to be a gamma curve to convert greyscale to power in a visibly linear way.

Great video! I'd like to see if it can cut the dollar tree foam board a.k.a. 5mm depron foam with paper on both sides.

@DarkArtGuitars

5 жыл бұрын

I don't know where I can get that around here, but I would think it could, the paper won't be a problems, and the only issue I could see with the foam would be it being too white, but with the paper I think it would be ok.

Have you tried cutting foam inserts with the laser?

I only want to cur 2-3mm balsa wood, which laser would you suggest ?

Lightburn is 5 star product that works very well.

Which material have you used as the build plate?

I have a question. The laser modules I am seeing on the internet has 3 cables (12v, Pwm, Gnd) but the blower fan has two pins. How can I modify 3 pin laser to my 2 pin fan connection? Thank you.

question ,, what u do to printer fw to run laser is question ?

Would be interesting to see it cutting woods with air assist.

@DarkArtGuitars

5 жыл бұрын

I didn't even think about that. I'll definitely try that!

@KB-jy5hr

5 жыл бұрын

@@DarkArtGuitars Pretty easy to set up, ill definitely keep an eye out for the video!

@mikekiske

5 жыл бұрын

@@DarkArtGuitars Can it do things like this: /watch?v=DsmKfSvpXzA ? Thank you.

Hey just so you know, that bad smell from cutting acrylic is actually pretty toxic!

Very convincing animatronics, but but it's still in uncanny valley territory.

Why would you spend $600 on a little laser attachment, when you can spend like.. $349.59 for a 40W CO2 laser engraving full on MACHINE from ebay?

@SaitoGray

4 жыл бұрын

Yeah that's crazy.

@Reach3DPrinters

4 жыл бұрын

Exactly... and really, this laser might only actually put out 4w, maybe less. You can buy legitimate 2.8w lasers on aliexpress for like $80. Im tempted to test an ali express 5w laser for like $130... I bet it is at least as powerful as this... but then again, for only $200 more, I could get a REAL co2 laser... Ive been thinking about it... my brother owns a full spectrum HL40-5G-110 40w and that thing was like over $2000! Yikes!

@MrCcfly

4 жыл бұрын

@@Reach3DPrinters how can u know how much laser module have real wats ?

@TheDrewker

4 жыл бұрын

Spoken like someone who only sees these machines on youtube/ebay and has never had to find space for them or spend hours trying to get it working. If you're willing to spend $400, it's not hard to justify another $200-$250, if you place any value on your time/sanity and want the thing to last. If money is the concern, why not buy a laser for $50-$100 and mount it to your printer? Saves hundreds, you can use a gantry system you already trust, and you don't have to find room for yet another "full on" chinese CNC machine. It also comes down to what you want to do with it. This type of laser is mostly for engraving, but can cut thin material in multiple passes. A 40W C02 laser is mostly for cutting. You don't need anywhere near 40W for engraving. You don't even need 10W, or 5W. If you actually want a cutter - great! Go for it. If you just want to etch/engrave, going way overkill on the laser might not be the best idea, especially when you're buying cheap. Extra watts doesn't necessarily mean "extra headroom." It often means decreased efficiency, decreased resolution, and decreased accuracy. Ever tried to measure current draw with those little panel mount ammeters? If you're only measuring 5-10A, don't get the 50A ammeter... unless you're okay with a very "ballpark" measurement. What sounds crazy to me is spending $350-$400 on some rando from ebay. I just want to engrave (mostly acrylic) so I've thought about those $200ish "3018" machines, but that's about the most I'm willing to gamble on some sketchy chinese shit. Now that I have a printer (and space is still at a premium), I'm just going to buy a $50 laser module. Buying from some random ebay shop, there is literally no telling what they'll ship you. That shit is cheap for a *reason* - they use low quality materials (possibly even toxic in many cases), and they have slave-like working conditions where people build the stuff by hand instead of machining it. You know how their ads always say something like "dear friend, the measurement by hand, may be empty for accurate, please understand?" That "full on MACHINE" is nothing but the laser, gantry, control board, enclosure, plus bolts and bearings. That's what makes it seem like such a great deal "oh wow a _whole MACHINE,"_ when really you're just buying the laser and then way overpaying for a bunch of low quality parts that will almost certainly fail in a few months. Sorry for the long comment, I'm just really tired of these type of comments on DIY videos. As if the goal of every project is to find the most masochistic, most time consuming, and most cheap ass method. All because Joe Blow Commenter happens to have more time than money, no experience, and really no real plans of ever starting the hobby - just a desire to nitpick something. This is why we can't have nice things - nobody's willing to pay.

@TheDrewker

4 жыл бұрын

@@Reach3DPrinters lol, you clearly haven't looked at Endurance's site. If that 10W laser doesn't put out 10W, I'll cut off my left thumb and stream it live (and I write left handed).

Is it possible to use the laser on a 3D printer to pre-heat/bond two layers? The idea is that while printing, the laser beam will heat the lower layer while the nozzle is printing the current layer. Not sure if I was clear. Especially in big prints, lower layer are already cold while you print the current layer on top, so the idea is to use the laser to "glue" the 2 layers. Does it make sense ? From what I understand we can manage the laser beam and power so we would not need to use it at full power, but to hear at lower temperature that what the nozzle is printing at. Let say we are printing at 230, the laser would need to hear the lower layer at 180 (?). Of course the laser will point very close where the nozzle is printing.

Hobbyists hooking up high power lasers to their 3d printers... what could go wrong? Nice video though - a lot of good points.

@macrumpton

4 жыл бұрын

It is a stretch to call these high powered. They can barely cut cardboard.

What size printer is he using?

using air assist will get better quality and cleaner cuts

Ooph glad you can get a 10w for 200 now...

can you recomend a laser that can cut aluminum sheet. soda can thickness

@DarkArtGuitars

2 жыл бұрын

You will have to look into fiber lasers for that, diode lasers are sadly not able to cut any metal.

What I´m searching for is a solution to cut 0,6x0,8 small pieces of copper. Thickness of copper ~0,035mm. Mayber there´s somebody out there who can help?

I like the video but i'm not sure you should "support" a company with such iffy business practices... You can also try paint (marker/spray) on top of the clear acrylic to get good engraving results!

@marco.dallago

5 жыл бұрын

I hope he doesn't knows what actually the company is really doing..... otherwise would be really bad...

@originaltrilogy1

5 жыл бұрын

@@marco.dallago What are they really doing?

I want to convert my 3d printer to do back glass removal of the iphone housings. Can you indicate to me, whitch wattage to use for that? I was thinking abaout 40w

The main problem with uv laser (400nm) is that the reaction is really bad on metal surfaces. So for metal, an IR (1064nm) fiber laser is to prefare. But for private use, I would go for UV or CO2 since most of the things we mark and cut is organic materials. What we need is a reaction on the material, which can be very difficult, therefor it wont help very much to spend money on a higher power, instead go for a second machine with another laser technique.

using real values between 0-255 feels just so wrong XD

Well i thought I was gonna get a mk3

for that price couldn't you just build a co2 laser?

@DarkArtGuitars

5 жыл бұрын

probably, that's a much more involved endeavor however, compared to the more like 1 hour assembly for this one.

@KrustyKlown

5 жыл бұрын

@@DarkArtGuitars $400 CO2 40W laser cutting machines with a 12" x 8" cutting area, are a dime a dozen, assembled, not DIY kits.

@originaltrilogy1

5 жыл бұрын

@@KrustyKlown Yeah, but most of them barely work at all, to be fair.

hello. I have a 3D printer Flying Bear Tornado 1 power 24v. I Want to install a diode laser on it. In order to cut thick paper in one pass. Please tell me what laser power to choose? Will I need to feed air to the cutting area to cut the paper?Will this 2500 mW laser module work for me? Здравствуйте. У меня 3д принтер Flying Bear Tornado 1 питание 24 в. Хочу установить на него диодный лазер. Для того, чтобы одним проходом вырезать плотную бумагу, как ватман. Подскажите пожалуйста какую мощность лазера выбрать? Понадобится ли мне для реза бумаги подавать воздух в место реза?Подойдёт ли мне этот лазерный модуль 2500 мВт? aliexpress.ru/item/32919376971.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.457c2e0eemm4c0&fbclid=IwAR1ROUziKtGqZDj8Qgc9oLAKnum25eRMk-G7qEf5F8RPZD5FT7AwOt-ywBU

This crap the ender 10w laser didn’t cut basswood not even cardboard

the laser is $545USD ffs... i can buy whole 30W laser cutter for that much money...

You can buy an entire chinese made 40w tube laser cutter for less than $400.00 bucks. A LOT less. It will easily cut anything he is trying here. So this company sells 3 10w lasers combined to get 30w? Is that 600 x 3 for $1,800?! YIKES!

For the love of god.. who uses millimeters per minute? That is.. horrible way to use units. We are no where near of understanding it in our heads at these speeds and you need to convert it to per hour for any kind of calculations on costs or energy consumption.. So.. i ask you nicely just once: who taught you to use millimeters per minute? You can show me in this pic where he touched you..

@DarkArtGuitars

5 жыл бұрын

I don't like it either, however most laser related programs use it, so I used it in that context. Otherwise I use mm/s.

Save yourselves time and money people, and just get a Co2 Laser. These diode lasers are junk as of right now in comparison. They are cool for something to dick around with, but that is as far as it goes. The time span they take to accomplish a raster is dismal and the focus point is shit in all honesty. You can buy a chinese K40, (Which is actually a 30 watt machine) and upgrade it by throwing out the MO mirrors for Si plated units, and most importantly get a quality DSP controller like a lightobject T9 and have a machine that can raster at speeds of up to 500mm/second and cut 5mm acrylic and ply at speeds of up to 15mm/second with focus lines 10 times more columnated for superior accuracy with DPI scan gaping of well over 600dpi is desired. Use Corel Draw with exporting plugins is also a must if you plan to actually do anything with any real speeds for business. You can do all this for about $1K

@michaelmcguire8811

2 жыл бұрын

You should make a video about it. Maybe put it on KZread.

Wtf even is that haircut?

You can cut right through 3-4 mm thick colored acrylic with a 2.5 watt laser. You can also cut right through 3-4 mm plywood your METHODS are all wrong! much FASTER feed and many MORE passes! Your explanation about why you cannot cut through thicker wood pieces is just plain wrong. Again, Faster feeds and more passes and blow the kerf out with air! You can cut through ANY thickness of material with any laser that can even etch that particular material given enough time. (In high school I cut a highway transport BUS in half in 96 hours with a 20 watt C02 laser as an extra credit project) Colimating the beam will HELP but just re-focusing after every few passes (OR LOWERING THE HEAD....DUH!) will allow the focus to be at the plane of the cut. I never re-focus I simply lower the head on every pass just like you usually raise the head on every pass when printing. I use an 8 watt ($120) blueray laser to cut aluminum sheets up to 1mm thick! You have to condition the surface so you don't reflect all of the light by texturing and dying the oxide. After the first or second pass the surface is well coupled to the frequency of the blue laser and can continue the cut without further surface treatment. It's just difficult to get things started on aluminum. It takes a LONG time but you can laser cut aluminum with fairly low powered lasers when you understand how to achieve efficient frequency coupling.